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I finally spoke with Hurst and they dont sell a spring kit and they cant tell me what size or spring rate they are? They told me to bring the good one to a hardware store and try to match it up. I kind of find that odd that they dont know what size or rate the springs are but nonetheless I will do what they say and go from there. I dont think the springs are affecting my shifting into first and reverse but I will start here then move onto the adjustment...
I didn't take my Hurst shifter apart, but I did adjust it by feel. I just loosened the mount bolts and the shaft clamp, then centered the shaft bolt by feel. I tightened the shaft bolt first then the mount bolts. Shifted really smooth after that, no more popping out from first.
Yeah im going to get some springs after work today and reassemble the shifter and try the adjustment. Hopefully thats all it needs!
When you adjust it do you losen all 3 torx bolts then move it around till the shifter feels good then tighten the bolts? The videos I have seen still dont make a ton of sense to me and all 3 of the torx bolts are tight right now so it shouldnt be from play in that area...
Yes all 3 torx mount bolts and the torx pinch bolt on the shaft just aft of the shifter. I centered the cutout for the bolt in the shaft with the bolt that clinches down on it. Tightened it first then the 3 shifter mount bolts
You secure the body of the shifter to the shifter box, with the four bolts. (shifter assembled) With the shifter secured, and the stick freely moving left and right, through the neutral gate, at his point you adjust the shifter shafts, so the adjustment pin will freely slip into the two alignment holes. Adjust as necessary. Tighten the torx head bolt on the shift rod clamp.
At this point, you can adjust the gear stop screws, then the screws that apply the tension to the shift lever.
The 2 bolts holding the shifter to the torque tube adjust the fore/aft movement while the pinch bolt at the back of the shifter adjusts the side to side movement. Only adjust one direction at a time.
I have no idea what to do with the stop or spring bolts in that shifter. I guess the stop bolts you'd hold it fully in gear and then put the stop bolt just to the shifter. In reality, the transmission has internal stops so they're not even needed.
Ok I got some springs from the hardware store and reassembled the shifter. The springs are not an exact match but it's as close as I could get for now.
Now I ran into a new issue which can hopefully be solved easily! With the shifter out of the car it moves freely and smooth through all the gears including reverse. With the shifter installed in the car it seems to go through all the gears just fine except reverse. I took a couple close up pictures of the shifter pushed all the way to the left and all the way to the right and you can see the difference in the gap. When pushed to the left it comes very close to the base, when pushed to the right there is a larger gap. Only thing I tried last night was loosening the torx bolt connecting the shifter to the rod and adjusting a little but that didn't seem to do anything. What else can I try?
I want to ad that I did all this with the car off and have not driven it yet. Possibly the shifter will adjust itself when it's running to move closer to the base? My 1 year old was sleeping and the wife would kill me if I started the car and woke him
The purpose of the Neutral Pin is to get the shifter centered in the box so when you tighten the clamp on the shaft it's in the nearest to center of neutral position... You can loosen the clamp and roll the shifter to one side or the other to get more or less space from center... you may just have to keep playing with it to get it to center and/or where it will go easily into reverse as well as 5th and 6th.
Looks like you need to push your shifter to the passenger side a tiny bit with the clamp loose, then tighten it, so when you move it back to shift to 1st or reverse you are rolling the shifter shaft more towards the drivers side. Your just running out of room hitting the side of the top of the shifter box...
Last edited by 73Corvette; Oct 1, 2015 at 01:14 PM.
The stick should be straight up and down when in neutral in the 3-4 gate. Get that right and quit worrying about how much clearance you seem to have.
On your 99, you can't easily move the shifter to reverse without at least the key on and possibly the engine has to be running.
Heck that's true with our 04 also... sometimes you even have to gently rock it to get to reverse...I think it's just the nature of the beast or beastess...
Something was changed over the years. When the reverse lockout solenoid coil or it's unplugged or the key is off on later year C5's the reverse lockout is lost and reverse can easily be selected at any time.
If I turn the key off or disconnect the solenoid on my 98 I have to force the shifter to the right hard to force past the reverse lockout and get it into reverse.
Ok I took it for a little drive yesterday and it seemed to shift pretty good, I decided to leave the console out and drive it to work today in case I had to make further adjustments. While driving I noticed that it is difficult to down shift into 2nd and into first at a stop light. Sometimes it is fine other times not. All other gears are fine, what would you guys recommend I adjust to fix that?
Ok I took it for a little drive yesterday and it seemed to shift pretty good, I decided to leave the console out and drive it to work today in case I had to make further adjustments. While driving I noticed that it is difficult to down shift into 2nd and into first at a stop light. Sometimes it is fine other times not. All other gears are fine, what would you guys recommend I adjust to fix that?
I would guess your driving... are you rev matching your motor on down shifts? Just asking
Have you done the Anti-Venom mod?
How does your clutch fluid look? Modified Ranger Method and switch to Lucas DOT 4 synthetic fluid?
Amsoil Torque drive trans fluid?
FWIW... I don't think any ONE thing I've done made a huge difference in the way our car shifts, but the combination of ALL the things I've done has...
Shifting is NOT just about the shifter... everything needs to be working smoothly to ensure a nice, smooth, positive shift. Clutch, Master, Slave, Pedal, Shifter, Synchros...etc, and driver has to be factored in as well.
Last edited by 73Corvette; Oct 2, 2015 at 11:56 AM.
If you installed the two set screws that hold the tension on the springs, I'd try adjusting them, and see if it helps.
Yes I have been adjusting the 2 set screws and I cant see a very big difference?
Originally Posted by 73Corvette
I would guess your driving... are you rev matching your motor on down shifts? Just asking
Yes I have tried both rev matching and not...
Have you done the Anti-Venom mod?
How does your clutch fluid look? Modified Ranger Method and switch to Lucas DOT 4 synthetic fluid?
Amsoil Torque drive trans fluid?
I have not don the anti-venom mod and do not know what it is? All I did as far as clutch fluid is used a plastic syringe to remove the dark fluid from the reservoir then add clean and pump clutch then repeat till clean. I have not done the ranger method and do not know what that is? I have not changed the trans fluid.
FWIW... I don't think any ONE thing I've done made a huge difference in the way our car shifts, but the combination of ALL the things I've done has...
Shifting is NOT just about the shifter... everything needs to be working smoothly to ensure a nice, smooth, positive shift. Clutch, Master, Slave, Pedal, Shifter, Synchros...etc, and driver has to be factored in as well.
What you did is basically the Ranger Method...
I would still look into putting a synthetic oil in the trans... have heard good things about Red Line... I used the Amsoil Torque Drive and I believe it helps with smoother shifts.
Last edited by 73Corvette; Oct 2, 2015 at 01:19 PM.
What you did is basically the Ranger Method...
I would still look into putting a synthetic oil in the trans... have heard good things about Red Line... I used the Amsoil Torque Drive and I believe it helps with smoother shifts.
So its just adding a copper washer to the detent plug?