The Hurst is worth it!! Hang in there!!!!

I had the same problem with the demon pin. I finally locked some vice grips on it and wiggled left and right and finally got it out.

The whole install took about an hour and a half. About an 45 minutes to an hour of that was piddling around with the shift ****.

Here's a tip. After you get the pin out, file it down a bit until it gets just fits snugly. Then if/when you want to pull it again, it'll be MUCH easier. After all, you may end up wanting to adjust the springs or something . . .

Karl

 

Actually, my demon key was set in there pretty tight. I tried the vice grip method first because that tip was listed in the tech section. For me, the vice grips didn't work, but maybe it somehow slightly loosened the key for the two screwdriver method to work. I was just offering another suggestion, with no intention of offending anyone.

JohnS

 

There are many ways to get the key out. The only foolproof I've seen is to use a high quality (Snap-On for me) "carb" wrench (the little open end one with one end set at about 75 degree, not the usual 15 or so. With a small piece of wood under the wrench it will lever up even the most stubborn shifter key without drama, where it can be readily and reliably grabbed with vice grips and removed--or more fulcum can be added under the wrench to continue prying it out (again, my preference).

I've seen the keys so mutilated that there was no alternative to drilling them out. I've seldom seen penetrant work with non-corroded metal in full contact with other non corroded metal; there is simply nowhere for the "oil" to penetrate effectively. Instead of helping matters, what often happens is that it slickens whatever you intend to pull on making matters worse once one slips off and damages the part.

Hey, all the best, in spite...

Oh, and to avoid some later hassle, read rattle--go get 3 or 4 steel staft collars from an electric motor shop to fit the shifter shaft. These are steel rings with set-screws. Apply under the boot as high as possible with blue loc-tite on the set-screws. These will not only serve as elequent, effective dampaners, but also keep the boot up against the shift-*** at all times. Sure beats stick-on, taped, or wire-tied wheel weights, in my book. I've used this "trick" effectively for years.


[Modified by Avanti, 11:45 PM 9/2/2002]

 

I sure feel for you guys every time I read one of these horror stories. Mine came out in about 1/2 a second with only slight pressure from one screwdriver. In fact, after the install, I put the stock **** back on and tapped the demon key with a hammer a couple times to make sure it was tight and it still came out really easily when installing the aftermarket ****.

I couldn't figure out why everyone was whining about it...but now I realize that I was just one of the lucky ones.

 

Two screwdrivers and mine came off in seconds also! Could not believe my eyes!!

 

get some DRY ICE (solid carbon dioxide) place it on the key for about 10-15 minutes and then just pull it out!

remember physics -metals contract when cooled! :rolleyes:

 

Cut it off.

A new stock shift **** and shifter can be had for VERY cheap over on the used parts section. Cut the little bugger off and be done with it. :yesnod: