Hey guys. I really need help on something I've had problems with since I got my car 2 years ago and that is my clutch loosing pressure and pedal sticking to the floor after hard accelerations. On full throttle 1st to 2nd is ok, 2nd to 3rd starts sticking to the floor making me have to pull it back up with my foot for 3rd to 4th, then 4th to 5th doesn't have enough pressure to go into 5th. Sometimes it doesn't even have enough pressure to go into 4th...but after I coast or keep a steady speed with light throttle for about a minute or two the pressure comes back and I'm able to shift somewhat normally till I start giving it some gas again. What is causing this problem? Is it my clutch master cylinder even though there doesn't seem to be any leakage around that area? is it the clutch that needs to be replaced even though there isn't any slipping? If I do need to replace the clutch will I have the same problem getting a new OEM clutch? If so, what clutch should I get? Any info you guys could give me on this would be a big help. This was never really a problem for me before cause I never would race my car but now that I am starting to, it is as you can imagine, a BIG problem that I need to fix. I'm supposed to do some laps at the Circuit of the Americas in a couple weeks but I won't be able to if I can't fix this problem. It's a completely stock 2003 Z06.

 

I had this problem with my 99 Frc. Replaced the clutch assembly, slave cylinder and clutch master. I used a GM ls6 assembly and have not had it happen since.

 

I had the same problem with mine and nothing fixed it until I replaced the clutch, in my opinion the pressure plate is the culprit... I would personally go with an aftermarket clutch rather than trying another oem clutch

 

It's a pretty common problem according to all of the forum posts. The pedal on the floor is supposedly an issue with the hydraulics. I started having the same problem after headers/heads/cam project. A local shop full of C5s and C6s swears the Tick Performance master cylinder will cure it. I've read good reviews on the Tick unit.

I've also read dirty fluid can add to the problem. I flushed mine but it didn't fix it. Lingenfelter makes a clutch return spring for the problem, but that seems like a band-aid. Tick sells a complete kit with a LS7 clutch/plate/flywheel/Tick master/GM slave cylinder/bearing/alignment tool/etc. With 65,000 on mine and the above factory HP I'll be doing the full kit in the spring. Hopefully Tick sees this post and give me a discount :-)

 

tick master cylinders are nice but they still may not fix the problem, I tried one on my car before I swapped clutches and it helped but did not fully cure the problem... they are still good to have especially with aftermarket clutches because you have a little wiggle room since they adjustable... the standard bore tick master will also make shifts faster which is another plus... if you don't like the heavier pedal feel of their standard bore master they also offer an oem sized master but that one will not shift quite as fast as their standard bore since it moves less fluid

 

Thanks Neutron. My set-up, even post head/cam (just ported 243s and baby cam) is mild, just over 400HP/380TQ at the wheels and shifting around 6,500 RPM. Do you think the LS7/Tick set up would be adequate? No more mods planned. I want to do the whole clutch set up and be done.

 

I like the tick master but I would stay away from the ls7 clutch personally... it will hold the power fine, that's no problem, but it is designed nearly the same as the c5 clutch and is known to have issues as well... if you are just driving the car around normally it will be fine but if you want to do full wot pulls while shifting through the gears (not just a single gear pull) or plan to race it at the drag strip I wouldn't get that clutch

 

I had the same problem keep your clutch fluid clean

 

Yeah, I have a feeling my issue isn't just the master cylinder so I have made the decision to replace the whole clutch assembly since I'm way overdue for a new clutch anyway. And since I need the whole clutch assembly, I gotta find that Tick kit you just mentioned. I did some searching on it and it seems that everyone swears by it.
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...-corvette-z06/
Thanks for the guideance guys!

 

I put in a dual disc McLeod RXT and a new GM slave and all is good with my 600 rwhp after doing blasts.
Feels like stock.
The Tick masters eliminate the pedal spring and
are too stiff for a street car IMO so be aware of the 20% extra
pedal pressure.

 

Hey buddy sorry to hear about your problems!
Ive got a 03 z also! So does my buddy, we are in San Antonio too!
Ive got a mcleod rxt and new slave in mine. My buddies 03z has 50k miles on it and at the track last month it started doing the same issues, we just put in a mcleod rst in his with a new oem slave!
We did this in the garage!!
Last Wednesday nite. In 3hrs put the car in the air and removed cradle, diff trans tt 1piece, then the clutch and flywheel.
Thursday took flywheel to machine shop to get resurfaced. Then installed the clutch and tt and bleed with new remote bleeder, about 2hrs.
Saturday night. 4hrs install trans and diff together, then cradle.
Took for a short drive.
I totally recommend the mcleod twin disc, my rxt is still easier pedal than stock and his rst is alot softer than stock.
I also recommend dte brace for the diff and trans at the same time, and also c6z output shafts if going to be doing any drag racing!!
If you need any help or questions let me know!!
Or just to cruise.
Mine is blue and my buddies is yellow!

 

Wow, are you kidding me..? I didn't see that from ANY of the searching I did...OR FROM THE TICK WEBSITE. that's a BIG bummer because I really just want it to feel stock since it's my daily driver..
That's really messed up because people like me are just looking for an aftermarket direct replacement from the OEM part and apparently this isn't that.. I mean if that's what it takes to be able to drive the car the way it's supposed to be driven then I guess I could put up with the extra 20%.

 

Oh nice! We should hit up one of the local meets sometime! Mine is black and my Dad's has this sick flame paint job.
By the way, would you be interested in helping me replace my clutch? I've read the guide and it seems pretty straight forward but I'd really like someone there that has done it before. Our garage has a 4-post lift and all the tools needed to replace the clutch. In exchange for your help, you could use our lift whenever you need. I could also throw in some money too. I totally understand if you can't, I just thought I'd offer a deal that would be beneficial for us both and of course it's always more fun working on cars with some friends!

 

If you make a piece like this and get another heim end if you don't have a reverse tap you can use the factory spring but it will still be stiffer maybe 10%



It's still adjustable but you have to take the heim end off the pedal to turn it.



I added a hardware store spring which gave me a stock pedal feel but because it pulled the pedal down a bit at rest it eventually started throwing a clutch pedal code so I went with the 2004 Z06 master which has worked great.



I have the ECS trans brace, fixed my wheelhop

 

Totally down bro!! No $$$$ that aint right!!!
Pm me and ill send you my number!
The first time i did on my car felt like forever to do plus i didn't know anything, 2nd time walk in the park!!!
I still recommend mcleod twin and oem slave with a remote bleeder. Mike Mak at tps motorsports can hook you up with good deal on clutch and bleeder and gene at cultrag can hook you up with great price on a slave.








Not to hard on your back in the garage, i could just image how easy on a lift!!!

 

Awesome! I was really hoping you would say yes! And I'm also glad you declined the money (must be a true enthusiast cause I would have done the same ) cause I don't really have anymore money to give after ordering the LS7 Tick Performance kit...haha. I already ordered it yesterday or I would have got what you recommended cause I'm gonna be super bummed if I have this problem again... But when I spoke to the lead mechanic at Freedom Chevrolet about my clutch problems he did mentioned that the clutch issues are mainly caused by hydraulic failure, not really an issue with the clutch itself so I think I'll be fine with the LS7 clutch and beefed up Tick Performance master and slave cylinders. Just PMed you my number so we could talk about it more over the phone, text, PM, or whatever

Oh yeah, I could imagine it will be a LOT easier!

 

Just wanted to post an update, everything has been going really well just taking a very long time since I'm doing it all by myself. I have a couple of questions but first here's some update pics:







Out with the old



and in with the new!



I noticed the new flywheel from the Tick Performance LS7 clutch kit is A LOT heavier than my stock LS6 flywheel. Will I notice any issues with that? I like how fast the revs drop when I push in the clutch instead of hanging up a bit before falling down like my C6 that is in my avatar.

Should I smear some oil on the crankshaft seal before I put the flywheel and new clutch on just to help prolong it's life?

 

Moved to C5 Tech as requested by the OP.

 

Lots of hot spots on the PP and FW?

 

Before you get any further, PLEASE CALL ME. We need to discuss some IMPORTANT stuff you may be overlooking.

PM SENT...

Bill