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ARP Exhaust manifold stud question

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Old Jan 31, 2016 | 03:26 PM
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Default ARP Exhaust manifold stud question

I Remember reading somewhere that you can't get LT headers on the car with studs installed. Something about not enough clearance in the back of the head. I can't find that thread anywhere though. Can anyone confirm or debunk this?

I'm wondering if I should use bolts on the back side, because I want to make it so I can remove the headers if I need to, easily.

I'm guessing if the motor is jacked up its not a problem, but if the trans is installed I don't know if I can jack the motor as high as it is now.
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Old Jan 31, 2016 | 06:05 PM
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IMO studs can make for a difficult install and removal. The only benefit I can imagine is once you get the header past the studs it'd be marginally easier to hang it there. Headers don't generally slide in perfectly horizontal either.
Nothing wrong with the factory bolts...
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Old Jan 31, 2016 | 06:21 PM
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My issue with factory bolts is that I'm terrified every time I touch one it will snap off in the head.

I should mention I already have the arp studs, just waiting on the headers to come in. I'm wanting to know if I should install them all now.

Last edited by seand03; Jan 31, 2016 at 06:22 PM.
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Old Jan 31, 2016 | 06:51 PM
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I used the factory bolts and torqued them to spec, after 150 miles I re-torqued them to spec, since then I have put on 8000 miles with no issues !!!!
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Old Jan 31, 2016 | 06:52 PM
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13 years, 2 engines and 30k miles on my stock bolts
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Old Jan 31, 2016 | 07:40 PM
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stock bolts here as well, I've probably had my headers unbolted 3-4 times for various reasons and never had an issue... never had a problem on my old trans am either... just put anti-seize on them and you should be fine... working around studs is a pain to me... maybe a stud in the front of each head would help hang them so you can get the other bolts started but I wouldn't want to use all studs personally
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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 07:18 AM
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I have the studs. With my headers, you can't put all the studs in then hang the headers. However, I still wouldn't use bolts due to the risk of cross thread in the aluminum head. I also like the fact that you have full thread engagement when you tighten the headers in place. I figureed out which I could pre-install and hang the header then put those in and put the nuts/washers in place. Then installing the remaining studs only takes a few minutes because they are lubed with ARP lube and there is an allen fitting on the end of the stud so a finger ratchet and allen socket will make quick work of installing the remaining studs.

If you want to stick with stock bolts, you could pick up a couple of 8mmX1.25 bolts at a local hardware store and cut off the hex head to make something like a stud. Then use these to hang the gasket and header to aid with starting your bolts. Once the remaining bolts are in, remove the two cut bolts and replace with the actual bolts. Similar approach but in the end the header would be bolted in.

Last edited by vettenuts; Feb 1, 2016 at 07:20 AM.
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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 08:25 AM
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Great thread. I also bought the ARP header studs and plan to use them. Would hate to potentially ruin my freshly ported 243 heads
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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 08:41 AM
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studs are better for accurate torque, and to help from harming your heads. I would have used them if not for the cost and installing a bit more difficult. I have wrenched for a very long time,one thing I learned is start the bolt(or nut) by hand !!!!!! (posted before I used factory bolts)
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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
I have the studs. With my headers, you can't put all the studs in then hang the headers. However, I still wouldn't use bolts due to the risk of cross thread in the aluminum head. I also like the fact that you have full thread engagement when you tighten the headers in place. I figureed out which I could pre-install and hang the header then put those in and put the nuts/washers in place. Then installing the remaining studs only takes a few minutes because they are lubed with ARP lube and there is an allen fitting on the end of the stud so a finger ratchet and allen socket will make quick work of installing the remaining studs.

If you want to stick with stock bolts, you could pick up a couple of 8mmX1.25 bolts at a local hardware store and cut off the hex head to make something like a stud. Then use these to hang the gasket and header to aid with starting your bolts. Once the remaining bolts are in, remove the two cut bolts and replace with the actual bolts. Similar approach but in the end the header would be bolted in.

EXCELLENT INFORMATION!
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Old Feb 2, 2016 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
I have the studs. With my headers, you can't put all the studs in then hang the headers. However, I still wouldn't use bolts due to the risk of cross thread in the aluminum head. I also like the fact that you have full thread engagement when you tighten the headers in place. I figureed out which I could pre-install and hang the header then put those in and put the nuts/washers in place. Then installing the remaining studs only takes a few minutes because they are lubed with ARP lube and there is an allen fitting on the end of the stud so a finger ratchet and allen socket will make quick work of installing the remaining studs.

If you want to stick with stock bolts, you could pick up a couple of 8mmX1.25 bolts at a local hardware store and cut off the hex head to make something like a stud. Then use these to hang the gasket and header to aid with starting your bolts. Once the remaining bolts are in, remove the two cut bolts and replace with the actual bolts. Similar approach but in the end the header would be bolted in.
Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
EXCELLENT INFORMATION!
Going to copy and paste for my next heads-off job
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Old Feb 2, 2016 | 03:45 PM
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I have ebay header studs and you don't have to remove all the studs for installation, just some.
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