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Harmonic Balancer replacement + Others???

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Old Nov 4, 2016 | 09:44 PM
  #21  
CindysC5's Avatar
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From: Mooresboro NC
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Originally Posted by Zoidman
Hi Guys!

I just got a call from my dealership saying that I need to replace the harmonic balancer on my 2000 C5. It's an automatic with about 92,000 miles. I agree with the dealership that the balancer should likely be replaced. I've heard some chirping noises from the engine... and already replaced all the belts and tensioners trying to eliminate the chirp.

The dealership wants about 850$ to do the replacement.. ouch

I've read that when you are that far into the engine, it is an excellent time to preventively replace some other parts such as
- Timing Chain
- Oil pump
- Camshaft??

Anything else you would recommend replacing? Is there any reason the cam would wear, and would need to be replace it?


Thanks!!
The water pump is the other thing you should change while in there and have the belt off.
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Old Nov 7, 2016 | 08:19 PM
  #22  
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red03vette
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Originally Posted by Zoidman
Hi Guys!

I just got a call from my dealership saying that I need to replace the harmonic balancer on my 2000 C5. It's an automatic with about 92,000 miles. I agree with the dealership that the balancer should likely be replaced. I've heard some chirping noises from the engine... and already replaced all the belts and tensioners trying to eliminate the chirp.

The dealership wants about 850$ to do the replacement.. ouch

I've read that when you are that far into the engine, it is an excellent time to preventively replace some other parts such as
- Timing Chain
- Oil pump
- Camshaft??

Anything else you would recommend replacing? Is there any reason the cam would wear, and would need to be replace it?


Thanks!!
I also had the front crank seal replaced when the dealer did my HB replacement. Cost wise was about $650, went with the GM balancer so I could get warranty if needed.
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Old Nov 8, 2016 | 10:25 AM
  #23  
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From: Fort Myers Florida
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Originally Posted by Zoidman
I called up the specialty shop in my area, and they were pretty expensive! Quoted me 50$ higher to do the balancer swap than the Chevy dealer where it is at =/

On the plus side, the specialty shop is more like to be willing to use parts I bring in, than a dealership would be. I haven't had a chance yet to ask the dealership if they'd even be willing to to use my parts...

I've read some debates over high volume and high pressure oil pumps. I had an issue with my car on some mountain roads last year, where the oil pressure dropped to a mere 2 PSI after pushing it hard. I've been suspicious of my oil pump ever since.

This is the only reason I'd consider swapping the oil pump out to a high pressure version.

I'm fine with OEM spec part swaps on pretty much everything, unless there is some aftermarket part which my promise longer term reliability.
Our cars have a shutoff valve for the oil filter and if you have high pressure it will just filter dirty oil back in the motor so it wont explode the oil filter from high pressure. High volume high pressure pumps in my opinion are worthless for the street because you are driving under 3500rpms for 90-100% of the time. Besides more pressure and volume is not necessarily good as if the oil is traveling very fast with not a lot of time to cool vital engine parts and high volume high pressure will also rob you of horsepower although very little (maybe 3-6).

Stick with a stock pressure pump but upgrade it to a moroso as they blueprint them for more consistant flow.

Then again I am an old school hot rodder where if we had 6psi at idle we were good and we always wanted less for more power power in our old school 327's and 350's, running as low as 6psi at the track we NEVER ruined any bearings........but we did blow pistons out from going lean from nitrous lol. We wanted more volume for the track (drags) and we also used oil restrictors.

I went off track. Upgrade your balancer to a better then stock; use an ARP bolt; upgrade your oil pump if you have miles over 50K; change out the timing chain and replace all the seals. You will thank yourself for doing it now trust me.
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Old Dec 19, 2016 | 02:59 PM
  #24  
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Zoidman
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From: Los Angeles California
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Wanted to give an update:

I ended up finding a good performance mechanic in my area who was able to swap out the balancer. I swapped out the balancer with a PowerBond PB1117N and used the ARP 2342503 bolt. Labor cost of the job was 400$ and parts ended up being around 120$.

The balancer now rotates smoothly, and the belt tensioner's motion is now very stable. Now time to move to the next issue on my tofix list... lol
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Old Dec 21, 2016 | 05:00 PM
  #25  
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SaberD
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From: Rochester Hills MI
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Here's what I did along with mine:

delrin steering rack bushing
ported oil pump
timing chain
timing chain dampener and bracket
new sprockets
ATI balancer bolt
gatorback belts

This would also be a good time to do a camshaft.
Also if you are considering a 2 piece front cover.
also a good time for front suspension work
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