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I just replaced the clutch(ls7 style), release bearing, pressure plate, pilot bearing, slave cylinder.
The car starts up perfectly, no leaks, and I bled the clutch multiple times.
I can't shift between gears when the car is running. Sounds like it will grind if I try to force it. When off, I can shift from 1,2,3,4,5,6.
I can start the car in 1st and slowly release the clutch and the car will move just like normal. The is no lurching. With clutch in, you aren't getting it into 2nd without turning the car off.
Sounds like the clutch is not fully disengaging. Did you measure the distance between TOB and clutch fingers when you put it back together, static air gap? Clutch should have had an air gap spec. I've done a few F Body cars with this setup but never a C5 but I would assume the same principals apply. Too much air gap will do what your describing. How far off the floor does it engage?
It's the stock Luk clutch. I'll need to research air gap. It feels like it engages where it did before it was removed. I was thinking about pulling the remote bleeder out and bleeding it some more.
When you bleed put the end of the speed bleeder submerged under brake fluid as sometimes it can draw in air on the return stroke. Being submerged in fluid rules that out.
When you bleed put the end of the speed bleeder submerged under brake fluid as sometimes it can draw in air on the return stroke. Being submerged in fluid rules that out.
Sounds like a plan. I'm going to be brave and route the remote bleeder that I zip tied to the brake lines through the lower shift boot and into the car with me.
here is the procedure to set the self adjustment on the ls7 clutch you can do it in the car, they should mention this in the kit but they dont, this is probably why its not disengaging
It's the stock Luk clutch. I'll need to research air gap. It feels like it engages where it did before it was removed. I was thinking about pulling the remote bleeder out and bleeding it some more.
Sorry, the stock clutch should not need shimmed. Symtops sound like it's not disengaging the entire way.
here is the procedure to set the self adjustment on the ls7 clutch you can do it in the car, they should mention this in the kit but they dont, this is probably why its not disengaging
That would be the VERY FIRST thing that I would check and adjust.
Sure,, ,,, If you don't have a proper bleed, that would also cause it. Why don't you get an assistant to help you properly bleed the clutch??
I also SUBMERGE the end of my remote bleeder in fluid when I bleed it. Makes it a LOT easier to see when theres NO MORE AIR in the line and you can be assured that NO MORE AIR will reenter the system on the release stroke.
When you bleed put the end of the speed bleeder submerged under brake fluid as sometimes it can draw in air on the return stroke. Being submerged in fluid rules that out.
So I checked and after routing the remote bleeder through the shifter and bleeding it, the pedal has gotten a lot harder. In fact it feels vastly different and I think that may have fixed it. I had a power steering leak so I've been working on that for that past few days.
here is the procedure to set the self adjustment on the ls7 clutch you can do it in the car, they should mention this in the kit but they dont, this is probably why its not disengaging
here is the procedure to set the self adjustment on the ls7 clutch you can do it in the car, they should mention this in the kit but they dont, this is probably why its not disengaging