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Best oil pressure sender switch

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Old Jul 28, 2016 | 06:12 PM
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Default Best oil pressure sender switch

Just took off the intake of my 2004 and was getting ready to run to OReillys to grab a sender but I really don't want to do this again in the near future. Who has the best sender unit? Is aluminum or brass better?
Thanx
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Old Jul 28, 2016 | 06:39 PM
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The Brass one
Don't over tighten it when you replace it 15ft/lbs

Last edited by Smoken1; Jul 28, 2016 at 07:11 PM.
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Old Jul 28, 2016 | 07:39 PM
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Brass one I believe the part # is bwd s4202 $40.00 at advanced auto.
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Old Jul 29, 2016 | 02:11 PM
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I believe it's somewhat subjective, but I just replaced a brass one (that was an obvious replacement) with a Delco original(alum) one and so far so good. It's a crapshoot either way but I've found that original GM parts are usually better replacements. As stated above, the correct torque is very important on these sensors--and I did wrap a bit of tape around the threads beforehand.
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Old Jul 29, 2016 | 02:22 PM
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Default Best solution I have found

The Buick sensor is cheaper too. I got a lifetime warranty at O'Reilly auto.

Earls fitting 982303ERL 45° Elbow Male AN -3 to 1/8" NPT
Russel line RUS-658080 3an f to 3an f 15" braided hose
Russel fitting RUS-660410 -3 AN Male to 1/8 in. NPT Male

From Lowes

Brass fitting 1/4 male to 1/8 female
Brass fitting 1/4 to 1/4 female

From Gene Culley gmpartshouse.com

Buick sensor 12584940

The finished product:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-question.html
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Old Jul 29, 2016 | 04:02 PM
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I got a brass one , from random advice posted here. I generally favor GM parts, on the advice of paid experts, but figure with my relocation of the part, failure won't be a big deal.

I also used a posted relocation parts list and kept the corvette sensor, just so the next guy working on the car can figure it out easily. Got a brass one from advanced auto parts. Keep meaning to swing by Earls plumbing to see if the counter guy can eliminate some of the fittings.

I relocated for ease of repair, but then remembered heat and electronics don't mix well, so it reinforced my decision to relocate as good thinking, even if I didn't think of it in planning. The part where I tightened the manifold with the pig tail extension under it, not good thinking.
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Old Jul 29, 2016 | 07:40 PM
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I bought a brass body one from Summit, 10,000 miles so far and no issues and I can see it so I know !!!
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Old Aug 3, 2016 | 12:35 PM
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I went with the brass one also. Been no problems since 2014.
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Old Aug 3, 2016 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by lonerider2002
I believe it's somewhat subjective, but I just replaced a brass one (that was an obvious replacement) with a Delco original(alum) one and so far so good. It's a crapshoot either way but I've found that original GM parts are usually better replacements. As stated above, the correct torque is very important on these sensors--and I did wrap a bit of tape around the threads beforehand.
I had to remove the intake from my '01, as I had to replace the AIR check valve. As everyone recommends, I bought a replacement sender (brass) to replace the OE sender.......which was brass, too!!


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Old Oct 27, 2020 | 04:58 PM
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Bump. Who has a brass one these days? I tried NAPA and O'Reilly today with no luck. Pictures of senders available at Advance Auto (including BWD) all show units that are silver in color. Are brass sending units a thing of the past?
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Old Oct 28, 2020 | 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Napoleon_Tanerite
Bump. Who has a brass one these days? I tried NAPA and O'Reilly today with no luck. Pictures of senders available at Advance Auto (including BWD) all show units that are silver in color. Are brass sending units a thing of the past?
In all my searching I haven't been able to locate a brass one. All of the units that used to be brass are now aluminum. This makes it even more important to relocate it, both to hopefully reduce the failure rate and make it easier to replace if it does fail again.

I looked at all of the different relocation options and opted to cut and extend the wires and place the new unit in the oil galley port that is located near the front of the block on the drivers side. This port has a plug in it that can easily be removed with a 8mm hex (allen). Remove the plug, put your new sensor in (torque to 15 ft/lbs), move the plug to the original location behind the intake manifold (use thread sealant and torque to 15 ft/lbs), cut and extend the sensor wires/connector up to the new location, tie or tape the extended wires along the drivers side fuel rail wiring, and you're done. The first time you do this its easier to remove the alternator so you can get a good look at the oil galley port and work in there, but in the future, the sensor can easily be R&R'ed without removing the alternator. This method is also little to no cost (wire + solder sleeves or splice connectors) and results in a clean install without any additional adapters and hoses.

I went with the Standard Motor Products PS308 sender.

The first 2 pics show the sensor installed in the oil galley port and the 3rd shows the plug that was removed from the oil galley relocated to the original sensor location behind the manifold.




Last edited by 1BadLS6; Oct 28, 2020 at 11:32 AM.
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