Gonna have the rear main seal replaced soon. Anybody have any price quotes down here in south texas. And also gonna get a stall installed as well since all the drive train will be out. Let me know if you guys know someone that's had it done.

 

Brother,,, Hope you find a C5/C6 familiar shop that knows what there doing because,,, This isn't your run of the mill repair.. C5/C6 has some real unique stuff that needs special attention!!

Torque Tube Couplers need checked and or replaced.

That converter will need a PCM tune to run correctly.. Who do you have in mind for that??? I have an OUTSTANDING Recommendation!!

You should change your differential output shaft seals also..



READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes



The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:

1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
NOTE! You can read the DTCs with the engine running and or driving down the road but it can distract you. BE careful! Some DTCs clear themselves when you turn the ignition OFF!
I always read my DTCs prior to turning OFF the ignition switch. If you have any messages on the DIC,, PRESS RESET until they are gone!

2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect.)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.


Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, "C" or "H". A current C code indicates a malfunction is present and active in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except English/Metric (E/M). Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press and hold the RESET button To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5. You can GOOGLE the DTC and also find information on it.




Here is very good site that explains the DTCs:


http://www.corvette-web-central.com/C5DTCcode.html


http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php



Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!

AND

- C5 Differential Seal replacement: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...on-photos.html

 

Well Nelson performance put the cam so was gonna go with them. But have one other quote and other shop I'm waiting for them to get back to me on estimate tomorrow(lethal performance)

 

Who tuned the engine PCM after the CAM Install?? They will need to go back in and adjust the PCM for the new converter. Trust me,,, It will NOT work correctly without a tune!!!!

I cant recommend any shops in your area but I can recommend a TUNER that can do some SERIOUS Mail Order PCM tuning to get that Trans back in shape.

Bill

 

 

Had mine done recently. Big job. Requires forklift and 72 steps to get to it.

$700 in Tampa.

 

During the rebuild of my 2001 ls1 I was told by the Chevrolet parts department that I should look at the rear cover to see if it was leaking around the gasket. I purchased and used the align-tool from Sac City and it work great. Here is a copy of the bulletin from GM about the porosity of the blocks:




"Subject: 5.7L LS1, 6.0L LS2, 5.3L LS4, 5.7L LS6, 7.0L LS7, 5.3L L33, 5.3L LH6, 5.3L LM4 - Engine Oil Leak at Rear Cover Assembly Area (Engine Block Porosity RTV Repair Procedure) #05-06-01-034B - (10/02/2006)



Models: 2004-2006 Buick Rainier

2003-2006 Chevrolet Corvette, TrailBlazer

2004-2006 Chevrolet SSR

2005-2006 Chevrolet Silverado, Silverado SS

2006 Chevrolet Impala SS, Monte Carlo SS, TrailBlazer SS

2003-2006 GMC Envoy, Sierra

2004-2005 GMC Envoy XUV

2004-2006 Pontiac GTO

2005-2006 Pontiac Grand Prix GXP

2005-2006 Saab 9-7X

with 5.7L, 6.0L, 5.3L or 7.0L Engine (RPOs LS1, LS6, LS2, LS4, L33, LH6, LM4, LS7)




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This bulletin is being revised to update the parts information and add additional diagnostic information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-06-01-034A (Section 06 -- Engine/Propulsion System).


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Condition
Some customers may comment on an engine oil leak.

Cause
Upon initial diagnosis, it may be determined that the leak is coming from the rear cover gasket. This condition may be caused by engine block porosity on the sealing surface.

Correction
Follow the steps for Oil Leak Diagnosis in SI to determine the source of the leak. If the leak has been diagnosed as coming from the engine rear cover assembly, refer to Engine Rear Cover Replacement in SI and remove the engine rear cover assembly. Inspect for engine block porosity where the engine rear cover mates to the engine block. If porosity is found anywhere on the sealing surface, use the following procedure to apply RTV to repair the engine block porosity. Refer to the illustration below.





Important: Clean any residual oil from the block and cover before applying the sealant in the next step.

Wipe a small amount of RTV, P/N 12378521 (in Canada, use P/N 88901148), onto the surface using a plastic scraper to fill the porosity.
Remove any excess RTV material, especially from inside the high pressure oil passage. Refer to #1 in the above illustration.
Allow the RTV to cure for 10 minutes.
Important: Refer to Engine Rear Cover Replacement in SI and follow the tightening specifications and sequence.

Reinstall the engine rear cover using a new gasket and a new crankshaft rear main seal. Refer to Engine Rear Cover Replacement"

My car was not covered by the bulletin but the Corvette mechanic said he always put the sealant on the block, as described above on all ls1 engines as a extra precaution.

 

Hey, I read your post about replacing your rear main seal and that u did it in tampa, I have the same issue and i am at tampa as well. I just wanted to ask which shop replaced it for you and how was their work?
Best regards, Abdul.