Slave? Master? Clutch?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 148
Likes: 4
Slave? Master? Clutch?
hey everyone. I know the power of search, but it seems after searching every situation is different so I thought I'd post mine. 03 z with a LS3 making 478rwhp 30k miles. Chevy clutch (not sure what model), stock master replaced 14 months ago, stock slave.
Doesnt matter the ambient temperature, step on the gas, go from 3k-6700 and shift from any gear going up to the next, if the first shift doesn't have the clutch pedal stick to the floor, the next will. Flip the pedal up with my toes and pump it and the clutch feels hard and somewhat notchy, no fluid loss from master. Ranger method of bleeding with no cure, bled master, no cure.
Help!
Doesnt matter the ambient temperature, step on the gas, go from 3k-6700 and shift from any gear going up to the next, if the first shift doesn't have the clutch pedal stick to the floor, the next will. Flip the pedal up with my toes and pump it and the clutch feels hard and somewhat notchy, no fluid loss from master. Ranger method of bleeding with no cure, bled master, no cure.
Help!
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,893
Likes: 295
From: Buffalo NY
This will fix your issues. Install it and don't look back.
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...rvette-c5-z06/
Some will suggest the Ranger method to clean your clutch fluid. I don't disagree that clean fluid is critical to proper operation of your hydraulic system, but don't expect it to be a cure all. The proper fix is the Tick Master, clean, fresh fluid, and properly insulated clutch lines that are in close proximity of headers/heat sources.
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...rvette-c5-z06/
Some will suggest the Ranger method to clean your clutch fluid. I don't disagree that clean fluid is critical to proper operation of your hydraulic system, but don't expect it to be a cure all. The proper fix is the Tick Master, clean, fresh fluid, and properly insulated clutch lines that are in close proximity of headers/heat sources.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 699
Likes: 18
From: Haslet Texas
hey everyone. I know the power of search, but it seems after searching every situation is different so I thought I'd post mine. 03 z with a LS3 making 478rwhp 30k miles. Chevy clutch (not sure what model), stock master replaced 14 months ago, stock slave.
Doesnt matter the ambient temperature, step on the gas, go from 3k-6700 and shift from any gear going up to the next, if the first shift doesn't have the clutch pedal stick to the floor, the next will. Flip the pedal up with my toes and pump it and the clutch feels hard and somewhat notchy, no fluid loss from master. Ranger method of bleeding with no cure, bled master, no cure.
Help!
Doesnt matter the ambient temperature, step on the gas, go from 3k-6700 and shift from any gear going up to the next, if the first shift doesn't have the clutch pedal stick to the floor, the next will. Flip the pedal up with my toes and pump it and the clutch feels hard and somewhat notchy, no fluid loss from master. Ranger method of bleeding with no cure, bled master, no cure.
Help!
Changing fluids or masters may only band-aid a failing clutch system, if help at all.
Give us a shout if you have any questions.(817-750-2000)
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 148
Likes: 4
This will fix your issues. Install it and don't look back.
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...rvette-c5-z06/
Some will suggest the Ranger method to clean your clutch fluid. I don't disagree that clean fluid is critical to proper operation of your hydraulic system, but don't expect it to be a cure all. The proper fix is the Tick Master, clean, fresh fluid, and properly insulated clutch lines that are in close proximity of headers/heat sources.
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...rvette-c5-z06/
Some will suggest the Ranger method to clean your clutch fluid. I don't disagree that clean fluid is critical to proper operation of your hydraulic system, but don't expect it to be a cure all. The proper fix is the Tick Master, clean, fresh fluid, and properly insulated clutch lines that are in close proximity of headers/heat sources.
Last edited by Highroller101; Apr 15, 2017 at 11:15 PM.
Pro
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 535
Likes: 92
From: Raleigh NC
This is a very very common issue.
I have the same problem. Keeping the clutch fluid clean helps a little. I have the Tick master cylinder. Made no difference. Also have the Lingenfelter clutch pedal return spring. Made no difference.
I'm convinced the issue is as Monster described. The clutch is slightly slipping, creating a ton of heat. They describe heat fatigue on the return spring. I always felt it was boiling the clutch fluid at the slave since it was a temporary condition; and since the clean clutch fluid always seemed to help for a bit. Regardless, I believe the fix is a new/upgraded clutch. I'd replace the slave while you're in there. And install a Tick remote bleeder to make changing the fluid easier in the future.
I have the same problem. Keeping the clutch fluid clean helps a little. I have the Tick master cylinder. Made no difference. Also have the Lingenfelter clutch pedal return spring. Made no difference.
I'm convinced the issue is as Monster described. The clutch is slightly slipping, creating a ton of heat. They describe heat fatigue on the return spring. I always felt it was boiling the clutch fluid at the slave since it was a temporary condition; and since the clean clutch fluid always seemed to help for a bit. Regardless, I believe the fix is a new/upgraded clutch. I'd replace the slave while you're in there. And install a Tick remote bleeder to make changing the fluid easier in the future.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 148
Likes: 4
I just don't want to start the season off thinking everything is great and then the first track day be swearing about the damn car and sell it to buy a spec Miata. I really like my vette and don't want a sour taste in my mouth.
I have the return spring and the master. I might just do the clutch, slave and master all at once.
Which brings up the next question.... what clutch? I spoke to monster and they recommend there lt1-s which is great, but there are a lot of clutches at that price point. Plus I would like something that comes pre-assembled and balanced so there's no chance of chatter.
I have the return spring and the master. I might just do the clutch, slave and master all at once.
Which brings up the next question.... what clutch? I spoke to monster and they recommend there lt1-s which is great, but there are a lot of clutches at that price point. Plus I would like something that comes pre-assembled and balanced so there's no chance of chatter.
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Pro
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 535
Likes: 92
From: Raleigh NC
Honestly, the LPE return spring plus the Tick Master makes for a heavier clutch. Nothing I haven't gotten used to but noticeable. It's not so much the force to press it in, but rather modulating the clutch pedal when releasing (when driving in traffic, etc).
The Tick Master is a nice unit, but honestly I'd skip the return spring.
I've got to pull my motor, but when it all goes back together, I'll do a new clutch. I'm leaning towards the Monster LT1-S twin disc also. Reviews seem to be good. Didn't really want to spend that much on a clutch but certainly don't want to do it twice.
The Tick Master is a nice unit, but honestly I'd skip the return spring.
I've got to pull my motor, but when it all goes back together, I'll do a new clutch. I'm leaning towards the Monster LT1-S twin disc also. Reviews seem to be good. Didn't really want to spend that much on a clutch but certainly don't want to do it twice.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
I just don't want to start the season off thinking everything is great and then the first track day be swearing about the damn car and sell it to buy a spec Miata. I really like my vette and don't want a sour taste in my mouth.
I have the return spring and the master. I might just do the clutch, slave and master all at once.
Which brings up the next question.... what clutch? I spoke to monster and they recommend there lt1-s which is great, but there are a lot of clutches at that price point. Plus I would like something that comes pre-assembled and balanced so there's no chance of chatter.
I have the return spring and the master. I might just do the clutch, slave and master all at once.
Which brings up the next question.... what clutch? I spoke to monster and they recommend there lt1-s which is great, but there are a lot of clutches at that price point. Plus I would like something that comes pre-assembled and balanced so there's no chance of chatter.
QUOTE" Plus I would like something that comes pre-assembled and balanced so there's no chance of chatter.
Well,,, that's NOT going to help you. If GM did the HOT BALANCE procedure on your engine/clutch assy and they had to add balance pins to the flywheel to get it into MN6/MN12 Hot Balance Spec, you are going to have to have what ever CLUTCH Flywheel/pressure plate you install MATCH BALANCED to your old clutch assy to prevent any NVH (vibrations cause by the new clutch assy). MAKE SURE that you match mark where the OEM flywheel was on the crank flange and the machine shop references that mark on the old flywheel assy to the balance on the new assy.
Here is a good read for you on the HOT BALANCE ISSUES:
- C5 FLYWHEEL BALANCE ISSUES: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ion-twice.html
- - C5 Clutch Vibration Issues: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1585950971 <http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-tech/3403737-vibration-after-new-clutch-install.html#post1585950971> C5, C6, C7 HOT BALANCE See time stamp at approx 8
You will have to deal with this if you go aftermarket clutch:
CLUTCH SHIM MEASUREMENTS: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...asurement.html
- - TICK SHIM MEASUREMENT from the parts web site: http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...nder-shim-055/ http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...nder-shim-055/
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Mar 17, 2017 at 02:00 PM.