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head and cam swap question....

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Old Jan 5, 2016 | 07:08 PM
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Default head and cam swap question....

I have a 98 LS1 C5 that I have swapped out some mildly ported 243's and a new Ed Curtis cam(219/223 .625 lift on a 111 lsa) on a stock bottom end. I have also put on new long tube headers and catless mid pipe and SLP loudmouth exhaust. A vararam intake system and a ported LS6 intake and throttle body.
Two questions...
One is, I have bought some red top 30lb injectors for this set up. Do I need these or should I keep the stock ones on?
Two is, do I start this at home and drive it easy to go through a couple of heat cycles for the new dual PAC springs before taking it for the tune and dyno runs. OR do I tow it to a local Vette shop to do the tune before I start it?

Thanks for the input, Chad.
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Old Jan 5, 2016 | 07:45 PM
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I did something similar. I drove my car (being easy on it) to the tuner on the stock injectors. It will likely run like crap if you change them out beforehand.
I changed the injectors in the parking lot and handed to keys to the tuner and he worked his magic.
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Old Jan 5, 2016 | 07:45 PM
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odd. Double post.

Last edited by C5 Pete; Jan 5, 2016 at 07:46 PM. Reason: Ugh.
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Old Jan 5, 2016 | 07:50 PM
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#1 - You will most likely need those injectors, but only the tuner on the dyno can see it.

#2 - You can start it at home *with the stock injectors*, do *not* swap injectors and start it. You can even drive it lightly if you don't swap injectors. When you arrive at the tuners, swap them then. Also make sure your tuner has the injector data that they need, all of it, not just 1 table.
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Old Jan 5, 2016 | 10:34 PM
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Ok, thanks guys, that is good news... NO tow bill
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Old Jan 6, 2016 | 12:09 AM
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I ran a similar cam on my old 98 car---with LT headers and a Fast 78 intake---A 98 has 28 LB injectors larger than most all C5's at only 24---
The industry standard is to not have over 80% duty cycles on your injectors--Mine was over that like 90%--however if your cars use is similar to mine--daily driver occasional street racing or drag racing--It should be just fine---Only time it would not be is it were a track car where you ran it for a long time at WOT-----
Larger injectors do NOT make more HP----Unless you need them--having too large of an injectors than needed will make your start-up--idle--intown drivability suffer----
resulting in dying--surging--etc----
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Old Jan 6, 2016 | 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by chad911sc
I have a 98 LS1 C5 that I have swapped out some mildly ported 243's and a new Ed Curtis cam(219/223 .625 lift on a 111 lsa) on a stock bottom end. I have also put on new long tube headers and catless mid pipe and SLP loudmouth exhaust. A vararam intake system and a ported LS6 intake and throttle body.
Two questions...
One is, I have bought some red top 30lb injectors for this set up. Do I need these or should I keep the stock ones on?
Two is, do I start this at home and drive it easy to go through a couple of heat cycles for the new dual PAC springs before taking it for the tune and dyno runs. OR do I tow it to a local Vette shop to do the tune before I start it?

Thanks for the input, Chad.
Tune it first. It will run poorly with the new parts. If you must drive it. Keep stock injectors and install those at tuner
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Old Jan 6, 2016 | 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by nullpointer
#1 - You will most likely need those injectors, but only the tuner on the dyno can see it.

#2 - You can start it at home *with the stock injectors*, do *not* swap injectors and start it. You can even drive it lightly if you don't swap injectors. When you arrive at the tuners, swap them then. Also make sure your tuner has the injector data that they need, all of it, not just 1 table.
Do not install them until you are at the tuners.. Good luck on the MOD install.

Bill
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Old Jan 6, 2016 | 07:54 PM
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Mine barely ran before the tune but I did do a few heat cycles before the tune. Then when you leave the tuners you will be totally freaked out. Nothing is better than a crammed C5.
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