Transmission not upshifting
I've got an 2004 with A4 trans. With the car in drive, it pulls off normally but it won't change gears, just revs up. If I put it in 1st or 2nd and shift manually, it changes every time. I don't know what the hell it could be. I also have service traction control on dic panel, if that helps. I've noticed every since I had the car that there's a noticeable hesitation between reverse and drive and vice-versa. Anybody got a possible solution. Thanks in advance for any help.
I've got an 2004 with A4 trans. With the car in drive, it pulls off normally but it won't change gears, just revs up. If I put it in 1st or 2nd and shift manually, it changes every time. I don't know what the hell it could be. I also have service traction control on dic panel, if that helps. I've noticed every since I had the car that there's a noticeable hesitation between reverse and drive and vice-versa. Anybody got a possible solution. Thanks in advance for any help.
You have to put it on a lift, start the engine, shift in to each gear (holding the brake), then shift in to park. When the transmission oil hits 85 degrees, get under the car and remove the bolt on the driver's side of the transmission. Pump in 1/2 a quart of transmission fluid in (stop if it overflows), then put the bolt back in.
Then drive the car. Next day, do another 1/2 quart. Keep doing this until it is full and overflows.
Yes it is a bitch. You have to put the bolt back in before the transmission fluid gets to 125 degrees. You have about 5 minutes.
I put in 3 quarts and now the transmission shifts smoothly and correctly. I had a leak at the radiator - a worn out gasket on the oil line fitting. So be sure to look for a leak - you probably have one.
Good luck....
You have to put it on a lift, start the engine, shift in to each gear (holding the brake), then shift in to park. When the transmission oil hits 85 degrees, get under the car and remove the bolt on the driver's side of the transmission. Pump in 1/2 a quart of transmission fluid in (stop if it overflows), then put the bolt back in.
Then drive the car. Next day, do another 1/2 quart. Keep doing this until it is full and overflows.
Yes it is a bitch. You have to put the bolt back in before the transmission fluid gets to 125 degrees. You have about 5 minutes.
I put in 3 quarts and now the transmission shifts smoothly and correctly. I had a leak at the radiator - a worn out gasket on the oil line fitting. So be sure to look for a leak - you probably have one.
Good luck....
1. Start the engine and allow the engine to idle until the transmission fluid temperature, as displayed on the DIC, is between 86 degrees F and 122 degrees F. (104 degrees F is EXACTLY in the middle of the recommended temperature range for checking the fluid level.)
2. Depress the brake pedal and move the shift lever through the gear ranges, pausing a few seconds in each range. Return the shift lever to the PARK position.
3. If necessary, raise the vehicle high enough to gain clearance to the transmission fill plug. The fill plug is located on the LEFT SIDE of the transmission pan. The vehicle must remain in a LEVEL position when raised.
Caution: The engine must be running when the transmission fill plug is removed, or excessive fluid loss will occur. Since the actual fluid level is unknown, stand clear when removing the fill plug. Do not turn the engine off with the fill plug removed, as you can be injured by hot transmission fluid being expelled out of the oil fill opening.
4. If needed, add automatic transmission fluid until the fluid starts to drain from the threaded plug hole. Be sure to replace the fill plug BEFORE turning off the engine.
Last edited by 73Corvette; Sep 16, 2015 at 08:04 AM.





You have to put it on a lift, start the engine, shift in to each gear (holding the brake), then shift in to park. When the transmission oil hits 85 degrees, get under the car and remove the bolt on the driver's side of the transmission. Pump in 1/2 a quart of transmission fluid in (stop if it overflows), then put the bolt back in.
Then drive the car. Next day, do another 1/2 quart. Keep doing this until it is full and overflows.
Yes it is a bitch. You have to put the bolt back in before the transmission fluid gets to 125 degrees. You have about 5 minutes.
I put in 3 quarts and now the transmission shifts smoothly and correctly. I had a leak at the radiator - a worn out gasket on the oil line fitting. So be sure to look for a leak - you probably have one.
Good luck....
When the engine is NOT running the transmission lets some of the fluid in the filter TC and valve body drain back into the pan. IF,,,,,,,,,,,,, you pull the fill plug with the engine NOT RUNNING, that extra fluid will GUSH out of the fill port!


Fill it correctly or risk having to spend lots of $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ later down the road.
NOTE! Is your C5 Stock/ Modified and or has it ever had the PCM tuned??
Here is a You Tube Vid that explains some of the problems encountered with the 4L60E
Here is a TABLE that explains what can cause a specific problem with a stock 4L60E
http://www.twincharlotte.com/transmi...r-Charlotte-NC
You stated that it shifts normally in 1st, & 2nd gear. What does it do when it tries to shift to 3rd gear????????????????????
Does it rev up like it went to neutral OR does it just refuse to go to third gear??????
Here's a U tube vid that you should check out. IF, it runs and shifts normally in 1st & 2nd,, I doubt that its low on fluid BUT,,, it ALWAYS a good procedure to insure that your A4 has the PROPER fluid level.
IF,,, it just will not shift to third gear, well,,, that another issue all together.
When the engine is NOT running the transmission lets some of the fluid in the filter TC and valve body drain back into the pan. IF,,,,,,,,,,,,, you pull the fill plug with the engine NOT RUNNING, that extra fluid will GUSH out of the fill port!


Fill it correctly or risk having to spend lots of $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ later down the road.
If you wanted to have more fun, fill it until it's full and then with the TC off and the rear of the car solidly supported with the wheels off the ground run it through the gears once before checking the level again. Normally, you only have to do this after a rebuild but if it's starving for oil some of the passages and pistons may have air in them.
You could add the 1/2 quart, get in the car and run through the shift positions, then get back down under the car, remove the bolt and add another 1/2. The problem is the fluid heats up and you run out of time.
So I just added a 1/2 quart every morning for several days. When it finally overflowed, I quit.
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I actually wouldn't even care about the temperature if it isn't at the full level yet because that means there is still room to add more. Having it too hot when filling just means it'll likely need more added once it cools off.







