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I have heard of a couple of instances of this type of failure on forced induction applications where a lot of tension is required on the belt - one of the reasons why I bought this billet-pullied, high-capacity water pump.
Yes, have seen this on several truck "LS" engines, where the pump pulley was not centered or balanced. They usually let go quickly though, no where near 70k miles. Also, the pumps that I have seen fail were all aftermarket.
[QUOTE=Patches;1594227326]I have heard of a couple of instances of this type of failure on forced induction applications where a lot of tension is required on the belt - one of the reasons why I bought this billet-pullied, high-capacity water pump.
I get so sick of you posting these incredible pictures of your gorgeous car and parts !!!! have a little sympathy for us mere mortals !!
How was the harmonic damper? If that was wobbling it might have fatigued the water pump pulley.
Patches, the pump is beautiful. Does it use the original thermostat?
Yep. Description below:
PRWs high flow aluminum water pumps are engineered to deliver an increased water flow. These super velocity pumps significantly improve cooling for all street, high performance and racing applications. PRW High Performance Aluminum Water Pumps provide increased coolant flow, block pressure, and balanced delivery. Each pump features low pressure-injected, aluminum alloy pump bodies that are complemented by a cold-rolled carbon steel impeller of a closed-captured multi-van axial design with double-welded front and rear faceplates.This helps minimize engine hot spots at any speed.
Equalized water flow distribution and pressure balanced water passages minimize internal engine hot-spots making these pumps an excellent alternative for not only racers, but also trucks, towing, and motorhome applications. Cruisers and hot rodders will appreciate the improved cooling at low speeds and the availability of polished aluminum water pump bodies for nearly every application.
Benefits/Characteristics
Bearing steel alloy 3/4 shafts
Road Race endorsed above 7,000 RPM
Low pressure-injected aluminum alloy housing
Front and rear roller/ball bearings to minimize harmonics
Cold-rolled carbon steel impeller of a closed-captured multi-van axial design
Double-welded front and rear impeller faceplates to minimize cavitation and maximize flow
I have heard of a couple of instances of this type of failure on forced induction applications where a lot of tension is required on the belt - one of the reasons why I bought this billet-pullied, high-capacity water pump.
Very nice. I do like getting the good stuff. Sort of a reward to myself for supplying the labor.
I will add this to my Corvette "lust list"
Last edited by Sam Handwich; Mar 6, 2017 at 02:33 PM.
St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
Originally Posted by Patches
I have heard of a couple of instances of this type of failure on forced induction applications where a lot of tension is required on the belt - one of the reasons why I bought this billet-pullied, high-capacity water pump.
These can be found with better pricing at the various sites such as Jegs. They come in various finishes and pricing is based on what combo you choose. Here's basically the model I ordered.
PRW 1434628 - GM, LS Gen III IV, 1997-2004 Corvette Avanti II, polished, Black alum pulley
You'll note in the picture above the amount of oil all over the water pump. This was due to a crank seal leak so it was just time that I pulled the balancer off and replace that seal. - First off - OMG! getting the steering rack out back in again is a serious PITA.
Once I got the balancer off I think I see a possible/probable reason for the pump failure. I think 'Vettenuts' may win the prize for the best answer. The balancer was a mess! Huge chunks, entire sections of rubber were missing from the the balancer and I suspect that was the root cause. I'm sure there was some level of warp-age.
This is a Procharger equipped motor so my guess is that I had a bad combination of power and broke.
I have replaced the seal now, installed an Innovators West 10% over balancer, cleaned up the motor from most of the splattered oil (will still need a good steam clean) and I have the thing pretty much back together. I did go with stock WP again though I'm jealous of that pump Patches has. Hell, I'm jealous of that whole motor, dude that engine is AWESOME!.
So as long as I've gotten that seal in correctly I should be good to go (I've never done a crank seal before, I hope I've gotten it right).
Once I get it running again I will post a final result. Thanks all.
Glad to hear you have it about ready to go again. FYI after reading this thread I started researching that water pump and was able to buy one on amazon for $160 shipped. It has the same pulley, but the housing is raw instead of polished. It was the only one they showed to be in stock and since purchasing it the site now says that it is currently unavailable. Not sure if there will be more to be had at that price or not. I'll update once it arrives if you're interested.
Patches, did that pump include all the necessary gaskets and seals?
Last edited by oneandgone; Apr 16, 2017 at 08:19 PM.
Can someone please explain this? - FAIL
