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sounds like a vacuum leak to me. go back through the schematic that was provided in the first post and also make sure all your other hoses are plugged in. this may require pulling the intake covers off to see everything. (they just pull off)
also, someone may have not installed your throttle body or intake properly and you could be leaking vacuum from there.
I went back to check for a vacuum leak, this time I tried spraying everything with carb cleaner. I did not notice any change in idle. I spray every rubber hose as well as around the intake manifold, the TB, and the MAF. I read somewhere that I should disconnect the throttle sensor first. I disconnected it, and started the car. It idled at 1000 rpm, then before I could spray any lines the rpm slowly climbed to 1500-1600, and idled there. So I shut it down and reconnected. I also added fuel injection cleaner to the tank. At this point I don't think I am going to find the issue, so I think a trip to the local hot rod shop is in order.
NO! The tune does NOT evaporate when the battery dies.. Its FLASHED into the PCM.. The ONLY way to change it is to reflash the PCM with tuning software.
NO! The tune does NOT evaporate when the battery dies.. Its FLASHED into the PCM.. The ONLY way to change it is to reflash the PCM with tuning software.
BC
Thanks, I don't know that it was ever tuned to begin with. I was just throwing it out there.
I talked to a reputable local shop in Killeen, tx. Called Sunshine performance. They said that it sounded like my tube was a little off, and they would inspect the car, and then tune it. Dyno tune costing $500.
WOW!! Its your cash.. A TUNE just doesnt GO OFF!!!
If the car has ISSUES and the shop tunes it,,, It will just cover up the issues and still not run 100%
If it were MY CAR,, I would have them test and make sure that the O2 Sensors were not fowled and working correctly. IF NOT,,, before you spend that much cash for a new tune,, CHANGE THE OXYGEN SENSORS!!!
....If it were MY CAR,, I would have them test and make sure that the O2 Sensors were not fowled and working correctly.....
Bill
Bill's right.
I once had some O2 sensors that got 'fowled' when I sucked a bird in through the air intake. <g>
All kidding aside, Bill's giving you some eminently logical advice.
Before they put it on the dyno they went over the entire engine, and drivetrain. I ask about O2 sensors when I dropped it off, and he said that they would be able to tell if it's an O2 sensor, and any problem they find they will let me know about before they start adjusting the tune. About 10 minutes ago, he called and said the car has something's that need attention like a small oil leak, but that it definitely wasn't tuned correctly, and the first dyno test put 351rwhp, and he would be able to get more out of it. I will update everyone when I get the car back. I don't think he would adjust the tune to hide issues when finding issues would possibly lead to more money for the shop, but maybe. I also want to say thanks to everyone that has taken time to help troubleshoot. Especially Bill.
Last edited by Corvette_chris04; Jun 11, 2015 at 06:11 PM.
As I mentioned above, getting a "cold start" tune correct in a cammed A4 is iterative, and can be a pain in the *** to get correct. It's only "cold" the first time or two you start it. Then you have to wait. Ideally, you'l need to leave the car there a few days. Good luck. I hope they can sort it out for you.
Good news is 372 rwhp. The bad news is they told me whoever installed the cam did a horrible job with the seals, and I need to get them fixed, as well as a water pump leak. Also I need new plugs and wires. Max mph they hit was 192.