Stuck in 3rd
And now the car is stuck in third or neutral..
So I just purchased the car and cant afford to spend a bunch of money on it at the moment since I just got it..
My plans thus far,
-Order a steel 3/4 fork since my car is 02 and I would assume has the aluminum fork.
-order the 3/4 syncro
-order the billet keys and spring kit.
-and whatever the minimum amount of part/seals/gaskets I need to make this car run until winter, then I'll probably send the whole trans to have rebuilt. I know it was tracked a little so its been through its paces.. all this will come from tick performance unless you guys have a better suggestion..
I have a MGW short throw on the car, I don't know if that makes any difference..
I can do the work. I have the tools. I need to know if there is anything else I need though..
So any suggestions? I will be talking again with tick performance in the morning, but I would like to hear from you guys also..suggestions on a good manual also?
Can anyone maybe explain what might have happened? I'm thinking maybe syncro stuck on 3rd, key or spring broke???
Thanks
Jeff
Here's the kit I bought that had everything in it. If you have to go through pulling the trans I would just rebuild. May think about a new clutch too since you have it apart already. Just a thought.
http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/t56-...d-kit-package/
Things are gonna get expensive quick depending on the mileage of the car and previous ownership, I wonder if the P/O knew what was up and decided to dump the car.
Pulling out the drivetrain is a pita the first time around.
Might wanna consider upgrading clutch if its still stock.
Stock Clutch Master Cylinder = LS7 or Twin Disc.
Aftermarket Clutch Master Cylinder = Twin Disc or Single or LS7
Last edited by jimmyLSX; Aug 18, 2016 at 03:57 PM.
And when the car is off, it is still stuck in 3rd or the neutral position just below third. can't move the shifter side to side at all.
Things are gonna get expensive quick depending on the mileage of the car and previous ownership, I wonder if the P/O knew what was up and decided to dump the car.
Pulling out the drivetrain is a pita the first time around.
Might wanna consider upgrading clutch if its still stock.
Stock Clutch Master Cylinder = LS7 or Twin Disc.
Aftermarket Clutch Master Cylinder = Twin Disc or Single or LS7
Drive train removal looks like a job for sure, gotta learn sometime though. Clutch is a spec brand with aluminum flywheel and it has less than 12k on it. I have receipts for all that.
Here's the kit I bought that had everything in it. If you have to go through pulling the trans I would just rebuild. May think about a new clutch too since you have it apart already. Just a thought.
http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/t56-...d-kit-package/
I spoke with Tick performance yesterday and they recommend just pulling the trans and getting in there to see what is going on before they would suggest any further action.
So monday when I get back. my vette comes apart. lol
Thanks for your help guys.
If it makes easier for you, I'm forwarding the invoice to you, and to make easier for the other forum members, here's what I bought:
1 x SPEC Stage 2, 690 Foot Pounds of Torque (LS1 & LS6)
- Flywheel Type: Steel Billet (+$233.10)
- Concentric Hydraulic Release Bea: No
- Clutch Slave Cylinder - without: No
- Clutch Master Cylinder: No
- Aluminum Pressure Plate: No SC092 $619.20 $619.20
Sub-Total: $619.20
Total: $619.20
Thank you for purchasing from BYUNSPEED
http://www.BYUNSPEED.com
Please print this invoice for your records
It was professionally installed by the Corvette specialist in Moyock I told you about.
Car was never really tracked. A few Auto-X sessions in 2012 and one 2 days driving school at VIR in 2014 doesn't quality for clutch abuse. Car was sitting a lot since my daughter was born in 2013, I don't think I drove more than 1000 miles per year after that.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Sorry to hear about the issues. It might be just the linkage, but I suspect it's worse than that...
I have most of the car apart right now. Brakes, control arms, halfshafts, exhaust, torque tube tunnel cover, Intake bridge, Center console and Short throw, and most of wiring harness.. I will be lowering the drivetrain out today sometime.
I have spoke with RPM transmission and I am driving the transmission down to them Monday 08/29/2016 . They are only 3 hours away and a very reputable shop from what I have read on the forum. If all goes well, they said I will be driving back Monday night with a happy transmission.
From what I have researched and read about the t56 m12, it sounds like I maybe sheared a shift key and/or something is definitely wrong with the 3/4 gear syncro.
FWIW, I did order some parts from the Tick Performance website before I decided to take the trans in to someone.
-Steel 3/4 shift fork
-billet keys and springs
-and 3/4 syncro assembly
They called me the next business day to inform me that the 3/4 syncro is sold out from everywhere and that they were going to refund my money for that part and shipping immediately. Fast and Great customer service on their end. Thanks guys at Tick.
I am still deciding if I should order the Tick upgraded master cylinder, for two reasons. First its got great reviews, and second my car has 76k miles so it may be time especially with an upgraded clutch.
As far as the manual subject goes, my plan is to buy the factory manual as soon as I'm done with this situation. And I know that sounds backwards, but I cant afford another $250 right this second.
Hopefully I can have the car all back together by next weekend and possibly make an HPDE event before the summers over.
Thanks for the help and now I'm looking for suggestions for fluids.
So far
-clutch/brakes----Motul 600
Trans-----redline or royal purple--synthetic ATF3
Diff---????? no clear winner yet
The clutch seemed fine for the entire 800 mile trip back from North Carolina. What you are saying about the Tick master cylinder is exactly as I have read.
My daily is an e39 BMW and it seems like lightning shifts compared to the heavy and slow operation of the T56 in the vette. So maybe I'm a little spoiled in that department. I don't need to order it right away since the master cylinder doesn't require the drive-train to be removed for installation. I'll most likely install the trans and everything back in and then see how it drives. I can then decide what to do about the master cylinder if I decide to do anything at all.
... you can make these cars shift really good but it costs a lot of $$$$ to get it that way... on fluids I use motul rbf600 in the brakes/clutch and I have had a good experience with amsoil torque drive atf in the trans and amsoil severe gear 75/90 in the diff
... you can make these cars shift really good but it costs a lot of $$$$ to get it that way... on fluids I use motul rbf600 in the brakes/clutch and I have had a good experience with amsoil torque drive atf in the trans and amsoil severe gear 75/90 in the diffLast edited by Jeffdenney; Aug 27, 2016 at 11:15 PM.
Quick shot of the drivetrain yesterday after i got it removed from the vehicle. I used a floor jack under the torque tube, but I found it much easier to move the drivetrain by myself if I just held the torque tube and bossed the trans jack around with it. So that is why it is sitting on the floor right now..
Then I have the transmission in the trunk of my daily. Headed to RPM at 5am!
Sorry for the caption, it was a snapchat..
Am I gaining experience points yet?? lol
Last edited by Jeffdenney; Aug 28, 2016 at 06:33 PM.














