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I recently noticed there to be a little play in the rear of my 2002 C5 Z06 with 40k miles and was going to have a hub assembly replaced. At about the same time, the check traction control, check ABS lights came on. I though that maybe it was related to the wheel hub assembly not being solid.
The dealer called today and said it would be $3,900 in addition to the $700 to replace the hub assembly.
I immediately asked for a breakdown on the quote and saw they were going to charge me MSRP on the following parts as well as $444.73 for labor.
Part Number: 12216561 EBCM CONTROL MODULE Corvette; All Fits 2002 Chevrolet Corvette Z06 MSRP $1,321.45
Part Number: 10343432
ABS Brake Pressure Modulator Valve
Item #2 on image
MSRP $2,209.34
Up until this point I've only had to spend here and there on things like a new battery, the hazard light switch, etc. Now, I knew what I was getting in to and was expecting to have to replace some high dollar things eventually. I just find it odd that this is going to cost 1/5th of the value of my vehicle at around $4,700?!?
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
The EBCM is repairable for most codes. ABSfixer is one that repairs these and last I saw it was about 150.00 to fix. Here is a file to show you how to pull the codes and what they mean
I would agree with akpounder that a bad rear wheel bearing could possibly cause the problems you appear to be having. I would check the bearing, and if it is bad, I would certainly change that first and see if it clears up the other problem before moving on.
Additionally, the C5 rear spindle nut has been known to work loose and that would probably be the very first thing I would check.
I had to replace my ECBM as well. You can search my small post history for a thread on that. Basically, with mine, soldering did not fix it. It needed to be replaced.
Its an easy, plug and play swap if you end up needing to do that. Run the traction control codes and see if anything pops up. If you had TCS- No COMMS like me, it may be the same deal.
Last edited by ledesordre; Mar 1, 2016 at 12:02 PM.
Are you being had?...Absolutely!
First and foremost....A rear AC Delco/SKF/Timken hub with bearing is gonna run you $150 shipped from rockauto. Another $100-$150 tops for install shows you that they are slaying you at $700 for a rear hub installed.
As far as your codes go, like others have said you DEF want to pick up your car and post up what codes are showing. A bad ABS sensor in the failing rear hub can throw a bunch of codes and that could be your prob altogether.
That dealer wants you to pay to replace every part that has anything to do with those codes and that basically shows a lack of competence in regards to your issue. They are basically trying to sell you on your rear wheel bearing/hub and ABS sensor, ABS pump/block and you BCM have all failed instantaneously at the exact same time. That right there is ZERO diagnostic work.
Replace the obviously bad rear hub, post up your DIC codes and let us "experts" help you with the actual problems rather than the dealer milking you for thousands of $$$ for parts you dont need.
To be fair, they could have diagnosed it and found the ABS pump was drawing excess current and the EBCM had failed due to the pump drawing excess current. For a GM dealer, that means replace all the parts. For an individual, you could try ABS fixer on the EBCM and powering the ABS pump until it will run again and then doing an ABS brake bleed to flush the fluid and it would likely work again, for a while, on the cheap.
So, once again the codes are needed before anyone can say if the dealer is being shady or not.
The high prices aren't really shady but they could have knocked some off of the MSRP. Overall, a dealer is usually more expensive.
Last edited by lionelhutz; Mar 2, 2016 at 05:23 PM.
To be fair, they could have diagnosed it and found the ABS pump was drawing excess current and the EBCM had failed due to the pump drawing excess current. For a GM dealer, that means replace all the parts. For an individual, you could try ABS fixer on the EBCM and powering the ABS pump until it will run again and then doing an ABS brake bleed to flush the fluid and it would likely work again, for a while, on the cheap.
So, once again the codes are needed before anyone can say if the dealer is being shady or not.
The high prices aren't really shady but they could have knocked some off of the MSRP. Overall, a dealer is usually more expensive.
Absolutely that is a possibility, but more than likely the dealer scanned codes and wants to replace everything associated with whatever they pulled up in codes. As long as OP posts up codes, hopefully all the well versed BCM/ABS specialists on here can get him back rollin for well under the dealers proposed $5,000 bill.
PLEASE read and post the DTCs. When the issue happens, WITHOUT turning the engine off, clear any messages in the DIC by pressing and holding RESET and then READ AND POST ALL THE DTCs.
Absolutely that is a possibility, but more than likely the dealer scanned codes and wants to replace everything associated with whatever they pulled up in codes. As long as OP posts up codes, hopefully all the well versed BCM/ABS specialists on here can get him back rollin for well under the dealers proposed $5,000 bill.
dealers don't just pull codes and then blindly replace every part associated with a code. They follow troubleshooting tables for the codes.