Obviously, you're convinced you need/want a push button start......

 

So...

The system is in. Here are my thoughts.

The system I used is an iKEY system from Digital Guard Dawg. Other companies sell what seems to be essentially the same product. They also sell an iKEY RS for those who want remote start capability.

First off... the bad.
I would not buy from this company again. I initially sent them an email with some product questions. They responded to this email by calling me within an hour or so. And provided all the info I wanted, resulting in my purchase.
However, some of what they said turned out to be not quite accurate.
During my phone conversation, I mentioned that I had checked with every shop within 10 miles, and nobody sold or installed systems like this. I was told that as part of their efforts to get stores to carry their products, that DGD would call shops in the purchasers area and offer them support and information for the installation. The idea being that I pay them for the installation, the shop decides it's a cool product, and they start to carry it. Makes sense.
Never happened. And a phone call and email asking for an update on this issue went unanswered.
That's ok. I"m fairly handy. I know my way around a multimeter. And one of my kids has a BS in electronic engineering, and an MS in mechanical engineering.
Installing the system took about 6 hours. Not unreasonable.
We ran into issues with programming the system, however. Phone calls to DGD requesting tech support went unanswered. After enough tinkering, we did find solutions and get the system programmed. Programming took about 8 hours, mostly spent tinkering.

The good.
The system performs exactly as expected. Doors lock when I walk away. Unlock when I walk to the car. The trunk popper works correctly. Lights flash when and how they should. And the car starts with the push of a button.

As regards the concerns people expressed:
If you drive away without the fob, you'll get from the garage clear out to the driveway before it shuts you down.
If the battery in the fob dies, there is a card in my wallet which, when placed above the sensor, will unlock the car and let me start it up and drive away (probably to the store to buy a battery...).
If the car battery dies, you can unlock the door with your key. The fob is hollow, and has a removable plug designed specifically to hold a door key. So you can open it up, pop the hood, and jump it.
The start button covers the ignition switch. If the entire system were to be beamed out by the Enterprise, I could pop the button off, put in the key, and drive away.

Overall, I'm quite happy with the system. I'd just recommend buying it from someone other than DGD.

 

Since you asked, some of the problems that popped up were: When a 12 volt control system was tried and the starter was turned on it would rapidly cycle on and off; this was caused by the starter load reducing the car electrical system to about 7 volts which is normal, this caused the power relays to drop out and the voltage to go back to 12 volts. Changing the control system to 5 volts and using solid state relays fixed that. When four switches were used to evaluate the four main circuits, the first three would turn on but not the starter circuit. The car computer only allows the ignition start circuit to be on when the starter is engaged, the accessory and ignition run circuits have to be turned off first, just like the stock ignition switch does. Once the car starts and the starter is turned off those two circuits can be turned back on. Inside the ignition switch there is a SPDT switch that tells the car computer if the key is in or out of the tumbler, since there is no key or tumbler and a switch or relay is wired in for a substitute, the car doors won't lock if the switch says there is a key in. I like the single start button that does acc, ignition, start, and off compared to the three button GM system, the key is only needed to unlock the doors if the fob battery dies. Here's an old video that shows the single button in operation;.

 

One of the things I've noticed on cars built since 2008 is that you can't actually bump the starter. To start the car, all you have to do is bump the key. The computer takes over and engages the starter until the motor starts.

 

Things go full circle. A separate dash mounted ignition switch and starter button were common many years ago. Then it became a combined switch and starter switch. Then it got stuck in the side of the column where it also formed a column lock.

Then as electronics became common, it migrated back to the dash (C5 for example), and now the use of fob proximity and a starter button is common. Nothing to do with function, all to do with marketing. And if any of the electronics have a hiccup, your car is immobile.

Me? I would happily have stuck with the lock in the column. Face it, you only use it once at the start of your journey, so where it is os of no great concern, IMO.

Had the C5 had a column switch, there would not have been all those column locking issues for starters.

 

The system I installed allows you to bump the starter.

 

I have it in my 2014 Sonata, it's easy to get hooked on the bells and whistles but when problems develop it's a whole bunch harder to diagnose. I miss the old days in that respect.
From what I've read there are more cars stolen nowdays than ever before and just think, they didn't even have inside hood releases or steering locks on most cars till the early 70's. All that was needed was a wire from the battery to the coil and jump the starter connections and that was it.

 

Here's an interesting scenerio, I wonder what happens if you push the button, the starter starts cranking but for whatever reason the engine doesn't start. Do you just hit the button again to stop the cranking?
I have a 2014 Sonata with push button start and never thought about that situation till now. Surely it has to be designed that way I would think but I don't know that yet.

 

Mine only cranks as long as I press the button, the newer cars must have a timer programmed into the computer to prevent the starter from burning out.

 

Mine works exactly like using the key. I hold the button, it cranks. I stop pushing, it stops cranking.

 

I think you completely missed the point. The computer in new cars keeps cranking the engine even with a keyed ignition. Of course, the manufactures DID imagine that the engine might not actually start some day and put a timer into the logic.

 

Yeh, that's what I was wondering if it actualy had a timer or you just hit the button again to stop the starter if the car didn't start.
I know The new Rams and others have the system you actualy put Proximity key in the switch and you just turn it and it cranks by itself too just like the push button system but I know with them you could just turn the key to off if it didn't start, we have them at work.
The push button is just a button, I know you can put it in different positions like Acc. and such without starting the engine, I was just wondering if it stops by itself on a nonstart or if you have hit the button again to stop the cranking. I don't think the manual mentions it, It's always started and I've never heard any conversations about that part of these new systems if the starter is already engaged and the car won't start.


I think we ought to go back to just the toggle switch and the Hand Crank system.

 

Go pull your fuel pump fuse and try it. It'll time out after a few seconds of cranking.

 

Thanks for the updates! All very informative and I appreciate your efforts all across the board on this upgrade subject.

I see you had some horsing around to deal with, so I wonder is this something that an electronically inexperienced person should not attempt?

Or if the seller of the kit is "tech help reliable", would this help avg Joe get through it successfully?

 

My feeling is that if the company is actually going to provide tech support, the average DIY guy can probably handle this. It's certainly not plug-&-play like most stereo installs, but if you've got some support and are reasonably comfortable with a multimeter, you can manage.

 

For those who installed a kit, how did the kit connect to the car wiring?

 

Perfect! Thank you very much!

 

Cut, strip, splice, repeat.