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Last week shut it off at gas station. 5 minutes later she goes dead. Not a peep, nothing on on the DIC...just dead. I again turn key and it turns slowly, barely, but enough to start and then no further problems until today. Today, put in a new battery and it immediately again acted like a dying, or dead battery. Connections tight, voltage 14.2 (yellow top Optima). Dash, headlights, interior lights, Windows, etc all work fine. A second attempt gets a barely cranking engine but starts. Drives great, everything working and no codes. After driving half hour, I shut off in driveway and immediately try to start and get a solid thump, thump, thump as I turn and hold key......but it is not turning over, just a solid thump, thump, thump as long as I hold key. I suspect I have something going on at starter giving me intermittent shorts. Anyone have ideas or suggestions? I've never heard this sound before, usually hear a bad battery still slowly cranking, but this just thumps solidly.
Sure sounds like the starter. They tend to work better when cold but once hot from engine and exhaust heat the windings and solenoid can have issues. A classic--- started fine/OK and went for a drive and stopped somewhere and would not start again.
So....my starter looks brand new. Shining away with perfect contacts, no corrosion, oil, grime....literally clean enough to eat off of. The battery cables were tight but not so tight that I could not move them.......especially the ground. Tightened them both as much as possible and well, so far so good. The simple things right? For the last several weeks I had been plagued with AH codes. New tires, newly aligned, functioning yaw and lateral sensors. But driving it for 45 minutes tonight, not one popped up. So, let's see how she does this week. Thanks again guys.
So no go. The battery is discharging within hours. So...I rigged up the old light trick of cable to light to battery and got a bright steady light. Then started pulling fuses..at #25 the light went out. Bummer for me....BCM/IPC. Anything fixable in there?
Maybe. However 2001 reman BCMs BCMs are plentiful and not expensive. You will need to do the relearn "handshake" for the BCM PCM interface. After that you may need to use a Tech 2 to add any needed RPOs for your car if the BCM does not have them.
Relearn:
1. Turn the key to ON for 11 minutes.
2 Turn the key to OFF for 30 seconds.
3. Repeat 1&2 two more times.
4. Turn the key to ON for 30 seconds.
When conducting a current draw test on ANY modern day vehicle,, The old light bulb test WILL NOT WORK! The BCM and some other modules continuously draws current for theft control, memory and remote function monitoring. The bulb will remain on all the time.
You need to actually use a DC AMP Meter in series with the negative battery lead and battery terminal.
You will be looking for close to 20 milliamps Thats the ONLY way to see if there is an excessive current draw and to remove fuses and see if it reduces the draw.
NOTE.. The BCM must go into SLEEP MODE to achieve the 20 ma draw. If you bring the BCM out of sleep mode, it can take as long as 10-12 min for it to go to sleep. You can watch the meter and see the draw step down to sleep mode. Most of the time it takes 1-2 min.
The 10-12 minutes comes into play as an example; when you leave the hood up and the light doesn't go out for a long time (10-12 min)
Give that amp meter a try and see where your are.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Nov 15, 2015 at 02:33 PM.