Well I'm in the middle of my first engine build, this forum has been nothing but helpful so far! I am ordering a 383 balanced rotating assembly from cnc-motorsports. According to the website, with 66cc heads (stock 97 c5 heads) it should make around 11:1 compression. I'll be using stock heads, a small 216/220 550"/550" cam, headers, etc. I'm on a budget here lol. Is this a safe set up to run on pump gas? The piston bore is 3.905, -6cc Mahle forged pistons, 4 inch stroke. I'll be driving it untuned for awhile until I save up a bit. Any comments or "you're an idiot" replies are welcome. There is a first time for everything!

 

I run/race an 11.5 to 1 engine on pump gas without any problems.

 

418ci stroker here and I'm 11.3:1 on pump. Good a really good tune and youll be fine............
wait a minute, I just noticed you said UNTUNED??? Its a stroker that will require to be flashed for the size of injector you will be running at a bare minimum or else you will run the risk of knock and detonation. Maybe someone can correct me? But with my 418, my tuner wouldn't even turn the key until he flashed the PCM with the correct sized injectors. ESPECIALLY if your going to be driving it? Maybe you used that term loosely....Just save to do it right the first time before you could potentially have problems. I don't even recommend my buddies with stock cubes and a cam swap to drive without a tune. Yet alone a stroker......maybe to put down the street n back but DRIVE??

 

Im a little over 11:1 in my SBE. I run a tighter quench(.040 head gaskets) and a lot more cam than you...which help me on pump gas(91).

Like above make sure you tune it...i think you'll be ok, especially if you can get 93

 

If you still have the stock '97 fuel system, the injectors will be inadequate.

 

Thank you for the advice! What size injectors would you recommend? Would my fuel pump be able to support them? Long story short, stock motor poorly taken care of developed rod knock and now I need to rebuild it. I could have gotten just a 346 replacement assembly but am thinking about the stroker set up. What do I need to support the set up I'd like to run keeping in mind everything I have now is stock. Also it's a '97 block. I wasn't sure about the 3.905 pistons in an early block

 

SIR,,,,,,,,,,,, You have a LOT of spending to do before you turn the key!

TRUST ME!

I wouldn't go anything lower than 36 lb/injectors! Most likely should use 42 lb/hr.

How many miles on your car? POORLY TAKEN CARE OF, means a LOT more than just the engine. Which for you probably means that you bank account will ne abuse a LOT more!

STOCK HEADS?????????????
Stock heads will be a SERIOUS CHOKE POINT for performance! Why Stock heads??

Is this a short block and if not, what all will you be UP-GRADING?????????

What LIFTERS? There's an entire SEPERATE post that I could do on LIFTERS and VALVE TRAINS! How noisy do you want the engine to be??

FUEL PUMP is a MUST! PS,,,, You have a unique fuel system that has a fuel RETURN LINE and regulator at the intake manifold area.

Is it a A4 or MN6 car???? If its an A4, you may need a higher stall Torque converter and trans oil cooler.

What intake manifold are you using?

What Cold Air Induction System?

If its a MN6, you have a LOT of clutch / drivetrain work to do. Either way, your Torque Tube couplers are most likely shot or on their way out! CRACKED AND DRIED OUT!

DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR UNTIL IT IS TUNED! PERIOD! YOU AND IT WILL NOT BE HAPPY! Read $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Who is going to tune the car?? Better get that planned NOW so you can get his advice on basic NEW ENGINE TUNE (mail order) and finial tune. IN THE SHOP TUNE!

There are SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO many more finer points to installing this engine (that does NOT even relate to the engine) that you will need to or ought to address! I hate to see people do things two or three times unnecessarily.


Have you done any differential test to see if you need new seals and or beleview limited slip clutch springs????

Here is some light reading for you to do:

- C5, ragtopws6 , Upgrading your C5 rear with C6 Z06 guts, : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-z06-guts.html
-

- C5, Its_Go_Time, Output Shaft Install - Left and Right: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1573407966

- C5, Its Go TIME, Differential Rebuild post: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...1&p=1591127325

- C5 Differential Seal replacement: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...on-photos.html

What suspension system do you have? The new power plant will either trash what you have or the weak suspension will TRASH the differential/Trans!
WHEEL HOP/DRIVE TRAIN SHAKE is the enemy!!!!


Bill

 

I have a lot of work to do! Haha. The car is a '97, has 74,000 miles. I didn't consider needing anything drivetrain wise other than a clutch and a fluid flush. I'm not drag racing this car. Just some occasional spirited driving Fuel pump and injectors, got it! Basically everything in the motor is being replaced. Forged balanced rotating assembly, ls7 lifters, hardened pushrods, ls6 springs (small cam). The stock heads are mainly because I don't have money. They will be ported and polished. I don't plan on a turbo or supercharger. The build edges on conservative as opposed to ***** to the wall as much power as i can squeeze out of the thing. Stock manifold, K&N CAI. I fully understand being proactive about drivetrain and suspension, but I have a limited budget and i do not intend to stress the drivetrain past its limits at this time. Yes, unfortunately the pervious owners of the car didn't do the most fantastic job keeping the car up. But for now a good power increase will do fine. Lethal Performance here in San Antonio is doing the tune. Thank you for helping me realize this is more than just a H/C swap! I've always needed some sense slapped into me

 

yes 11 to 1 is not a problem on 91 or 93 gas with a tune.
I would run a higher compression 11.5 to 1 is still ok on 91 or 93 with a tune. Ask the block supplier for maybe a -2cc dish piston. Usually the price is the same. Use a .040 thick head gasket-Cometic.
If you stay with the GM .051 head gasket def get a -2cc piston or close to it.
If you travel in areas with only 91 gas is avalable tell your tuner these details.

Injectors: if you stay with that baby cam 36lbs will be fine.
I would use a larger cam with a 383ci motor and 42lbs injectors with stock pump.
If you want a small cam maybe a 228 intake duration.
Stock heads like a split duration like 228/320 at .550 to .575 lift on a 114cl.
ook at TEXAS SPEED OR BRIAN TOOLEY sites for a cam.
You will need springs even for the cam you listed so go bigger with the cam if you are buying a cam. Look for a single beehive spring to save money.
upgrade the pushrods.
new GM head bolts or ARP bolts, follow torque details per the bolt that you use GM and APR require diff. methods.

A new timing chain and oil pump are a must.

 

Thank you, I would go bigger with the cam but unfortunately I ordered the 216/220 cam before I tore apart the motor and thought all I had was a bent valve. For now baby cam stays All bolts internal and external will be ARP

 

you could post the cam for sale on the parts section.
almost everyone wishes they went bigger.
I started with a 224 intake duration then I went with a custom cam at 226/230 113+2 which was a great daily driver cam and power/torque cam at stock ci.
I am putting together a stock size LS1 with heads and a bunch of good internals and I will use Brians cam LS1 stage -2 with number close to 227/232 .617, .573 113+2.

your giving up maybe 25 free HP if you don't sell the one you have.
Changing the cam with the motor in the car is a pain should you consider changing it later.

 

IMHO,, you should look for a (Z06 Style 2001+) intake manifold as it flows MUCH better than the early LS1 intake. Its a direct bolt on with very minor modding.

QUOTE" DAD,,,, I PROMISE I will NOT abuse the car! :

 

vetteme97 Bill, and Mr. Jones have given you some great advice and A LOT for you to look at and look INTO. 36lb injectors for what you are saying you will keep (heads and cam) will be fine. BUT people seem to want more power out of their investment in time. So IMO would shoot for the 42lbs. That way if you ever plan to upgrade the heads or go bigger in cam selection, your fuel wont hold you back. Bill suggested the LS6 intake and I agree 100%. I know this is on a budget but if you skimp too much, it may not run as smooth as you would hope.

 

Well it looks like I'm going stock cubes. There's just too much I have to do to support a 383 on my budget. I only have about $4500 budgeted for for this motor. I am sticking with stock injectors for now, forged internals like before, stage 2 clutch. I will be upgrading the cam from the 216/220 to the TSP Torquer V2 232/234 600"/600". Ported oil pump, ls2 timing chain. The stock lifters aren't damaged at all. I would get the 383 but between injectors and clearancing the block for the rod bolts, I just don't think my budget allows for that. Any opinions on the cam?

 

Its a good cam, but it all depends where you want the power and how you drive, i went with a btr stage 3 and i love it, its def a torque monster but its all about your driving styles and what you plan to use the car for.

 

agree the torque -2 is a great cam.
You need to keep the compression up to make the most of your setup.
The bigger the cam the more dynamic compression is bled off.
11.5 min. for this cam. This will help with the low rpm power.
Make sure you change the lifter buckets-use ls2 style.

 

Holy crap. You're gonna have the whole motor torn down and not replace the lifters??????????

 

PAY ME NOW,,,,,,, OR PAY ME TWICE LATER!

This is the RACERS CREED

CHEEP, FAST RELIABLE PICK TWO,, cause you cant have all three.

 

I'm NOT trying to be a BALL BUSTER. I've seen WAAAAAY TOOOO MANY engine mods go wrong/be too noisy and cost far more than it needed to not to make some TIME and BLOOD SHED proven recommendations to make your build go correctly the FIRST TIME.

EXAMPLE; If you have worn OLD OEM valve train components and use them with a NEW HIGHER LIFT CAM, they are not going to work properly with more lift and valve spring pressure.
Especially the LIFTERS. The lifter internal pistons leak down when worn AND OR will not pump up properly. The result. POOR performance and or a NOISY VALVE TRAIN!

Bill

 

Lots of scary posts in this thread.

Budget. Do what it will allow.

Injectors/tuning/lifters/springs/cam.

Stroker or stock doesn't matter.

Keep stock fuel system for now. Up grade later.
Keep stock intake and TB. Upgrade later.
Keep stock drive train. Upgrade later.

However, installing new rings will require some work to the block. Buy a cheap dingle berry hone tool and use your drill to hone the cylinders.
Be sure to clean it up thoroughly after.

Nothing magic about an LS engine. Thousands have rebuilt SBC on the cheap. No reason you can't do the same with an LS.

Do not replace the cam bearing.

No need for ARP everything. Stock bolts work fine. Be sure to clean out the threads for the head bolts because the factory uses thread locker and you need to get that out before installing new bolts.

Good luck with your project!