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I'm upgrading my entire drivetrain and am reinstalling the the driveshaft into the torque tube on my '02Z. The trans side face of the rear bearing housing ever so slightly protrudes into the groove for the large snap ring. This prevents me from being able to fully seat the snap ring. I have tried removing and installing the entire assembly three times now (once with a very light film of oil to help hammer the housing into place) and it stops at the exact same spot.
Is the housing supposed to stop slightly above flush with the groove? I took a pre-snap ring removal picture but not one with the ring removed and the housing still in place so I don't recall if it was flush.
I can only guess the couplers you put in, are slightly thicker than the couplers you took out?
I have a DSS coupler-less carbon shaft, no couplers. Regardless, there is nothing that prevents the the bearing/shaft at the end other from stopping. The stop occurs when the bearing housing cannot be pushed any further into the torque tube. I know this because the first driveshaft I received was 1/4" too long and the front bearing started protruding from the tube.
Here are two more pics. Note the black phillips plug 180 opposite from the gap between the snap ring holes. In the pre-removal pic the bottom of the snap ring is seated further into the slot and covers about half of the plug. In the installing pic it basically isn't seated, covering less of the plug.
I assumed new couplers, but now I see more than that going on. Sure looks nice! I dunno if this helps, but pulled from the service manual.
Measure the distance from the end of the input shaft to the driveline tube front bell housing flange - automatic transmission. The actual distance must be equal to or within 2 mm (0.079 in) of the recorded dimension 3.
A. If the actual distance is not within specifications, use a heat gun and heat the outside of the driveline support tube at the front bearing location.
B. Tap on the rear of the propeller shaft assembly or pull on the input shaft until the shaft has reached the proper position.
I assumed new couplers, but now I see more than that going on. Sure looks nice! I dunno if this helps, but pulled from the service manual.
Measure the distance from the end of the input shaft to the driveline tube front bell housing flange - automatic transmission. The actual distance must be equal to or within 2 mm (0.079 in) of the recorded dimension 3.
A. If the actual distance is not within specifications, use a heat gun and heat the outside of the driveline support tube at the front bearing location.
B. Tap on the rear of the propeller shaft assembly or pull on the input shaft until the shaft has reached the proper position.
Thanks, I looked that up in my 2002 specific service manual and it lists the same info. It's strange that it lists it only for an automatic transmission. I'm not sure how to read "front bearing location" in part A. When I first read it I thought front bearing meaning on the input shaft by the clutch. The second time I thought maybe the front bearing of the bearing housing, which is right in the area of the zoom-in circle for the #2 measurement.
It sounds like the interference fit was designed to be extra snug so that it couldn't spin during heat expansion. Both parts are aluminum but perhaps the tube warms up slightly quicker than the bearing housing flange. But again - only listed for an automatic.
I'll try heating that flange area on the tube and see if it pops in.
BTW, your 9s car makes me feel like I'm just playing with child mods. That TTiX kit is awesome. If only my wife let me spend her salary on Vette mods.
Torque Tube Snap Ring Installation...??
