August 01, 2015; Saturday

My 2000 C5 suddenly started displaying erroneous messages about my tires when there is nothing whatsoever wrong with any of my tires. There are two categories of false messages: one about tire pressure and one accusing my car of having a flat tire.

The false tire pressure messages are about all 4 tires but most often about the right front tire. They periodically state that the pressure is too high. It's happened in single-digit winter weather as well as triple-digit summer weather. This happens often and started 6 months ago in January. My car has 51k mileage.

The flat tire message only involves the right front tire and occurred only one day: yesterday for the first time. Then it warned me that the handling might be decreased.

What causes these false readouts and what should I do? It seems to be crazy sensors. Also, I assume that if an actual defect occurred they wouldn't be detected because the computer is too busy going crazy and fantasizing.

Thank you, Everyone.

 

Your post is so hard to read with that bright bold large blue font that I can't even try to answer you. Can you change it to regular size, black print, and start over?

 

August 01, 2015; Saturday

My 2000 C5 suddenly started displaying erroneous messages about my tires when there is nothing whatsoever wrong with any of my tires. There are two categories of false messages: one about tire pressure and one accusing my car of having a flat tire.

The false tire pressure messages are about all 4 tires but most often about the right front tire. They periodically state that the pressure is too high. It's happened in single-digit winter weather as well as triple-digit summer weather. This happens often and started 6 months ago in january. My car has 51k mileage.

The flat tire message only involves the right front tire and occurred only one day: yesterday for the first time. Then it warned me that the handling might be decreased.

What causes these false readouts and what should i do? It seems to be crazy sensors. Also, i assume that if an actual defect occurred they wouldn't be detected because the computer is too busy going crazy and fantasizing.

Thank you, Everyone

 

Perhaps your sensors are starting to go bad. If they are the original ones, they are at least 15 years old.

 

Your DIC doesn't tell you when the batteries are going bad in your TPMS, so it gets confused and tells you other things... at least it doesn't give you a CEL or some other false codes... welcome to madness.
Wait till your car battery goes bad......you ain't seen crazy.

 

Certainly sounds like the sensors are the issue. My sensor batteries are old and I get random reading like you describe.

If it makes you feel better you can pull the dash DTC codes and verify nothing is amiss with the RFA.


Mr. Sam

 

What tire pressure do you measure with a gauge on your four tires?

 

The tire pressure & FOB information originates from signals sent out from the TPS Transmitters and FOB Transmitter. The Remote Function Actuator receives that data and provides it to the BCM via a SERIAL DATA wire.

When you have the issue, do the FOBs work properly??

With ALL TPS being in error (false data) I doubt that the sensors are at fault (although the TPS batteries are somewhere near the end of there useful life)

That being said,, When you have bad data being displayed, and get the messages in the DIC,, Press RESET to clear the messages and pull up the DTC reading routine and read and post all the DTCs and messages that are there.

NOTE.. Its probably a good idea to clear ALL the old DTCs prior to doing this procedure so that you don't have a ton of old confusing data to record.

IMPORTANT! When you get the false data displayed, DO NOT turn the ignition OFF. Read and post the DTC data in that ignition ON cycle.

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes



The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:

1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
NOTE! You can read the DTCs with the engine running and or driving down the road but it can distract you. BE careful! Some DTCs clear themselves when you turn the ignition OFF!
I always read my DTCs prior to turning OFF the ignition switch. If you have any messages on the DIC,, PRESS RESET until they are gone!

2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect.)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.


Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, "C" or "H". A current C code indicates a malfunction is present and active in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except English/Metric (E/M). Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press and hold the RESET button To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5. You can GOOGLE the DTC and also find information on it.




Here is very good site that explains the DTCs:


http://www.corvette-web-central.com/C5DTCcode.html


http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php



Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!