I am in the tail end of the install. Hurst in there but I need to get a reducer coupling for my torque wrench to hook up to the little T-30 (works). While at the hardware store I will also buy some equivalent to dynamat to shove in there. The silicon idea on threads prior to installing the shift **** by "seanr" makes sense and I will do this too. I want the factory **** to work.

Oh yeah, I will drive it without the **** first. if no rattle, then the **** goes on. If it rattles after that with the silicon then stock **** :smash: gets tossed to the curb and I will make an order today for aftermarket.

Maybe I will be one of the lucky no problem ones.

 

My shifter definitely makes alot of noise just putting around town. It is the shift **** (MGW Gripper) that is rattling. I can take it off and enjoy rattle free driving. I thought I screwed it down as far as it would go and the set screw is tightened down pretty snugly, any ideas?

Patrick :cheers:

 

Ill trade you for my ripper, it is quiet but firm. :)

 

Good luck, I pulled mine apart, adjusted the spring tension to make R and 6 a little easier.

Put it back together with an unbelievable amount of sound deadener.

So much that I'm distorting the console a little and having trouble keeping my Active Handling plastic piece thingee snapped in - it just barely stays.

Very quiet on startup. I must have had a bad seal on the rubber grommet thing first time around.

NOW for the road trip. RATTLE RATTLE RATTLE -- No better at all. Didn't really expect it to be, as I hadn't done anything to quiet that.

NEXT Drive it without the shifter **** (you should see my hand! :eek:

ALMOST NO RATTLE!!! Certainly well within the acceptable realm.

So, I got to thinking, maybe it is that darned demon key - what's left of it..

Took it off, tightened the shifter as tight as possible by hand and didn't put that plastic cap on the top either.

STILL RATTLED.

So... here's where I am now. Heading to a shop to get a ball or something to get me through the weekend.

QUESTION: Is this happening because the threads are narrow since the demon key is supposed to spread them out?

Would the factory **** not rattle if I whack the key down far enough (never to be removed again!!!). I don't wanna find out the hard way.

I suppose if worse came to worst, you could drill the pin out.

Well, it isn't the Hurst shifter - you can all breath a sigh of relief. But it's still a pain!

 

Tom, I wouldn't do anything drastic to the demon key. As I have said my Billet **** was wisper quiet, now that I am using the Delrin Hardbar the shifter is noisy. (my stock **** was noisy also) I don't think you will be in a good mood if you whack the poopie out of that pin, just to find that it still rattles. Maybe you have a local Vette store there, and you can test drive a few in stock ***** to see which one is best. :cheers:


[Modified by racer44, 2:27 PM 9/20/2002]

 

[Modified by jschindler, 3:42 PM 9/20/2002]

 

Have you got the fore and aft throw stop screws in place ? Try screwing them in until they touch the shifter then add another half turn or so before threadlocking them in place. See if that helps the rattle for you.

 

Well,

I bought a new demon key, just for the heck of it - $5.26 + tax. RAPE!

I am going to read the Helms manual and see if there are any solutions to shifter rattle.

I also did the best I could with so little time, at least to hopefully get me through until I can find a quiet shifter.

Pep Boys had some ricer section and a universal leather/chrome shifter for $20. I'm gonna try it and see. I didn't buy the neon or black light shifters though... :D

It doesn't even thread on, it uses allen set screws. As long as they don't sit on the threads, shouldn't be a problem and if it doesn't rattle, it will do until I can find a shift **** that is quiet.

 

Yeah, I adjusted them first thing. Plus, driving without a **** is almost perfect, so I there is something in the **** rattling.

Thanks,

 

Try lining the inside of your shift boot with any dense material thats flexible. I used 2 layers of leather and it eliminated all noises.....also start the car without the shift ****....that could be part of the problem.

 

Ok, the shift **** from pep boys didn't really help much.

Got to looking at the demon key (the new one that I haven't chewed to pieces taking it in and out, it actually has a stop in the bottom of the ****, so you can't over seat it...

I am thinking next to try a thick coat of black permatex on the threads, screw it down, hammer the key in and let it sit and dry.

It is really frustrating to be able to drive the car without a **** and have it be quiet, but no matter what **** I use, it rattles!

Anyone here try the stock ****, have it rattle, and then find an aftermarket **** they found didn't rattle at all - or very nearly?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

On a lighter note, I think I can change a shifter in about 25 minutes now! :D

 

Tom,

Your misery :( brought up some good points for my install today, sorry you aren't pleased with things right now but thanks for sharing the ordeal.

Unfortunately I could not find any dynamat (ordered some, in on 9/23) but I pressed ahead. I buttoned it all up to go for my test drive sans **** and with a leather work glove (Thanks for the warning Tom ;) ) for shifting. All shifts were there, this baby is going to be nice :cool: at the track, should be no missed 2-3 shifts. On to the noise issue though, no rattles observed, I tried all different gears/rpms on the highway. No rattle but lots of feedback noise compared to stock but this was no surprise to me. In third gear going 75mph I turned the radio on and I was satisfied because it sufficientyl muffled the noise associated with any aftermarket shifter IMO. I think the dynamat should quiet things up nicely.

I know!! Your rattle is associated with the ****, but I wanted to make it clear to others who might be on the wire about getting one of these. Must be the ****? I am going to wait till dynamat comes so I don't have to jerk around with the demon key 4 or 5 times. Once that is installed I will silicon the shifter threading, put **** on, set the key, give the silicon some time to work its magic and give it a go. I hope that is it and back to happy days again.

Tom, let us know how the silicon worked. Best of luck to you and yes I agree a $50K+ sports car should not have such issues. :cheers:

Worst case for anyone doing this, you can always go back to the stock.

If there are any "no-mechanic" types like me reading this thread, I urge you to save the install cost and do it yourself. Take your time and it is easy.

 

I really really wanted a Hurst in my Vette. I've used Hurst shifters in other cars with excellent results, but I doubt I'll get one for my Vette. The stock shifter sounds better each time I read a thread about the rattles and noise from the Hurst.

This product sounds much to familiar these days. A once good product ruined by a "bean counter". :cry The Hurst for the C5 was very late comming to market. What was it? 18 months beyond the announced release date? It looks like they could never perfect the product with the money allowed so they just released what they could. Sad.

Thanks for the honest report guys.

Tom



[Modified by TCW, 8:09 PM 9/20/2002]

 

Stock **** on Hurst shifter here. Completely satisfied, Would NEVER use a stock shifter again. I had slight rattle at first but after break in it basically got completely quiet.

 

Tom - yes, my stock **** rattled. The Momo does not.

 

An interesting data point, my stock shifter had a VERY MILD rattle to it - and my 2000 coupe did not. So I may have something somewhere that isn't dead solid perfectly balanced.

The car is smooth overall, but there may be a tendency toward a vibration in the driveline that is being amplified by the solid Hurst shifter.

Someone with a more balanced drivetrain might not experience the same troubles.

OTOH, there are a LOT of people who say the stock **** rattled for them, so it appears to be an issue for a fair number of cars.

For the person who said Hurst was ruined by the bean counters (Mr. Gasket I suppose) - the unit LOOKS well built. The only thing they should seriously consider is a Hurst unit with a shift-stick designed like the factory one with the bushings or isolators or whatever is inside it to dampen the noise.

That would be a nice compromise for those of us looking to improve upon stock, without adding noise.

I'll play with it some more tomorrow and report back.

 

Tom,

Sounds like a lot of work for what should have been an easy mod. I tried the Hurst for a while and got tired of the constant noise, rattle, and stiff downshifts. I was using only 1 spring - the softest- and it was too stiff for day to day driving. I don't drag race. I used pipe insulation to fill the hole in the rubber cover. It was a cheap solution. Decided I did not want to spend more $ for new **** so sold the shifter on the forum.

Mybe I'll wait and see if the Hurst improves over time or someone else comes out with a "new" better shifter.

Good Luck

PS


:)

 

Good luck with getting it the way you need it to be...

 

Tom,

Where did you get a virgin demon key? The dealer had them in stock or ? Mine took a beating but it should be fine for the job. Wouldn't mind owning another though.

 

I was heading to Pep Boys to get a cheapo **** to try, and stopped in at the local Chevy dealer. I didn't even have the demon key in mine, I just had to stock **** screwed in and sliding around.

I unscrewed it and brought it in to the parts dept. Told (and showed) the guy what I needed. Told him what car and year and he fiddled around on the computer for a little bit and went to a shelf and pulled out a ziplock bag and pulled one out. Looked like he had two or three, and I was gonna buy some extras, until I found out it cost $5.26! That's highway robbery so I just got one.

I recall having to get some pressure plate bolts from Ford once back in the 80's and the parts dept had them in stock. I asked how much and they said "don't worry about it."

Times have changed!