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Key Fobs Wont Sync

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Old May 8, 2015 | 02:40 PM
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Default Key Fobs Wont Sync

My 99 came with 1 key fob and I havent been able to get it to work, I just bought a used key fob off another 99 and the guy said it worked fine last time he used it. That one wont sync to my car either, I put new batteries in both fobs and went through the training and it does nothing. Any ideas why this is happening? Could both fobs be bad? I did notice that if I lightly shake both fobs I can hear a little rattle. Is this normal or is something broke in them? Thanks
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Old May 8, 2015 | 02:43 PM
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Subscribed !!

I'm having the same problem with my FRC...... curious to see the responses.
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Old May 8, 2015 | 03:40 PM
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I had a local lock-smith guy (supposedly the guy to do this type of work I was told and after was more than happy with), not only program but supply my FOB's (car came with one aftermarket unit only). He charged me $100 each to buy, ship in, program and confirm usage of the FOB's. Same for a 2nd key; $100 to buy and cut a new key using the VIN IIRC.
Now mine's an 04, which are I understand easier to source FOB's. But still food for thought...
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Old May 8, 2015 | 04:48 PM
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C5 fob sync and retrain

Try this:

Press and HOLD the LOCK & UNLOCK buttons down at the same time. Hold them until the horn BEEPS. That procedure SYNCs the FOBs

If that doesn't work, you will need to RE- Program all your FOBS.

You do that using the IPC DIC.

Here is the procedure for RE- PROGRAMING the FOBS. NOTE!! You have to re-program ALL of your FOBS at the same time!




1. Turn ignition on.
2. Turn radio off.

3. Press Driver Information Center(DIC) RESET button to clear all messages.

4. Press OPTIONS button on DIC until display is blank.

5. Press and hold RESET button for 3 seconds.

6. Press OPTIONS button until FOB TRAINING is displayed.

7. Press RESET button to begin programming sequence.

8. Simultaneously press and hold LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on first remote for 13 seconds. Message will appear when remote is programmed. Repeat this step for additional remotes. Again,, You have to program ALL your FOBs during this session or the ones that you didn't program will not work.

9. Turn ignition off and remove keys from ignition.

10. Test remotes.


You will find the Tire Pressure Monitor training sequence in this same screen.

Might check out the link below too...

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...em-solved.html

Last edited by 73Corvette; May 8, 2015 at 04:53 PM.
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Old May 8, 2015 | 07:24 PM
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The rattle is normal. It's a component that senses movement for the "passive" mode.
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Old May 9, 2015 | 09:14 AM
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Thanks for the link, I just checked mine and all my solder joints are solid so I dont think this is the issue?
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Old May 9, 2015 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 73Corvette
C5 fob sync and retrain

Try this:

Press and HOLD the LOCK & UNLOCK buttons down at the same time. Hold them until the horn BEEPS. That procedure SYNCs the FOBs

If that doesn't work, you will need to RE- Program all your FOBS.

You do that using the IPC DIC.

Here is the procedure for RE- PROGRAMING the FOBS. NOTE!! You have to re-program ALL of your FOBS at the same time!




1. Turn ignition on.
2. Turn radio off.

3. Press Driver Information Center(DIC) RESET button to clear all messages.

4. Press OPTIONS button on DIC until display is blank.

5. Press and hold RESET button for 3 seconds.

6. Press OPTIONS button until FOB TRAINING is displayed.

7. Press RESET button to begin programming sequence.

8. Simultaneously press and hold LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on first remote for 13 seconds. Message will appear when remote is programmed. Repeat this step for additional remotes. Again,, You have to program ALL your FOBs during this session or the ones that you didn't program will not work.

9. Turn ignition off and remove keys from ignition.

10. Test remotes.


You will find the Tire Pressure Monitor training sequence in this same screen.

Might check out the link below too...

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...em-solved.html
This is the exact training method that I have been using with no success. I get to the screen where it tells me to hold lock and unlock at the same time, ive held them for 30 seconds plus hoping something will happen and it just sits on that screen...
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Old May 9, 2015 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Check with your local parts stores. Many have a device that can check to see if the FOB's are actually transmitting. If not at the parts store, try a GM dealership. Many have the same type of testing equipment. That would let you possibly rule out the FOB's or directly implicate them.
I actually did bring my original one in to Batteries Plus last week before I purchased the used one and it showed a constant signal even when I want puching any buttons...
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Old May 9, 2015 | 12:38 PM
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On my dash it only says my front driver side works. What I'm trying to do is get my fobs trained then try to train my TPMS and see if I actually need new ones or not.
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Old May 10, 2015 | 04:14 PM
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FYI Guys, I recently asked a similar question and was given THIS RESPONSE which worked like a charm. Thanks to 65GGvert for pointing me in the right direction.

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Old May 10, 2015 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
In post #6 above the OP says he does not believe that solder joints on the FOB's are his problem....

Time will tell.
Whoops, sorry. Hadn't seen you had already posted that.

FYI to the Op, you can't see if the solder joints are bad or not. Not even under quality magnification. Btdt with surface mount stuff in the past, to include my hvac head unit. I'd be hitting them with a solder iron quick just to be sure, but it's your call. Mine works great!
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Old May 10, 2015 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by K-Spaz
Whoops, sorry. Hadn't seen you had already posted that.

FYI to the Op, you can't see if the solder joints are bad or not. Not even under quality magnification. Btdt with surface mount stuff in the past, to include my hvac head unit. I'd be hitting them with a solder iron quick just to be sure, but it's your call. Mine works great!
I thought that thread said you could see them broken, mine look and feel solid. I suppose I could buy a little solder iron and touch them all to see if that fixes it.

Which solder iron are you guys using? I have a Weller pen style but I think it's to big...
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Old May 10, 2015 | 08:45 PM
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If it's just got a copper tip, you can grind the tip finer and just use that. I use a Xytronic I got from Jameco with replaceable tips that are real easy to tin. Their catalog page will show the tip shapes you can buy. I think I used a 1/16" chisel tip for that.

On both my fob and hvac I looked under pretty high magnification (20x loupes w/light) and in both cases I would have told you I was wasting my time. Well, it worked. No saying it'll help yours, but it's certainly worth a shot. You don't even have to add solder, just touch the parts again so it re-wets the pads and you'll be fine. If it ever fails again, then get a tiny bit of solder involved. You have to be careful with that surface mount chip, those pins are on .025 centers, very easy to bridge if you're adding solder. Then it's not fun to remove afterward. Clean your iron tip with a paper towel weted with water (just damp). Wipe off all the black goop so it's clean, then touch it up.

Part of the trouble with these parts is they are not "soldered" perse, they are ultrasonic welded on. After a few 1000 cycles of heat and cooling, the parts break off.
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Old May 10, 2015 | 08:54 PM
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Thanks I'll give it a shot and report back!
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Old May 12, 2015 | 02:21 PM
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I tried the slodering method last night with no luck

Im thinking I might be SOL and need to go with the TPMS conversion from Gene Culley? I started another thread with some questions I have about that route...

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...onversion.html
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Old May 12, 2015 | 03:29 PM
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Took both my remotes to the auto parts store to have them checked... original one is DEAD and the new one I purchased is putting out a signal... BUT it still won't train using either one of the options / methods posted above.

Looks like its time for a NEW CAR !
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Old May 12, 2015 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Vette10R
I tried the slodering method last night with no luck

Im thinking I might be SOL and need to go with the TPMS conversion from Gene Culley? I started another thread with some questions I have about that route...

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...onversion.html
Well at least the soldering didn't cost you anything. Starting to sound like your receiver is dead, in which case the $489 looks like the easiest solution.
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Old May 12, 2015 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by K-Spaz
Well at least the soldering didn't cost you anything. Starting to sound like your receiver is dead, in which case the $489 looks like the easiest solution.
Yeah thats the conclusion I am coming to, eitherway if/when I do purchase and install the new reciever all will be new and working perfectly I hope!! I also dont plan on selling this car, I want to pass it on to my son who is only 9 months old right now so investing in the cheaper sensors might be my best route!
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Old May 12, 2015 | 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Vette10R
Yeah thats the conclusion I am coming to, eitherway if/when I do purchase and install the new reciever all will be new and working perfectly I hope!! I also dont plan on selling this car, I want to pass it on to my son who is only 9 months old right now so investing in the cheaper sensors might be my best route!
Before you give up on soldering, I would go over every accesable solder joint with a soldering iron. my second fob did not work for years, and when the first one died I tried soldering it and that fixed it, so I took the second one and hit the obvious connections and it did not work, so I took it apart again and touched up all of the connections I could get to and it worked. I only costs time so it is a cheap fix if it works.
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Old May 13, 2015 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by bobnjudy
Before you give up on soldering, I would go over every accesable solder joint with a soldering iron. my second fob did not work for years, and when the first one died I tried soldering it and that fixed it, so I took the second one and hit the obvious connections and it did not work, so I took it apart again and touched up all of the connections I could get to and it worked. I only costs time so it is a cheap fix if it works.
At this point I think he'd be better off taking the receiver apart and soldering contacts in there. With nothing talking to that receiver, odds are that's the issue.
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