Hello all, new to the board and my first vette. It's been great so far only a few minor problems so far. I've fixed those thanks to this wonderful forums helpful members but now I'm having clutch pedal issues. It's lost all pressure and won't come back up, I've tried changing the fluid for literally like 4 hours. It worked for a short trip then the same problem occurred again. My question is if the slave cylinder has decided it doesn't wanna work anymore would it be leaking fluid or just stop working? I haven't noticed any leaks but the fluid turns black again as soon as I replace it and pump the clutch. Its a 01 with around 96k miles and no mods. I haven't driven it really hard since it's my first manual. Also any suggestions on mechanics in the Shreveport area would be helpful, thanks for any help.

 

Your doing the Ranger Method I assume?
There is a Modified Version of the Ranger Method...

Here is the pieces I used to make the connection from the syringe to the 1/8 plastic line...bought them at NAPA




The next pic is the MixMizer I picked up at Walmart to suck out the old fluid in the reservoir and do the standard Ranger Method... with the Rubber connector and the hose attached...




The next pic is with the Syringe LOADED the hose inserted in the hole in the bottom of the reservoir and ready to force fluid in the line and hopefully force some fluid out of the slave/line and back to the reservoir... HOLD the SYRINGE with the HOSE end up and make sure you get ALL the air out of the LINE before putting it in the hole in the bottom of the reservoir..





Then gently force the fluid in till it has refilled the reservoir.. ( I left just enough fluid in the bottom of the reservoir to cover the hole)

I have used one complete small bottle of Prestone Dot 4 synthetic fluid doing the Standard Ranger Method prior to starting this Modified Version of it and will continue to do the Standard Procedure UNTIL my fluid is CLEAR...

Here is what my fluid looks like after doing the Standard Method for about a week now and going through a small bottle of the Prestone Dot 4 Synthetic fluid... I can say with NO reservations my clutch operates MUCH better already...




I also Vented my Plastic Flywheel Dust cover on the Oil filter side... it is supposed to help with Clutch Dust and Heat...

Dust cover before drilling vent holes...




After drilling vent holes...





You may need to PULL your clutch pedal up with your toe when doing the Standard Ranger Method till you start seeing some results and the fluid is getting cleaner...

You may also have a BAD Master Cylinder...?

 

Yes I was trying the ranger method, I'll try it with the way you've mentioned. I've went through 2 of the bigger bottles of fluid so far. It kinda seems like it'll start to build up pressure then it'll spew out the black fluid and the pedal goes limp. Any info on checking to see if the master is bad? I'd much rather replace that myself than pay someone to replace the slave. Thanks so much for the info.

 

Don't pump the pedal ALL the way to the stop.... just try going about half way see if that helps...
from what's happening so far I'd say it's more of a Master Cylinder issue than Slave issue... If it's Slave you should see a leak somewhere...

 

Ok I'll give that a try, and thanks again for the the help.

 

What do you mean it spews? You are putting the cap back on the Reservoir BEFORE you start pumping the pedal right?

 

sounds like air might have been introduced into the clutch hydraulics, if that is the case you need to do a proper bleed from the slave to get all the air out and also check to make sure the slave and/or clutch master cylinder is not leaking... if one of those is leaking you very well may be pulling air into the system everytime you release the pedal... you can take the inspection cover off the bottom of the bellhousing to inspect the slave and the drivers front inner fender cover to see the clutch master cylinder

 

With neutron82

Until you get all that contaminated fluid flushed out, you will be wasting a lot of time. If you removed the master and or slave and disassembled them, you will find them FULL is a black nasty slime that contains CLUTCH DUST. It migrates into the system through the seal around the slave shaft.

If it were my car, I would purchase a new master, bench bleed the master, install it and remove the exhaust mid section and the tunnel plate and do a FULL flush and bleed.

That may save you from having to do a COMPLETE clutch replacement.

A master cyl is not expensive and it NOT difficult to change.

Bill

 

that's why asked about the "spewing" he may have pumped a bunch of air in the system if he wasn't putting the cap and pumping the pedal...
Might have gone from BAD to WORSE... and have to do a REAL Bleed

 

air would not draw itself into the system with the clutch master cap off unless the reservoir is dry or very very low, it will just make a mess when the pedal is depressed... if he had an ample amount of fluid in the reservoir when he pressed the pedal then he shouldn't have anything to worry about besides cleaning up the fluid that got spewed all over the car

 

Thanks guys for the help, I guess I could've explained a little better about the spews part. What I was meaning was watching it cloud up after pumping the pedal. I got the syringe and pumped the fluid down in it and it's totally black. I'm assuming the previous owners never cleaned the system. I'm also putting the cap on and filling it to the proper level before pumping the clutch. I might try and replace the master just really hoping it's not the slave. Thanks again for the comments, I'm not sure how to bench bled the master if Mr Bill or anyone could chime in that would help a lot. Thanks guys

 

new gm clutch masters should be pre-bled but if you want to make sure just install it on the car leaving the line disconnected from the clutch line, fill the reservoir with fluid, and press on the fitting at the end of the quick disconnect and hold it open until clear fluid begins to run out... have someone keep an eye on the reservoir to make sure it doesn't run low while you're doing this... I would still do a full bleed from the slave after this just to get all the nasty crud out of there, if you don't it won't be long before the fluid looks like crap again and the new seals on the clutch master you just installed will start to get contaminated

 

Fill the NEW master cyl resivour full of fluid. Inside the female quick disconnect fitting (on the new resivour) there is a button. Press that button in and use a phillips screwdriver to press the master cyl piston full stroke. Before you release the piston,,, release the button in the QD Fitting to prevent air from getting back in the line. Repeat until you have NO air in the master and line.

Then its ready to install and connect into the rest of the system.

BC

 

Thanks guys for kicking in here.... good luck OP let us know how you get things figured out...

 

Ok I'm gonna try and keep cleaning the dust out for awhile and probably try the master tomorrow unless the rain holds off today. I'm having withdraws from not being able to drive this bucket. Thanks again guys for all the help.

 

Will do 73 and thank you for your help also.

 

Well after a few straight weeks of rain and slight frustrations with the quick disconnect got the new master cylinder on and it's working again. Thanks again guys for the help.

 

glad you got the car going... they should call it a "not so quick disconnect"

 

Yeah I tried a lot of the methods discussed on here trying to get the disconnect undone what actually did work and it took about 2 mins, I found the mounting piece off a old bicycle fork and used a saw to open it up a little more to where it'd fit barely around the disconnect and it popped free. Hopefully that can help someone eles in the future trying to get it undone.

 

IF,,, you actually press the male and female clutch line quick disconnect fittings together before you try to press in on the plastic ring, it makes the release a LOT easier! Once the white plastic release ring is fully depressed into the fitting, the male fittings will just pull apart from the female fitting.

I also usually spray WD-40 on the white plastic ring prior to working on it. I found a large open end wrench that would fit around the male fitting and properly contact the white ring. Work fantastic!

Bill