When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
OK, I'm working on my son's 1998 ls1 c5 Corvette and I removed the six 10 mm bolts for the water pump. (I've checked twice!)
So the water pump will not come off the car. In fact it feels much like a bolt is still connected. I've pried with a small crowbar but no success and since It's not my car I'd rather not be too aggresive.
Any suggestions ?
My questions ...
What is a good place to really pry and not break anything.
Any bolts hidden behind the pully.
Are there only six bolts to remove.
OK, I'm working on my son's 1998 ls1 c5 Corvette and I removed the six 10 mm bolts for the water pump. (I've checked twice!)
So the water pump will not come off the car. In fact it feels much like a bolt is still connected. I've pried with a small crowbar but no success and since It's not my car I'd rather not be too aggresive.
Any suggestions ?
My questions ...
What is a good place to really pry and not break anything.
Any bolts hidden behind the pully.
Are there only six bolts to remove.
You have a new one to look at ??? looking at one looks like 8 bolts ???
hmmmm that's odd. I know my car is an 01 and I removed my pump earlier last year to change out all of my AC components. There were only 6 bolts. Does the impeller free spin?
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
The '97 and '98 cars used paper/fiber gaskets from the factory. Beginning in '99 the gasket design was changed to an aluminum carrier with a silicone o-ring bonded to them and are the only ones available now. Once the hoses and 6 bolts are clear, you'll just have to go a bit medieval on it.
I would suggest a crowbar if more leverage is needed, along with a block of wood to pry against. Be sure to clean all the mating surfaces afterwards of course and use NO sealant. The new gaskets are metal/silicone pieces and go on dry.
Tip: inspect your 6 mounting bolts and their threads for signs of corrosion. A wire brush, then a thin coat of anti-seize paste, will protect them.
The '97 and '98 cars used paper/fiber gaskets from the factory. Beginning in '99 the gasket design was changed to an aluminum carrier with a silicone o-ring bonded to them and are the only ones available now. Once the hoses and 6 bolts are clear, you'll just have to go a bit medieval on it.
I would suggest a crowbar if more leverage is needed, along with a block of wood to pry against. Be sure to clean all the mating surfaces afterwards of course and use NO sealant. The new gaskets are metal/silicone pieces and go on dry.
Tip: inspect your 6 mounting bolts and their threads for signs of corrosion. A wire brush, then a thin coat of anti-seize paste, will protect them.
HTH
Big thanks !!! to all that replied. I got a bigger crow bar, used a wood to protect, yanked were the heat hoses are as it seemed the strongest part of the pump. I don't ever think I've yanked that hard on any part before but it let go.
There was somesort of black adhesive (?) the previous owner used or something holding it together.
LOL!! I changes the pump out on my 98 Coupe. It took me NO TIME AT ALL to get the pump off. It took the rest of the day to get that NASTY BLACK CRAP off the block.
NOTE! You WILL have a leak if you are not careful and diligent and get ALL of the old adhesive off!!
Make sure that you UP-GRADE to the new aluminum framed/Rubber embossed gasket. Its MUCH BETTER!
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Mar 4, 2016 at 12:44 PM.