I am getting ready to have the clutch done on my 2002 Z06. 111k miles and I do not know the history. I am having the trans and diff rebuilt with new bearings and clutches at the same time. Has to be all stock for SCCA Solo A Street use.

What else should I replace while it is open?

I will do the rear main seal and the two rear wheel hubs at the same time. What else? I have read that there is some gasket near the back of the engine that should be done when the clutch is done?

I am getting the LUK gold clutch kit with flywheel. GM wants $1100 for the clutch with flywheel and I have found the LUK as cheap as $237 with flywheel. Anything bad about LUK? I think they are OEM anyway.

Thanks!

 

Slave cylinder, throw out bearing and master cylinder, torque tube bearings and bushings, new flywheel bolts, pilot bearing.
But the most important thing is to make sure the shop that does the clutch knows to match balancing the flywheel/pressure plate combo to the old ones.

 

PILOT BEARING is a MUST!!! Match Mark the old flywheel to the crank and match balance the clutch, flywheel and pressure plate assy to the old one.

I would also see if its permissible to add in a remote slave cylinder bleeder kit so you can keep the slave cylinder supplied with nice clean fluid and free of any air! Its just a braded hose and a couple fittings but it critical to install if you want to bleed the system easily.


Disassemble the TT and replace the rubber couplers with GM REPLACEMENTS. Inspect the TT Bearings!

You can replace the differential output shafts, limited slip clutches and clutch Belleview springs with C6 ZO6 parts for a good up-grade of stronger parts. Your springs are most likely damaged/cracked.

 

Thanks for the info. The guy is a Corvette racer so he knows his stuff.

 

I would stay away from the LUK Gold, Autozone has THE GM factory style clutch for the Z06. It comes with flywheel for about $430.

Replace the Pilot bearing, master and slave cylinders, throwout bearing. Put a remote clutch bleeder on, check the input shaft for wear and polish it if not to bad.

Look up the hot balance procedure on the clutch replacement or you'll have a low rpm vibration.

Wiggle the input shaft and check for torque tube wear.

Both LUK and Valeo made the GM factory clutch and the LUK gold isnt it. I bought the GM clutch from Autozone and it's in my car. Same clutch is in 2000-2002 F-Bodies.

Don't disturb the rear cover gasket, if it's not leaking leave it alone.

 

my zo6 had a hole that line up with hole on flywhee for indexing.

i just fired up mine with new flywheel and clutch with drive-train left out and feels smooth as silk with out balancing.Now to make the decision to see if i can get some one to balance them or not lol

 

Hello Bill, I posted this on the forum looking for help.......
Now for the balance. I took my new kit to a Machine shop here in the Vegas area. I said that I need to match balance my old flywheel with my new one. I also said that GM balances the Harmonic balance, Flywheel and engine as a Matched set so I need to insure that my flywheel is the same balance as the one coming out. Fultz machine shop said that is not how it works. The engine is not externally balanced and the balance marks on the new flywheel is balanced to GM specs. So….No match balance is necessary.

I need some help before I Install my new clutch. Does anyone know the real story? Is the new flywheel ok to install as is? There are only a very few Vette shop in the Vegas area so my choices are limited. Any help on would be greatly appreciated.

I looked into the GM manuals and have found nothing that states to match balance a new Flywheel. Consider this. The old flywheel has no weights on the back of the flywheel or pelits on the front, only drill holes on the front. The new LUK flywheel is basically the same. No additional weights and is specific to the LS1. Do you hve any GM data?

 

Consider the Katech Remote Bleeder. It is supposed to be better than other brands. I would also use Castrol SRF fluid for better heat protection. For a master cylinder, you might want to go with a Tick for less pedal travel, but it is more expensive. Other options "while you're in there" would be a transmission tunnel brace and a polyurethane transmission mount. Tunnel brace will help with torque tube heat as well as chassis stiffness. Transmission mount will help with acceleration, but will transmit a little more noise, however.
Since you have the exhaust out, replacing the H-Pipe with tn X-Pipe will help your exhaust flow. (Again more expense, but an option).
New O2 sensors may be in order as a preventative maintenance item depending on how old yours are. I would wrap the lines in a heat reflecting tape like Del City Thermashield Fiberglass Wrap Sleeve. To secure the ends I used a good HVAC reflective tape from Home Depot. I used this stuff on all of the lines and wires that are in close proximity to the exhaust.
Check out your lower ball joints. When I did my clutch, the rubber boots were totally gone. I went with Moog that have the Zerk fitting.

These are just suggestions and by no means mandatory due to the extra cost.

Good luck.

Spaggs

 

Did you check the thread in which you asked this yesterday?