I will be taking the FRC to a shop to replace the clutch. I have all the parts, clutch assembly, flywheel and slave cylinder.

My question is.... Do I need to replace the clutch master cylinder assembly as well or can it remain ?


Thanks in advance for your input.

 

You do not need too. It is the one part that is relatively easy to change after the fact. It is probably worth getting it done as they are known to fail eventually. If its a money issue, the money is much better spent on a remote bleed tube today, can replace the master fairly easily later without pulling any of the drivetrain through an access panel in the left front wheel well.

 

Thanks for your prompt reply...
Its not a money issue, I just couldn't figure out why it's recommended when there's nothing wrong with mine. I change out the fluid every time I do an oil change and haven't had any problems with it.

The fact that I DON'T have to change it is cool with me !

 

I'd take a peak at ur torque tube couplers/bearings while the drive train is out

 

LOL.... funny you should mention that.

I already have a new set of couplers and they will be replaced at the time of the clutch swap as well.

 

"Replace it once, replace it right"......words to live by.

 

And just to be clear and I don't start getting all the "hard to answer because you didn't give any info in the type/brand of clutch"....

It a SPEC Stage 2 single disc setup.

 

I hear ya.

 

Looks like your prepared.... give us a heads up when you get it done, how it works and how you like it or not... Thanks

 

Will do.... She goes into the dealership next week. My buddy there says they'll have it all done the same day. Soooo... drop off at 7am and pick up at 6pm.

 

Sweet... will the dealership do the remote bleeder?

 

Not doing a remote bleeder...... Remove / replace / reinstall.

 

No way I would replace the clutch and not put in a remote bleeder.

 

If they don't get it right.... I'll take it back and THEY can take care of the problem.

I'm not worried, the mechanics under him usually take good care of family and friends !




Now that you guys mention it and I've been thinking about it....

would it make the mechanics job a "little" easier ?

 

It makes bleeding a one man job...
I think the best reason is so you can change your clutch fluid regularly and can do a better job of it.



C5 REMOTE CLUTCH BLEEDER KITS

Katech now manufactures remote clutch bleeder kits for the C5 Corvette. Our C6 bleeder has been very popular and customers have commented on the quality over other units so we decided to make one for the C5 Corvette also. The kit fits 1997-2004 Corvettes and allows you to bleed the clutch from under the hood, rather than the very difficult position of under the car. It also makes for a great way of flushing out your clutch hydraulic system and completely exchanging the fluid, prolonging clutch hydraulic system life.

 

Just ordered a remote bleeder...... should be here this weekend.

 

Wise move.

 

The comments and questions on the remote bleeder got me thinking..... and it's not like the price for it was going to break the bank.

 

HERE is something to think about and to make SURE that the dealer does the JOB CORRECTLY.

The MN6/MN12 C5 engine is further balanced after the engine is assembled to remove any minor engine imbalance that will show up in the drive train in the 2000 to 3000 rpm range.

The OLD fly wheel has small holes on the outer rim of the fly wheel and if there was an engine imbalance, small balance weights were installed to remove any small imbalance that was detected.

If you just slap a new flywheel on and don't take the old weights into account, you may end up with a vibration in the 2000-3000 RPM range.

The old fly wheel MUST be matched marked to the crank so that the position of the weights can be put back in the same orientation as the old fly wheel weight were.


IF you use a aftermarket flywheel that does NOT have the holes in the rim, you should have the new flywheel OFF SET BALANCED to match the old fly wheel.

Take the service manager for a pre repair ride and point out that there is NO engine/drivetrain vibrations prior to the repair. Ive seen several STEALERSHIPs blame the vibration on (it was there before the repair).

If your service manager and mechanic has NO CLUE what your talking about,, find a NEW REPAIR SHOP!!!

Just saying..

Bill

 

I didn't see a new PILOT BEARING and THROW OUT BEARING in your parts list.

BC