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EBCM trouble, hard time finding electrical grounds
Hi folks,
So I am getting the dreaded 'service abs, service tcm, service active handling' message, as well as code 1214H.
Rather than deal with a costly control module fix, I thought I would check for corrosion on the electrical grounds, G103 and G108, which from what I read are the grounds associated with the EBCM.
These two grounds however are tough to get to. G103 is visible, but its screw is a bit too long to get a socket onto, and yet when i try a long socket, i cannot get it on either due to clearance issues.
As for G108, from the diagrams, it appears to be near the battery, but I cannot find it. Is it under the battery? Do I need to remove the battery?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by 2001 C5ster; Aug 23, 2015 at 09:13 AM.
G103 is difficult to get to. I was able to use a ratcheting box wrench.
G108 may be accessible without removing the battery but not with hands as big as mine. I would remove it.
More likely the C1214 is because of the EBCM main power relay either having a cold solder joint or being fried. There is a DIY on repairing that. Here is a link:
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
More likely the C1214 is because of the EBCM main power relay either having a cold solder joint or being fried. There is a DIY on repairing that. Here is a link:
If the grounds are good make sure you have sufficient voltage going to the EBCM. If that is OK then the problem is probably the EBCM relay. However, that may be a symptom not a cause. Once you get the EBCM out check the resistance between the BPMV motor circuit and the BPMV case. If you get a reading less than infinity you will need a new BPMV along with a repaired or new EBCM.
Many thanks to all who have posted about this issue. I have a 2000 C5, and I have read many threads about the dreaded scenario starting with rough road and RR tracks causing this periodically, then it gradually worsens to the point where it becomes a full time issue. If that is your case I have to say start with the ignition switch. My son the mechanic has been hounding me for years about all of the stuff on my key chain telling me it would cause the ignition switch to fail...He was absolutely right, IT DID, it was failing for years.The problem gradually got worse over the years until it was unbearable. Think about it when you get the warning after crossing RR tracks, notice your keys bouncing around, the weight of the junk on your key chain is what causes the intermittent problem which causes the contacts to burn. I removed the Ign. switch and 3 sets of contacts were burnt black. At this point you can replace the ign switch, or do what I did, clean the contacts with some 2000 grit sand paper, and some tuner cleaner or alcohol. Immediate fix no more lights or codes.
Unfortunately I tried this after removing EBCM and finding it looked pristine, although the 4 torx head screws were only finger tight. Lucky because there are no EBCM's available from the GM and used ones on ebay were fetching $1500.
EASY FIX IF YOU START WITH THE IGNITION SWITCH.
Mine just started doing this yesterday as well. Came on after a carwash, so I'm leaning towards the grounds being the issue. Will be following this thread and will post my finding as well.
Grounds.... Its easy once you realize that almost ALL of the chassis grounds are MIRROR IMMAGES of each other. If you find a chassis ground on one side of the frame, there will be another one just like it on the other side of the frame.
The only exemption is G-107 and G-106 as they don't mirror image. G-402 Stud will be present on all C5s BUt, will ONLY have a wire connection on 97 & early 98 rear EBTCM cars.
The SPLICE PACKS (SP-XXX) can be a little difficult to locate.
Check the EBTCM Fuses to chassis ground and make sure that you are receiving FULL battery voltage to each fuse. Especially the fuse powered by the ignition switch.
G103 is difficult to get to. I was able to use a ratcheting box wrench.
G108 may be accessible without removing the battery but not with hands as big as mine. I would remove it.
More likely the C1214 is because of the EBCM main power relay either having a cold solder joint or being fried. There is a DIY on repairing that. Here is a link:
I am also trying to determine the location of G103 on my 03 in relation to an ECBM C1214 DTC issue. There is a ground point on the frame rail directly to the driver's left of the ECBM, but I want to confirm that this is the one before disassembling. I looked aft of that point on the frame rail but could see no other grounds except a ground strap. Thanks
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Originally Posted by Dean Gladney
I am also trying to determine the location of G103 on my 03 in relation to an ECBM C1214 DTC issue. There is a ground point on the frame rail directly to the driver's left of the ECBM, but I want to confirm that this is the one before disassembling. I looked aft of that point on the frame rail but could see no other grounds except a ground strap. Thanks