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leaking tire valve/TPS - do you need nut also?

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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 10:07 AM
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Default leaking tire valve/TPS - do you need nut also?

Have a slow leak existing on old and new tire....they did not put new valves and stems since TPMS attached. Question is if I purchase the one TPMS do I need additional parts, looks like there may be a separate nut, etc.?


Thanks.
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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 10:51 AM
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1. Have you attempted to TIGHTEN the nut?? I would try that first. Its in INCH pounds so, don't crank it star tight. I will try to find the exact value.

2. IF, the sensor is still good, you can purchase the rebuild kit for the sensor. It includes the seal and the valve inside the stem and a new cap.

I know that you can purchase each part separately as I had to purchase everything to install TPMs in my 02 ZO6.

97-2000 Sensor that uses an O ring seal:



2001 -2004 sensor with the formed rubber seal:











NOTE! You can NOT use a late sensor if you have a early C5. Or vise versa.
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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 11:48 AM
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Have a 2001 -


To retighten tire needs to be removed or deflated at least right? Guessing it would just spin if I tighten from the outside?


Prehaps the sensors rubber seal is shot?
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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 12:05 PM
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Ahhhh,,, The sensor lays FALT against the barrel of the rim. The stem is part of the sensor. If the NUT is not properly tightened it will leak. You should be able to just RE-TIGHTEN it. If retightening it doesn't solve the issue, you need to deflate the tire, break the bead and remove the sensor and inspect the seal and mounting surface on the rim. Simple as that!

2002 ZO6 chrome rim with the sensor mounted:



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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 12:19 PM
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ANOTHER TPMS picture for you: 2001+

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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 01:57 PM
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I did try tightening a while back but just a little, think it may have slowed it from a weekly leak to monthly. Did not want to break, was not sure if they were just spinning....did not have the torque spec.


They are metal so I will try a little tighter to get to the 5.1 lb/ft.


Thanks again.
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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 03:38 PM
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Please don't forget to close out the post by providing the results of tightening or what you had to do to resolve the issue.

NOTE..
Get some liquid dish soap and a small cup of water. Make a heavy concentration of soapy water and drizzle some of the solution on the stem/nut area. You will see the leak in a heart beat if one is there. Tighten and see if the bubbles STOP!


Bill
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Old Feb 6, 2016 | 02:18 PM
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Any up-dates??

BC
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Old Feb 6, 2016 | 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Any up-dates??

BC
yep so far so good holding air for a week no bubbles, tightened all 4 that one was definitely loose. Thanks again!
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Old Feb 6, 2016 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by pmr2000
yep so far so good holding air for a week no bubbles, tightened all 4 that one was definitely loose. Thanks again!
excellent!
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Old Feb 6, 2016 | 09:55 PM
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that you didn't have to purchase any new sensor parts or mess around with breaking down the tire.
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Old Jun 16, 2019 | 12:06 PM
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Resurrecting this based on recent experience.
I've been plagued with loss of tire pressure during track events. No problems driving to/from the event or over night but after just 3 laps I get a tire pressure warning on the DIC. Went to 4 different tire shops and no leaks were found even in a dunk tank at 45psi.
Broke the bead and resealed the tire twice with the same results.
Wheel in question had recently been straightened and road force balanced. So ordered a new wheel. When they went to remove the TPMS to the new wheel they found it loose and the o ring damaged. Rebuilt the TPMS and returned the new wheel I had ordered. Problem solved finally!
One year later, I am getting the same warnings on track from different wheel. Now better informed, I used a 12 mm socket and tightened the nut at the base of the valve stem just 1/4 turn and had no more issues.

Now everytime i change wheels I make it a point to make sure the nuts are tight.

My question is: what is the proper torque spec?
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