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As a little background I recently replaced a SPEC 3.5 pressure plate due to vibration (turned out to be a bent drive strap), which was unusual given its rated torque. After replacement the car is vibrating again, although differently, leading me to believe the pressure plate failing was just the effect and not the cause.
For the current issue, vibration increases linearly with RPM, and when the clutch is depressed the vibration is not present. When driving with higher RPMs and the clutch is depressed to shift, vibration is momentarily much more pronounced (this is when the prior pressure plate failed). Therefore it seems as though the clutch is steadying the input shaft and once the clutch is disengaged the input shaft/driveshaft is free to vibrate wildly.
Does this seem like fault of the rubber couplers, bearings, input shaft, or drive shaft? Looking to buy parts ahead of time to minimize down time. Thanks in advance for any help!
So at low RPM's when the clutch is pressed in the vibration stops, when you press the clutch in at high RPM's the vibration gets worse? That is strange. I am anxious to hear what others come up with.
So at low RPM's when the clutch is pressed in the vibration stops, when you press the clutch in at high RPM's the vibration gets worse? That is strange. I am anxious to hear what others come up with.
I suppose I could have worded that better. At low RPMs the vibration can't really be felt whether clutch is in or out. I simply meant that with the clutch disengaged the car can be revved up fully starting from idle with no vibration (indicating the problem is in the drivetrain rather than engine).
I suppose I could have worded that better. At low RPMs the vibration can't really be felt whether clutch is in or out. I simply meant that with the clutch disengaged the car can be revved up fully starting from idle with no vibration (indicating the problem is in the drivetrain rather than engine).
Ok. That is making a little more sense. I read your description, again and it sounds like you still have an issue with the flywheel or clutch. If you put in the clutch and the vibration worsens at high RPM, that would indicate you have a balance issue with the flywheel. How long was the clutch in before the vibration showed up, again?
I would check the pilot bearing and the front TT input shaft bearings. The rubber couplers could also be part of the problem but you wont know until you tear down the drive train
If you depress the clutch while the car is running at speed (engine idling clutch depressed car coasting) do you get the same vibrations? Example: Run second gear out to red line, depress the clutch and allow the car to coast down to a slow speed. Do you feel the vibrations during that coast down period????
That test would tell you if its TT related.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Jan 18, 2017 at 11:15 AM.
Ok. That is making a little more sense. I read your description, again and it sounds like you still have an issue with the flywheel or clutch. If you put in the clutch and the vibration worsens at high RPM, that would indicate you have a balance issue with the flywheel. How long was the clutch in before the vibration showed up, again?
Well in the high RPM situation described the vibration is only momentary (1/2 second) after clutch in, followed by smooth. The vibration was apparent immediately after replacement, so I believe whatever caused the clutch to fail prior to replacement is likely the culprit and why vibration is still present.
Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
I would check the pilot bearing and the front TT input shaft bearings. The rubber couplers could also be part of the problem but you wont know until you tear down the drive train
If you depress the clutch while the car is running at speed (engine idling clutch depressed car coasting) do you get the same vibrations? Example: Run second gear out to red line, depress the clutch and allow the car to coast down to a slow speed. Do you feel the vibrations during that coast down period????
That test would tell you if its TT related.
Bill
I'll certainly check both the pilot and torque tube bearings once apart, though the pilot was just replaced (correct orientation) about 50 miles ago with the clutch so I'd hope it wouldn't fail so quickly. Vibrations are too fierce to feel comfortable taking it all the way to redline, but I'll give your scenario a try tomorrow and update with some results.
If you depress the clutch while the car is running at speed (engine idling clutch depressed car coasting) do you get the same vibrations? Do you feel the vibrations during that coast down period????
Bill
There are in fact vibrations during during coast down while in gear so my thoughts weren't completely misplaced.
I'll likely buy couplers and wait to see what the condition of the bearings is. If there was a way to change bearings without a press I'd buy them as well and just do it all myself. Great test though
There are in fact vibrations during during coast down while in gear so my thoughts weren't completely misplaced.
I'll likely buy couplers and wait to see what the condition of the bearings is. If there was a way to change bearings without a press I'd buy them as well and just do it all myself. Great test though
If you are replaceing them with OEM style couplers,,,, Get the GM OEM Couplers and DO NOT install any GM Aftermarket look alikes! Like the DORMAN replacements. They will not hold up!!