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I have everything installed, bled the system, and got the clutch pedal adjusted far enough out to allow for a smooth shift into 1st. I then began conducting the "rev test" on jack stands and adjusting the pedal out if the rear wheels moved at about 6k. I have now adjusted the pedal out to the point that it is even with the brake, and before the last time I adjusted the turnbuckle (2 turns), the wheels were STILL spinning an inch or two during the rev test. I shut her down because I had been doing this for a while and the tunnel (and I assume the clutch) were getting pretty hot (plus it was over a hundred degrees in the garage) but I want to get an idea what others have experienced before I keep messing with it. I don't want to adjust excessive travel into my setup and blow the slave, and from reviews I had read before the installation, I thought that the clutch pedal would end up below the brake pedal once everything was adjusted.
My tick engages really close to the top of the throw. Before I replaced the MC to SC line(line leaked) the pedal engaged right off the floor. Not sure if that helps but those are the data points
My tick engages really close to the top of the throw. Before I replaced the MC to SC line(line leaked) the pedal engaged right off the floor. Not sure if that helps but those are the data points
Yeah, I've read that the engagement is quite short, but how far up did you have to adjust the pedal? That's my question... I've got it near level with the brake pedal and it still fails the rev test.
So I haven't done a rev test, but it disengages really quickly. The pedal can be halfway to the floor and be completely disengaged. This is all by feel on level ground of course
I dont thin you will get 100% NO WHEEL MOVEMENT on a brand new set up. Just adjust the clutch throw out adjustment so theres NO rear wheel DRIVE and then increase it a turn. Thats what I did. No issues using that procedure..
I dont thin you will get 100% NO WHEEL MOVEMENT on a brand new set up. Just adjust the clutch throw out adjustment so theres NO rear wheel DRIVE and then increase it a turn. Thats what I did. No issues using that procedure..
BC
What exactly do you mean by "no rear wheel drive"?
My rear wheels moved a little when it was properly adjusted but, I could stop them both and hold them easily by hand.
Agreed. I'd try to put the car on the ground, put the car in gear, depress the clutch and give it a good 5k rpm rev. If it doesnt lurch forward a few inches under weight...the clutch is disengaged and should be ready to rip some gears.
My rear wheels moved a little when it was properly adjusted but, I could stop them both and hold them easily by hand.
Originally Posted by Cheesecake 07
Agreed. I'd try to put the car on the ground, put the car in gear, depress the clutch and give it a good 5k rpm rev. If it doesnt lurch forward a few inches under weight...the clutch is disengaged and should be ready to rip some gears.
That's what I thought you meant
I'll back it down a bunch of turns and start over on the ground
Thanks, gentlemen
Where did your clutch pedals end up in relation to the brake once you guys had everything properly adjusted?
I agree, you will likely get wheel movement in the air even in neutral. Just enough friction to get stuff moving. I never tried on my vette cause i proved it to myself years ago in my camaro.
Clutch pedal adjustment is going to be clutch relative. I have heard of people having issues with the cruise switch. Mine all just fits. I think the cruise switch is bottomed out and the pedal all the way up left about 1/8"-3/16" of the switch from being bottomed out. If you are on a stock, probably even most singles disk, clutch it should in theory be lower as less throw should be necessary, then a twin.
I have the 7/8" tilton, if you have the 13/16" one it will be significantly higher from what i have read, as its much closer in volume to the stock unit. Maybe tick only sells the 7/8" one, i don't recall.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
after I installed my twin disc I adjusted the tick master for the new clutch as opposed to the old one and the pedal ended up about 1.5" below the brake pedal and it passed the rev test and worked fine driving normally but when I would really get on it I was getting locked out of the 2-3 and 3-4 shift... I was thinking there might have been an issue with the clutch but after talking to Martin at tick he told me to adjust the pedal to about 1/2" below the brake pedal, well after that it shifted great no more issues... every car and clutch setup is going to be different so just mess around with it until you get it where you want
I agree, you will likely get wheel movement in the air even in neutral. Just enough friction to get stuff moving. I never tried on my vette cause i proved it to myself years ago in my camaro.
Clutch pedal adjustment is going to be clutch relative. I have heard of people having issues with the cruise switch. Mine all just fits. I think the cruise switch is bottomed out and the pedal all the way up left about 1/8"-3/16" of the switch from being bottomed out. If you are on a stock, probably even most singles disk, clutch it should in theory be lower as less throw should be necessary, then a twin.
I have the 7/8" tilton, if you have the 13/16" one it will be significantly higher from what i have read, as its much closer in volume to the stock unit. Maybe tick only sells the 7/8" one, i don't recall.
Yeah, I knew it would vary clutch to clutch, I was just trying to get a ballpark idea
My new clutch is a twin-disc Monster LT1-S, which is the OEM C7 unit with a different (not dual-mass) flywheel for the C5
I'm going to finish the suspension and oil change right now, then adjust it in a few turns and take it for a drive