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First let me say thank you to the hundreds (?) of people that have posted their HB experiences in this forum. So far this entire process has not been that difficult using forum posts as my guide.
BTW - You can get the steering column out of the top if you remove the waterpump etc. That post was a great help!
OK, so here are the questions. (from other posts)
For the crank seal in the timing cover. Lube or not the "lip" of the seal
For the crank snout surface installing the HB ... Dry or add "never seize"
For the balancer bolt (I'm thinking an ARP bolt) ... dry, locktite blue or red .. on threads or just the underside of the head. (Red Loctite removal seems a bit tough if I have to do this again.)
Looking for any and all comments or alternate suggestions and/or the "GM" recommended method.
For the crank seal in the timing cover. Lube or not the "lip" of the seal
For the crank snout surface installing the HB ... Dry or add "never seize"
For the balancer bolt (I'm thinking an ARP bolt) ... dry, locktite blue or red .. on threads or just the underside of the head. (Red Loctite removal seems a bit tough if I have to do this again.)
Looking for any and all comments or alternate suggestions and/or the "GM" recommended method.
Seal goes in dry.
Crank snout depends on balancer, GM is dry. ATI uses lube.
ARP uses their lube. GM bolt, no lube.
I have posted the service manual pages a few times, not at my main computer now so can't re-post but it should show up in other posts on this topic.
Here's a tip, find or rent a Ridgid Strap wrench. That way you can really lock the HB so you have a chance to get that 240 lbs on the new ARP bolt. The Hawks Balancer install tool is well worth the money.
Crank snout is dry. I followed the service manual procedure where you install / remove the bolt and measure the damper installation depth. ARP recommends their lube on the threads and both sides of the washer.
What im trying to figure out is how do you get to that Tq rating without the Balancer moving out of the correct position (too far back) on the front seal housing. Never been able to get to 240lbs.
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
Originally Posted by Johnny wangwang
What im trying to figure out is how do you get to that Tq rating without the Balancer moving out of the correct position (too far back) on the front seal housing. Never been able to get to 240lbs.
I actually bought one of those right after I posted in that thread. That wouldnt help with what im saying though. What im sayng is...you get the balancer to the correct depth on the crank (I actually marked it on the Front seal housing so I dont have to measuer anymore. But then when you wanna tq it to spec. When you go to tq the balancer it just goes deeper when you tighten it.
powerbond 25% underdrive or whatever the biggest underdrive is. Ive never had an issue with it coming off or the front seal leaking anything with the way I put it on. But im just curious.
Harmonic Balancer - a few questions please
