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AIR Pump good or NO good

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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 04:37 PM
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Default AIR Pump good or NO good

I have a 20002 Vette. I continue to get the P0410 code. I have read all I can about the code and checked most of the parts. The Air Pump comes on when engine is cold. When I remove the hose by the alternator, I feel air coming out when I put my thumb over the hose. If I do not cover the hose there is no air coming out. Should there be a strong blast of air going to the exhaust while the pump is running without my thumb on the hose?
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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 01:25 AM
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It's only on when cold, and I can't imagine the air flow is a lot.
That said it does have to overcome the pressure of the engine, it is forcing air into the exhaust... if nobody else answers better I could try and hook up 12V to mine in my shop to see how much air it pushes.
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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by grantv
It's only on when cold, and I can't imagine the air flow is a lot.
That said it does have to overcome the pressure of the engine, it is forcing air into the exhaust... if nobody else answers better I could try and hook up 12V to mine in my shop to see how much air it pushes.
Thanks, I will see if I get any other reply's. I appreciate the response.
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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 09:53 AM
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No Idea. But I have a good one you can have off my car for $30 shipped if yours is bad.
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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 10:13 AM
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YES!! When the engine is started from cold iron, it should run and pump air for about 90 sec. However,,,,, you have to understand that there STUFF between the hose that you are testing and the pump that may be causing your isuues.

Examine the VACUUM operated valve on the outlet of the pump that MUST open to allow air out. If that valve is not fully open because the vacuum line or the solenoid valve in the passengers fender well is not working properly, the valve may not be fully opening.

The flow of air out of the pump is pretty substantial when its working correctly.

Here is the PUMP and that vacuum operated outlet valve:

PUMP:



OUTLET CONTROL VALVE:




Also check the INLET hose and the pump inlet and make sure that it isn't damaged or clogged.
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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 11:01 AM
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Thanks for the info and pictures. I will check the hoses and control valve.
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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
YES!! When the engine is started from cold iron, it should run and pump air for about 90 sec. However,,,,, you have to understand that there STUFF between the hose that you are testing and the pump that may be causing your isuues.

Examine the VACUUM operated valve on the outlet of the pump that MUST open to allow air out. If that valve is not fully open because the vacuum line or the solenoid valve in the passengers fender well is not working properly, the valve may not be fully opening.

The flow of air out of the pump is pretty substantial when its working correctly.

Here is the PUMP and that vacuum operated outlet valve:

PUMP:



OUTLET CONTROL VALVE:




Also check the INLET hose and the pump inlet and make sure that it isn't damaged or clogged.
Your replies are always illustrative and helpful, thanks Bill!
Side question; where does the vacuum line go to at the top side? I blocked mine off down below when I removed my AIR pump, but it'd be nice to block it off up top at the engine instead just for some tiny peace of mind...
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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 12:12 PM
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You have to block it off at the Vacuum Canister /Reservoir in the passengers front wheel well:



Block it off where it comes off the vacuum line tree for the line on the solenoid above the PCM..
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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 01:39 PM
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Or you can just remove it all together for weight savings. A tuner can make the CEL go away im sure.
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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
You have to block it off at the Vacuum Canister /Reservoir in the passengers front wheel well:



Block it off where it comes off the vacuum line tree for the line on the solenoid above the PCM..
Fantastic, thanks Bill!
Too bad I didn't spend a tiny bit of extra time when I was finishing my winter header install. It was ~mid/late-March, roads were clean, I was getting itchy to drive it. Oh well, good project for some time off next weekend.
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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnny wangwang
Or you can just remove it all together for weight savings. A tuner can make the CEL go away im sure.
I have removed it completely (entire AIR system) and had it tuned out. It's just now I have a plugged vacuum line ending where the AIR pump was. I'd rather trace it back as far as possible, just being retentive... unlike most Corvette owners, no?
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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 05:17 PM
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I have 2001 working pump, mounting bracket, and all hoses.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1588486656

Last edited by Joshboody; Jun 24, 2015 at 05:30 PM.
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Old Jun 25, 2015 | 10:39 AM
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I checked the Pump, Control Valve, and Solenoid and all are working. I checked the air lines and they are clean. I have no vacuum getting from intake manifold to the Solenoid. I believe the hose connecting these two is disconnected or broken. How do I get to the Vacuum Canister to see if this hose is connected. Is it by the solenoid (Passenger wheel well)? Thanks for all your help.
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Old Jun 25, 2015 | 11:06 AM
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Remove the front passengers wheel. Back of the wheel well will be an access panel (there is also one in the drivers side (just saying) ) Remove that access panel and you will see the PCM, TAC Module and the vacuum canister and lines.



BC
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Old Jun 25, 2015 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Remove the front passengers wheel. Back of the wheel well will be an access panel (there is also one in the drivers side (just saying) ) Remove that access panel and you will see the PCM, TAC Module and the vacuum canister and lines.



BC
Great, thanks.
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Old Jun 25, 2015 | 02:22 PM
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Default Found the problem

Originally Posted by gmerrill
Great, thanks.
OK, I finally found the problem. The "Inside Car" hose is broken in two and the "Solenoid" hose is cracked. I tried to pull the Solenoid hose off the Plastic T-connecter and od course broke the plastic tip off. So, my next project is to find a T-connector for the hoses and then try to figure out how to repair the hose going to the inside of the car (it broke in the middle so I can't stretch it.

Thanks for all your help. I wanted to give an update so others my see the cause of my P0410 code.
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