Well, Theres your issue!

B2723 Diagnostic Trouble Code = passkey detection circuit open or shorted

The imbedded resistor chip on your key is not registering with the BCM. There is a 5 volt reff voltage on one wire of the sensor inside the first part of the ignition switch on the front of the lock cylinder. When you push the key in, the resistor in the key reduces that 5 VDC reff voltage to a lower voltage that the BCM recognizes as the security key code.

You can remove the ignition switch and inspect the two wires going to the sensor on the front of the lock cylinder.
You can use a meter to see if the 5 VDC Reff voltage is present.
You can measure the value of the resistor in the key. Unplug the sensor from the cars harness. Then insert the key and use an OHM Meter to see if you can read the resistance on the sensor output pig tail. Should be the exact same resistance as the key resistor

Bill

 

I have to agree! I brought my battery to full charge, disconnected my battery tender to see how much draw there is on the battery. I don't drive it everyday so over the course of a week I'm going to monitor it, but I really don't know how much it should drop over that period of time!

 

What you need to do is measure sleep mode current draw, this is done by disconnecting negative battery cable and connecting meter leads to battery and battery cable. The multimeter current range selected to 10 amp scale, you should read about 20ma after about 15 minutes or so.

 

Starters and solenoids: MOST any starter will run on the bench under no load. If it free runs for you it may still not work in the car and this is (more than likely) why: There are two common problems (barring bad connections); the first is that the commutator (the copper part of the armature where the brushes ride) is carbon-clogged. If the starter quits and you tap it with a (whatever) and it starts working, you've more than likely jarred the starter enough to get a slightly better contact between the brushes and the commutator. The problem will be back. The second known problem is the bushings that support the armature run dry of lubricant (or are badly worn). When you turn the key to start, the armature wants to turn at several thousand rpm; if these bushings are dry (or worn) it will instantly fetch up and all you'll get is a click when you engage the starter.

During cranking, the basic design of these starters (permanent magnet gear reduction) allows them to draw far less current than earlier designs which increases solenoid life.

According to one of my trade magazines ignition coils were the most incorrectly purchased electrical part, followed by starter solenoids. My experience shows that maybe 3 or 4 out of a hundred are worn out to the point of malfunctioning. I used to crack the cap off of ones I removed for a look-see during the rebuilding process and that's where I get my figure from.

There are some members of this board that advocate replacing the solenoid as a repair to a clicking starter. For the reasons I've listed above, this is a shot in the dark. I recommend replacing it while attending to the (possible) problems I've listed above.

 

Ensuring that battery is fully charged, cable connections are clean and tight at battery, starter solenoid and engine block, the next thing to check that TDR is being energized and sending power to the switch terminal on the starter solenoid, do this before going thru all the hassle of removing your starter