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Suddenly I have slight vibration between 900-1300rpms which I can’t locate. And engine “maybe” very slightly down in HP. What I’ve done:
- Changed plugs and checked wires… old plugs looked ok.
- NO PCM codes
- No exhaust issues that I can see
- LTFTs are 3-7% lower (depending on rpm range) from year ago
- Motor mounts seem good, but not 100%
Bought new O2 sensors, but I doubt this will help.
I’m thinking maybe catalytic issue, but nothing’s obvious. How can I check this? Bank to bank LTFT discrepancy is minimal <2%.
Does the vibrations happen in gear & out of gear, Clutch depressed & clutch released?
BC
100k miles, mainly HPDE car.
vibration is in neutral or in gear when starting from a stop. Not really noticeable when underway.
Actually after changing O2 sensors seemed to improve it greatly. But right after plugs also had the same impression then came back... so I'll give it a little time. And datalog again after some driving to compare trims and O2 switching.
Last edited by Joshboody; Sep 13, 2016 at 11:19 AM.
Expect fuel trims to change, they do a fantastic job of adjusting for normal wear and tear (dirtier injectors and air filter for example). When I'm using HP Tuners it can be affected by a temperature swing in the same day--so expect a shift after a year.
Going to assume you've checked the basics.
If your baby is higher mileage like mine, over 100K, this may wake things up, costing a few hundred in parts:
1. Remove/clean intake manifold (you will be shocked how much oil is coating the runners). I cleaned the oil out inside the head as well. Replace the gaskets.
2. Professionally clean/balance injectors
3. New O2 sensors--mine were getting lazy according to HP Tuners, and replace MAP sensor
4. I replaced knock sensors with newer style (mine is a '98)
5. Installed a cheap DIY catch can--amazed how much oil it collects
Made a nice difference for me, and the exhaust tips have never been cleaner. Looks good in HPT. It's still not where it was once upon a time, and believe it's the 19 year old cats restricting airflow. I should have done the catch can years ago.
The engine running, CLUTCH DEPRESSED while in gear?? Same vibration???
Bill
Some more detail... still there.
- Same clutch in or depressed. And in gear starting to move.
- rpm range is idle 750ish to 1000... don't feel anytime >1000rpms. Mainly when slight rev up cause difficult to hold steady 900 to 1000rpm. But hold steady at 1200 or revving >1000 do not feel it.
- intermittent... today very noticeable at stop lights and from a stop during 20min drive to store. Then on start up and on my home not there (or very slightly noticeable).
- Do NOT feel in shiftier... more in dash, consul, body.
kinda seems like exhaust resonance thing. Doesn't really seem to be engine related.
Us vette owners are very sensitive, so feel anything different... this is driving me little nuts.
Last edited by Joshboody; Sep 13, 2016 at 10:31 PM.
Get the car in the air and do a hand over hand to the entire exhaust system. Shake it and look for contact points and loose hangers. damaged rubber mounts and broken brackets. Shake the entire system and see if you can feel any body or suspension contact.
Thanks for the notes. I changed O2's because easy and planned to anyway since have 100k miles.
Balancer is marked and not slipping. And has always seemed to wobble since owning the car but think more illusion.
For driveline it's the same in gear, neutral, and clutch in... so FW or PP is possible. Maybe weight fell out, which I can check when doing the mounts.
Feels like exhaust resonance to me, but can't find anything. Ordered cheap motor mounts and will replace sometime. I'll update if I ever find it.
GM dealerships are issued a vibration analyzer, which is supposed to be sophisticated and able to zero in on the source. Talked to a local mechanic who said nobody ever uses it, it's covered with dust. I went to a bigger city and had a GM Certified mechanic use his, and GM told him the vibration was within factory tolerances, even though it evolved since I bought the car. Conventional wisdom seems to be let it go and when/if it gets worse, then diagnose it. Seems primitive this day in age, but that's what I was told.
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
Originally Posted by apex26
GM dealerships are issued a vibration analyzer, which is supposed to be sophisticated and able to zero in on the source. Talked to a local mechanic who said nobody ever uses it, it's covered with dust. I went to a bigger city and had a GM Certified mechanic use his, and GM told him the vibration was within factory tolerances, even though it evolved since I bought the car. Conventional wisdom seems to be let it go and when/if it gets worse, then diagnose it. Seems primitive this day in age, but that's what I was told.
I have a really nice vibration analyzer here. It's called eyes. If I see the thing running out .015, then it needs replaced. It really ain't rocket science.
This whole thing about telling him the crank is bent is bs. The people at the dealership need a good kick in the nuts.
I have a really nice vibration analyzer here. It's called eyes. If I see the thing running out .015, then it needs replaced. It really ain't rocket science.
This whole thing about telling him the crank is bent is bs. The people at the dealership need a good kick in the nuts.
Yup, bent crankshaft is BS. But, sometimes you can't see enough to use your eyes. I talked to Joe at Phoenix--the guys who win national races with these cars, and even he said sometimes they chase a vibration and never find it.
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
Originally Posted by Joshboody
Balancer is marked and not slipping. And has always seemed to wobble since owning the car but think more illusion.
That's not an illusion... And no, it should not look even one bit like it wobbles. It needs replaced. I bet if you put an indicator on it and turn the crank (obviously by hand), you'll see it'll be off by roughly one mile.
That's not an illusion... And no, it should not look even one bit like it wobbles. It needs replaced. I bet if you put an indicator on it and turn the crank (obviously by hand), you'll see it'll be off by roughly one mile.
I'll look into this. But it has looked the same for maybe 15k miles including 20+ track sessions. The vibration is a very recent thing.
I've marked both the bolt and the outside of the balancer with NO movement. I assume a wobble comes from either walking on the crank or outer ring bond slipping?
Part of me wants a bad balancer, cause then I can do cam/heads
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
Originally Posted by Joshboody
I'll look into this. But it has looked the same for maybe 15k miles including 20+ track sessions. The vibration is a very recent thing.
I've marked both the bolt and the outside of the balancer with NO movement. I assume a wobble comes from either walking on the crank or outer ring bond slipping?
Part of me wants a bad balancer, cause then I can do cam/heads
Marking for movement has nothing to do with it. The balancer is a two piece item with a vulcanized rubber liner between the two. There isn't going to be movement per-say, and even if there was it'll still be sitting on a round crank snout so it would be exactly as out of round as it was, out of balance as it was, simply rotated on that shaft.
That balancer weighs 15 pounds. If it's no longer rotating concentric around that crank snout, it's going to vibrate the car. If you can see it wobble, it's bad. No balancer wobbles. yet is in balance. It might not be out far enough to shake the hell outa the car yet, but that day is coming.
I am not as tech savvy as previous responses. I had a vibration experience and it drove me crazy. Well it was the water pump bearings piling up, no leaks or wobbles only some occasional belt noise. I would check all belt driven components first. Good luck.