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Does anyone actually torque their oil filter to 22ft/lbs? I started to but chickened out way before getting there. Just curious I guess, coming from a career in aviation maintenance where I torqued everything. Mike
Did not know there is a torque spec for the oil filter, will try it next time. Some do 1/4 turn after hand tight, but I tighten much more, curious where I am at.
I have always made sure it was free of oil film and hand tighten, have done all my own oil changes plus a bazillion at the Dealer never had one leak !!
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Never have torqued my oil filter. I get it snug, then hand tighten it about 1/4 turn more. Never had a leak and always have been able to get the filter off at the next change.
I do. It's the specification, so it's the correct application.
Thanks for all the responses. KP1, how hard is it to get off when you remove it? I am like most all of the other responders and usually only hand tighten mine but I did find this spec in the service manual and thought I would give it a shot. Thanks again. Mike
It can be a pain if you don't have a quality set of filter wrenches. I learned the hard way that a cheap ill fitting filter wrench will tighten the filter, but it will deform the filter when trying to spin it off and then the struggle begins.
It can be a pain if you don't have a quality set of filter wrenches. I learned the hard way that a cheap ill fitting filter wrench will tighten the filter, but it will deform the filter when trying to spin it off and then the struggle begins.
Been there, done that...had to almost cut one off many years ago. I have a strap wrench just in case. The key phrase is "hand tighten".
I have always spun on until gasket contact, then 3/4 turn. Most times it comes off without a wrench, and if not, minimal effort to remove.
Know someone who had a filter spin off due to not being tight enough. He as on a bridge when it happened and couldn't pull over quick enough. Motor was toast.
I'll bet that the dealer lube techs never use a torque wrench to install an oil filter. Oil filter installation is pretty straight forward. Remove the old filter, check to make sure the old rubber gasket did not stick to the flange, wipe all the old oil off. Apply a thin coat of fresh oil to the new filter gasket and install. When the gasket touches the flange, tighten an additinal 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Done.
Last edited by c4cruiser; Nov 12, 2016 at 09:54 AM.
I am in the process of doing 500 mile change on new Z06. Have installed the filter by hand as I have done for 50 years. Car still on lift so I think I will check torque with wrench to see how close I am.
[QUOTE=c4cruiser;1593453679]I'll bet that the dealer lube techs never use a torque wrench to install an oil filter. Oil filter installation is pretty straight forward. Remove the old filter, check to make sure the old rubber gasket did not stick to the flange, wipe all the old oil off. Apply a thin coat of fresh oil to the new filter gasket and install. When the gasket touches the flange, tighten an additinal 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Done.[/QUOT
Very important to check to make sure the old gasket is still attached to old filter. Saw one time where the old gasket was still on the engine when the new filter was installed over it.. LOTS of oil in a VERY short time was pumped out! Quite the mess! What is the flow rate on a C5 oil pump? Anyone know? Looked like it would empty out a small lake in no time at all.
I read somewhere that the best way to get the filter on tight enough to not leak is to oil the new gasket lightly with fresh oil then hand spin the filter on till it just makes contact to the contact point on the engine. Then tighten 1 turn and start the engine to check for no leaks. Been doing this for about 60 years and no leaks. Important to make sure the gasket from the old filter came off. My son, on his second filter change did not do this and had 2 gaskets on the filter. He oiled the highway for about 2 miles without charging the county for road maintenance.
Pumped out almost 5 qts of oil till he came back. Now he ALWAYS checks to see that the old gasket is off of the contact point.
I am in the process of doing 500 mile change on new Z06. Have installed the filter by hand as I have done for 50 years. Car still on lift so I think I will check torque with wrench to see how close I am.
Well I finished the oil change. Put 9.8 qts in and it was exactly at the top of the hash mark at the full hole.
With regard to the filter I checked it at 18 ft pounds first and it did not click so I pussed out just let it be. I had it on pretty tight by hand. To get it to 22 ft lbs. would be scary I think. My C6 Z pushes more oil pressure than this C7 and I never had a problem with a filter going on or coming off.
I'll bet that the dealer lube techs never use a torque wrench to install an oil filter. Oil filter installation is pretty straight forward. Remove the old filter, check to make sure the old rubber gasket did not stick to the flange, wipe all the old oil off. Apply a thin coat of fresh oil to the new filter gasket and install. When the gasket touches the flange, tighten an additinal 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Done.
You're applying torque to a joint with compressible rubber. You'll never get a repeatable torque reading and I believe the rubber absorbs some oil and expands which should increase the torque. How much is anyone's guess. Hand tight after filter contact with some gasket expansion won't leak and that's the goal.
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