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Well Saturday night I had a good old "let's miss 3rd gear party" by myself and hurt the car LOL DAMMIT!!!!
Got it towed back home on a roll back for 80 bucks
So here's what it does.
Engine is fine, start car, it will run through gears while I have clutch pushed in, will even move enough to pull in my drive but the second I let the clutch all the way out it sounds like a baseball is bouncing around in the clutch area
Push it back in, goes away
Torque tube couplers is my best hopefull scenario
Has a new spec super twin in it that I wouldn't mind changing while in there for driveability around town (it was installed by prev owner) has 2000 miles on it
Worse case is tranny, input shaft etcetc
I'll be getting started on it tonight and keeping everyone posted that cares or wants to help
Side note --anyone who has pointers to ease the teardown process is welcome to chime in
when you say you missed third gear, do you mean you clutched out early and got the transmission buzz/jolt, or you hit the wrong gear and over-revved?
Clutched out early is exactly what I can remember , hit Rev limiter but only for a split second and pushed the clutch back in. Shifted to 4th and coasted
Engine seems totally fine
Was going to try and limp it home since it can move under its own power but had a bad feeling that it would make a 300 dollar probably turn into a 3000 probably real quick lol
I just walked in the door so I'm getting thing in order to tear apart now
If it were ME,,, I would drop the Trans/differential as a unit,, then remove the TT. Take the TT apart and YEP, I bet you blew a coupler or twisted the Prop Shaft.
If the TT, couplers, bearing and input/output shafts look good, separate the rear end and trans and do your inspections.
Before you disassemble the drive train,, put the trans in N, jack up one rear wheel and see if you can rotate it against the other wheel (though the limited slip clutches). You should feel 50-60 ft/lbs of force to break it free and rotate that free wheel. Do the same for the other wheel.
ok thanks for the direction bill, i was just looking at pics to start the cradle dropping process. seems thats going to be the best idea, but doing it without a lift is going to be a lot of FUN lol
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Fingers crossed for ya man! Hope it's just couplers.
P.S. I see you have the cradle already out, hopefully you used hand tools to remove the 4 cradle nuts. Be SURE to NOT use any air tools/impact gun when reinstalling. HAND TOOLS ONLY on them.
Fingers crossed for ya man! Hope it's just couplers.
P.S. I see you have the cradle already out, hopefully you used hand tools to remove the 4 cradle nuts. Be SURE to NOT use any air tools/impact gun when reinstalling. HAND TOOLS ONLY on them.
^^^gotcha, thanks for the heads up
the one tool i dont have is a good enough set of snap ring pliers, guess its tomorrow for coupler inspection
pulled torque tube, input shaft seems to have a slight SLIGHT wobble
second, should i be able to free spin the tranny using my hand with it in neutral?
You have ALREADY discovered an issue. There should be ZERO TT input or output shaft wobble or looseness! Hold the opposite end of the TT shaft and try to rotate the other end. See if there is any detectable SLOP. There should NOT be any!!!
YES! You should easily be able to turn the input shaft of the trans when in N..
RECOMMENDATION! When you reinstall the drive train, install the TT and then install the TRANS/DIFF on to the TT.
NOTE!!! If the TT has a damaged input shaft bearing,, I would CHANGE the pilot bearing for sure!!!
You have ALREADY discovered an issue. There should be ZERO TT input or output shaft wobble or looseness! Hold the opposite end of the TT shaft and try to rotate the other end. See if there is any detectable SLOP. There should NOT be any!!!
YES! You should easily be able to turn the input shaft of the trans when in N..
RECOMMENDATION! When you reinstall the drive train, install the TT and then install the TRANS/DIFF on to the TT.
NOTE!!! If the TT has a damaged input shaft bearing,, I would CHANGE the pilot bearing for sure!!!
got it apart, and the couplers are in GREAT shape. ALTHOUGH 3-4 of those torx bolts were hand tight, so considerably loose in that aspect.
there is something going on with the tranny. I just know there is. if I move the axles I can move the input shaft to the tranny with my hand, but about every 2-3 turns, there is a abrupt stop and it hangs in that spot until I move the axles again, then it will move.
SO
talked to Jeremy @ RPM today
going to have TT inspected and new couplers installed
teardown the tranny and fix anything wrong and put bronze keys, and upgraded forks, and anything else I can afford to do while its apart, and since the diff is already out, going to go 4:10 and c6z shafts just to say I did something that I WANTED to do
Now that all of this is going on I'm debating on whether or not to put a more street friendly clutch in the car what would you guys recommend for 6-700hp
The clutch was installed by the previous owner the receipts show that it was installed in February of this year so there's about 2 thousand miles on it
What would you guys recommend or have had good luck with for some aggressive driving and street driving
For the giant snap ring I ended up grinding down the tips of an old pair of needle nose pliers, worked great lol
(Longer set not the standard size for more leverage )