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I Remember reading somewhere that you can't get LT headers on the car with studs installed. Something about not enough clearance in the back of the head. I can't find that thread anywhere though. Can anyone confirm or debunk this?
I'm wondering if I should use bolts on the back side, because I want to make it so I can remove the headers if I need to, easily.
I'm guessing if the motor is jacked up its not a problem, but if the trans is installed I don't know if I can jack the motor as high as it is now.
IMO studs can make for a difficult install and removal. The only benefit I can imagine is once you get the header past the studs it'd be marginally easier to hang it there. Headers don't generally slide in perfectly horizontal either.
Nothing wrong with the factory bolts...
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
stock bolts here as well, I've probably had my headers unbolted 3-4 times for various reasons and never had an issue... never had a problem on my old trans am either... just put anti-seize on them and you should be fine... working around studs is a pain to me... maybe a stud in the front of each head would help hang them so you can get the other bolts started but I wouldn't want to use all studs personally
I have the studs. With my headers, you can't put all the studs in then hang the headers. However, I still wouldn't use bolts due to the risk of cross thread in the aluminum head. I also like the fact that you have full thread engagement when you tighten the headers in place. I figureed out which I could pre-install and hang the header then put those in and put the nuts/washers in place. Then installing the remaining studs only takes a few minutes because they are lubed with ARP lube and there is an allen fitting on the end of the stud so a finger ratchet and allen socket will make quick work of installing the remaining studs.
If you want to stick with stock bolts, you could pick up a couple of 8mmX1.25 bolts at a local hardware store and cut off the hex head to make something like a stud. Then use these to hang the gasket and header to aid with starting your bolts. Once the remaining bolts are in, remove the two cut bolts and replace with the actual bolts. Similar approach but in the end the header would be bolted in.
Last edited by vettenuts; Feb 1, 2016 at 07:20 AM.
studs are better for accurate torque, and to help from harming your heads. I would have used them if not for the cost and installing a bit more difficult. I have wrenched for a very long time,one thing I learned is start the bolt(or nut) by hand !!!!!! (posted before I used factory bolts)
I have the studs. With my headers, you can't put all the studs in then hang the headers. However, I still wouldn't use bolts due to the risk of cross thread in the aluminum head. I also like the fact that you have full thread engagement when you tighten the headers in place. I figureed out which I could pre-install and hang the header then put those in and put the nuts/washers in place. Then installing the remaining studs only takes a few minutes because they are lubed with ARP lube and there is an allen fitting on the end of the stud so a finger ratchet and allen socket will make quick work of installing the remaining studs.
If you want to stick with stock bolts, you could pick up a couple of 8mmX1.25 bolts at a local hardware store and cut off the hex head to make something like a stud. Then use these to hang the gasket and header to aid with starting your bolts. Once the remaining bolts are in, remove the two cut bolts and replace with the actual bolts. Similar approach but in the end the header would be bolted in.
I have the studs. With my headers, you can't put all the studs in then hang the headers. However, I still wouldn't use bolts due to the risk of cross thread in the aluminum head. I also like the fact that you have full thread engagement when you tighten the headers in place. I figureed out which I could pre-install and hang the header then put those in and put the nuts/washers in place. Then installing the remaining studs only takes a few minutes because they are lubed with ARP lube and there is an allen fitting on the end of the stud so a finger ratchet and allen socket will make quick work of installing the remaining studs.
If you want to stick with stock bolts, you could pick up a couple of 8mmX1.25 bolts at a local hardware store and cut off the hex head to make something like a stud. Then use these to hang the gasket and header to aid with starting your bolts. Once the remaining bolts are in, remove the two cut bolts and replace with the actual bolts. Similar approach but in the end the header would be bolted in.