there is considerable amount of space between the wheel well and body, so my thinking was to put it on the body !!

 

That is how I did it (put it on the body). But getting the stuff to stick upside down was a real challenge. Of course, I used mass-loaded vinyl which is rather heavy.
I had to re-do most of mine with something called Plio-bond
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search...iobond&x=0&y=0
Comes in a few different formulations. Sort of a contact-cement-rubber-cement product. When used per the instructions it gripped instantly.

It never occurred to me to do the plastic fender liners until I had seen some others on here who did it that way.

 

The Fat Mat is very very sticky !!! once it's on good luck getting it off !!

 

There's 5 or 6 screws that hold the plastic wheelwells in.
You take out the screws and the wheelwells come right out.
The car has a metal wheelwell structure under the plastic so only 1 layer space for Frost King.
You can get the Frost King wheelwell back in.
You'll see.
Moisture is not an issue.

 

Same deal with the Co-Fair peel-and-seal (or whatever it is called) - sticks like a leech.
But the Mass-loaded vinyl is way more effective. One layer of MLV does more vibration damping and sound absorption than 3 layers of the Co-Fair/Fatt Matt/DynaMat.

 

Great ideas here, figured the front page would think so too...
https://www.corvetteforum.com/articl...und-dampening/

 

How about that.

 

I have to rephrase my question from yesterday.
Where do you start in the rear luggage compartment, the area under the hatch, in the coupe, to pick up the rug so you can lay the insulation down on the body panels?
I know how to get the front carpet off, removing the seats and console, but I am interested in the area in the rear of the car.
If you just do the rear, without the front floors, console sides, and doors, will there be much, if any, noise reduction? Seems to me there would be some, as most of the noise is probably road and tire noise, but there is also wind noise at speed, especially with the glass top on compared to the regular painted top. I'm thinking of just doing the rear hatch area, at least first, and starting from there.

 

Article says "The latter is made of open-cell foam and can absorb water." -
That is incorrect. Peel and Seal is not open-cell foam, and it will not absorb water.
I would not trust the linked article based on this major error.

 

I did the whole interior for heat as well as sound, I found that the rear panel (tail lites) allowed much exhaust noise in the car, so I installed this in that panel. and yes you can take out just the rear carpet.

L&M truck parts

 

How? Where do you start? How do you get it up? (The carpet I mean)
And how much noise reduction from just doing the rear, ie,. from the seats back to the tail lights?

 

the only thing holding it down is the targa top holders, compartment covers, take the net holders off (unscrew) same with the tail light covers, I did mine 3 years ago now so it's not completely clear but self explanatory !! also I did the entire interior so I can't answer how much it helped.

 

I definitely support cost saving, as long as the inexpensive route does not cause any problems and achieves the desired result. I've been looking into projects like this for a while now. For an elementary education on automative sound deadening, I really appreciate all of the information available from Sound Deadener Showdown.
I recommend reading all you can from this site before deciding exactly how to proceed. On this job, strategy and technique matter as much or more than the materials you use, and finding the right strategy and technique is 100% free. Different materials accomplish different goals, so knowing the difference between dampeners, barriers, absorbers, and decouplers will help you to prioritize and prevent you from wasting your time and your limited monetary investment. One of the nice things about this project on a budget is that you can prioritize the major trouble spots in the short term, then progress toward full-coverage in stages as your budget allows. This might be a better way to go that doing the whole thing as cheap as possible.

One thing I've noticed is that very few of the professionals seem to do much on the exterior where the materials will be exposed to the elements.

I think Noico products are a good middle-of-the-road alternative between Dynamat/Hushmat on the high side, and Peel&Seal/FrostKing on the low side.
Noico 50mil Butyl
Noico Closed-Cell Foam

Good Luck!

 

I bought a pre-cut kit from vette nuts. I will post back once its installed. I was going to wait until I ordered new seats and do it all at once, but it appears to be very simple to remove stuff, so I plan on doing it as soon as the kit arrives.

 

I attached a picture. It has 20"R/19"F HRE 542r wheels on it. I am trying to find someone with some stock C5 wheels and tires to trade. I'd like to go as close to stock as possible. Ordered a pre-cut sound kit from vette nuts. Will post once it arrives...

 

Stuffing insulation in the wheel wells is laughable and the most ghetto attempt I have seen ever. Seriously

 

I will sure read the post you provided. Thanks for the information.

 

maybe a dumb question but when installing any of these products is there any advantage in sealing any joints, in particular a vertical to horizontal one? If so what do you use?

 

Maybe, but it seems to work for him and it's undamaged after 2 years and driving in the rain.

 

The idea is to fill the hollow cavity so soundwaves can't bounce around in there like a drum.
You could cut blocks of roofing insulation and/or use "Great Stuff" yellow insulating foam in a can or together as well.

It hasn't gotten wet or moldy nor has the Frost King soaked up any water.