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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 05:49 AM
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Default Damper spinning off crank...

Its happened twice now. ATI super damper, ARP bolt. Driving me up the fricken wall.

HCI car...480rwhp/430rwtq

I know I'll catch hell for install error but followed directions to a damn T both times. ARP lube the first time. Used red loctite the 2nd time. Didn't matter. Went about 1000 miles both times.

Just ordered ATI's pin kit. What's the theory on the pin kit? Even if a 4xxrwhp motor is causing the damper to spin, how the hell is it backing off a loctite'd, 240ftlb crank bolt?? Read about it...didn't think I'd need it, thought pinning was for blower cars due to belt wrap, power etc etc

Any similar issues with happy endings after pinning the damn thing?

Can you pin the crank with the front cover still on with the side pin kit like ATI's?

Thanks in advance
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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Cheesecake 07
Its happened twice now. ATI super damper, ARP bolt. Driving me up the fricken wall.

HCI car...480rwhp/430rwtq

I know I'll catch hell for install error but followed directions to a damn T both times. ARP lube the first time. Used red loctite the 2nd time. Didn't matter. Went about 1000 miles both times.

Just ordered ATI's pin kit. What's the theory on the pin kit? Even if a 4xxrwhp motor is causing the damper to spin, how the hell is it backing off a loctite'd, 240ftlb crank bolt?? Read about it...didn't think I'd need it, thought pinning was for blower cars due to belt wrap, power etc etc

Any similar issues with happy endings after pinning the damn thing?

Can you pin the crank with the front cover still on with the side pin kit like ATI's?

Thanks in advance
You might check the depth of the threaded hole in the crank snout and compare it to the length of the bolt. If the bolt is bottoming out in the snout, harmonics between the bolt and damper (since it technically wouldn't be clamping the damper) may be causing the bolt to back out. I haven't pinned a crank in a C5 as yet so I'll leave that to those who have.
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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 07:35 AM
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the ati tool is designed to be used with the cover on. here are the instructions:

http://www.atiracing.com/instructions/918993.pdf
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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 08:05 AM
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Did you measure the crank and the hub of the ATI prior to installation? I wouldn't use red loctite, it is a bandaid for a bigger problem. The pin kit is a very good quality kit, but it sounds like your interference fit is not correct. Do you have the tools to measure down to 1/10,000 inch?
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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 09:51 AM
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My ARP crank bolt spun out (as did my brand new GM damper) while staging for the parade at Carlisle this past year. Upon install, i used the ARP lube and didn't bother to pin the snout. The damper moved out against the steering rack and chewed itself up pretty badly. Luckily, thats the only damage it caused (besides burning up both belts) and it happened at idle; Just two hours earlier I did a rather dangerous highway pull so it could have been MUCH worse!
After the damper backed off, I started the car just long enough to get the car on a trailer to bring it home (4+ hours South). I immediately ordered an ATI pin kit with a Powerbond 25% underdrive. I torqued it to 250lbs instead of 240lb just for that extra teeny ounce of insurance. I used blue loctite and pinned it and I haven't had any trouble since.

A few times, i've been told to not use the ARP lube on the threads of the bolt, but only on the bearing faces of the washer and bolt. Hang in there, man. It's a stressful situation but it'll be okay!
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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
Did you measure the crank and the hub of the ATI prior to installation? I wouldn't use red loctite, it is a bandaid for a bigger problem. The pin kit is a very good quality kit, but it sounds like your interference fit is not correct. Do you have the tools to measure down to 1/10,000 inch?
Yeah...I didn't like using red loctite either. Few guys swore by it so I tried it. No I didn't measure either. What I get for assuming it would be correct. It's definitely a snug fit...had to use an install tool to get on, puller to remove. "Feels" normal and correct. Who knows. I'll find some tools to measure it out..

I guess a positive is I can yank the rack out in less than an hour

You might check the depth of the threaded hole in the crank snout and compare it to the length of the bolt. If the bolt is bottoming out in the snout, harmonics between the bolt and damper (since it technically wouldn't be clamping the damper) may be causing the bolt to back out
Yeah...the ARP appears to be correct. Same length as the stock bolt. I thought the same thing...maybe I had the LS7 bolt, but what Im using is correct.

I immediately ordered an ATI pin kit with a Powerbond 25% underdrive. I torqued it to 250lbs instead of 240lb just for that extra teeny ounce of insurance. I used blue loctite and pinned it and I haven't had any trouble since.
Honestly thinking of doing the same thing. Grab the PB 25% UD and pick up a little bit of power while I'm at it.

Thanks for the reply's
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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 03:58 PM
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A very good friend let me borrow his ATI Crank pinning kit. I thought it would be a difficult job but, to my surprise, it was really easy. I agree, "It can be accomplished with the front cover in place.

The PIN fits inside the POWERBOND Damper snout and prevents the damper from spinning on the crank snout.

Here's a picture of the Powerbond key way:







I TOO used the ARP BOLT at 240 ft/lbs and I have NOT had any issues.

I also agree on measuring the interference fit between the damper and the crank snout.

BC

Last edited by Bill Curlee; Dec 8, 2015 at 06:56 PM.
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Old Dec 8, 2015 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Cheesecake 07
Honestly thinking of doing the same thing. Grab the PB 25% UD and pick up a little bit of power while I'm at it.

Thanks for the reply's
I wouldn't give up the ATI for a PB. However, you should verify you also have the correct ATI damper. The f-body looks very similar so it might be worth the few minutes to verify the part number. Also, if you want extra insurance and have the time, ATI will machine a second keyway in the hub opposite to th existing one so you can double pin (note that the kit is set up to do this as well). This is recommended for FI installations but it might be a better way of getting that extra insurance you are seeking as opposed to using Loctite.

Last edited by vettenuts; Dec 8, 2015 at 06:47 PM.
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Old Mar 30, 2016 | 03:21 AM
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Update: if it helps anybody, pinning the crank seems to have solved it. Used the ATI pin kit and installed a new ARP bolt to spec. 2000mi and the bolt hasnt moved at all(paint marker'd bolt to damper as reference). Held up to a dozen n2o pulls(7000rpm) at a 1/2 mile event, dyno runs and the street miles. Never came close to lasting this long prior to pinning the crank.

Appreciate the tips!

Last edited by Cheesecake 07; Mar 30, 2016 at 03:21 AM.
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Old Mar 30, 2016 | 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
Did you measure the crank and the hub of the ATI prior to installation? I wouldn't use red loctite, it is a bandaid for a bigger problem. The pin kit is a very good quality kit, but it sounds like your interference fit is not correct. Do you have the tools to measure down to 1/10,000 inch?
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Old Jun 17, 2016 | 07:00 AM
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Pin it and be done. If aftermarket pulley use side perpendicular pin from Summit or if stock use parallel pin from eBay.

Last edited by FLORIDA; Jun 17, 2016 at 07:00 AM.
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Old Jun 18, 2016 | 07:32 AM
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Wouldn't it have been nice if GM had simply keyed the balancer and the crank instead of having to go through all of this? They did on later models. I guess they were learning as they went along.
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Old Jun 18, 2016 | 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by CactusCat
Wouldn't it have been nice if GM had simply keyed the balancer and the crank instead of having to go through all of this? They did on later models. I guess they were learning as they went along.
I wasn't aware of the change on later models. Do you have any other details?
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Old Jun 18, 2016 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by FLORIDA
I wasn't aware of the change on later models. Do you have any other details?
all the earlier,(pre LS) had keyways, on a externally balanced engine I have no idea what GM was thinking on this ????
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