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I just confirmed with a test light that I have voltage at both top sockets 86 & 87 of relay.
Can you draw out a lay out of all 4 pins and post showing where you have power...87 and 30 which are the load side feeds sit diagonally across from each other...just want to make sure you have the terminals correctly identified...if you have some thin copper wire that you can wrap around the relay pin that goes to the BCM and reinstall it that would be great !!...if you look at the bottom of the relay you will see the layout...these relays can be installed either way...we will use the test light to check the 2 other pins...86 and 87 are across from each other and 30 and 85 are across from each other as well.
Ok, take your test light and connect it to somewhere where you can get 12 volts from and go diagonally across to the other pins...the light should illuminate on one of those 2...the test light should find a ground (that is why we hook it to power) through the test light to the folding top actuator and then to ground...if the windings of the actuator are good the light should light...the last pin should be the one that comes from the BCM...that one we will wrap the copper wire around and reinstall and then hook the test light back up to GROUND and simulate the BCM is grounding the relay...we are using the test light in place of the BCM to make the relay operate !!
OK, great !!...the only thing it can be is the wiring from the BCM to the relay pin you grounded OR a bad BCM...disconnect the BCM's middle connector which is C1 and we are looking for terminal B12 which is a gray wire,,,it is at the corner end of the connector (see pic)...take your ohm meter and check for continuity (ohms setting) between terminal B12 and the pin you had wrapped the copper wire around...you should have continuity between those 2...if not a broken wire or bad connection or if it's good the BCM is bad...the computer driver that grounds that circuit is toast inside the BCM.
Okay, I will get into this either tomorrow or the weekend.
Silly question, remove battery both cables before I disconnect this harness?
And I really appreciate your help and I am determined to have this fix, even if I have to replace it.
Okay, I will get into this either tomorrow or the weekend.
Silly question, remove battery both cables before I disconnect this harness?
And I really appreciate your help and I am determined to have this fix, even if I have to replace it.
To be safe you can remove just the negative battery cable...I just reread this whole thread after 4 years and in your first post you said that if you use the FOB the trunk works...if that is the case the BCM is grounding the circuit so what we did with the copper wire was unnecessary...you said you jumped the "micro" which I'm assuming is the "folding top ajar indicator switch"...remove that switch or disconnect its connector and with your ohm meter see if you have both continuity and not with the switch depressed and released...a Forum member is bringing his car by some transmission issues and he has a convertible top so I'll look at his...if the only thing that allows the trunk to release is the switch then that is the cause...sorry I didn't read everything completely !!
"( I know the micro works because the trunk wont open and when I cheat that micro, the trunk opens.
Thank you for rereading and taking your time out to help me
Yes the trunk works perfectly with the fob & switch on the dash.
So to be onboard with you, I am not checking the gray wire for continuity today?
I jumped the push button, I did not jump the latch ajar switch
Thank you for rereading and taking your time out to help me
Yes the trunk works perfectly with the fob & switch on the dash.
So to be onboard with you, I am not checking the gray wire for continuity today?
I'm a little confused now...if the trunk works with the switch and the FOB what is the problem ????
...never worked on a vert so maybe I'm missing something here !!...look at post 25 with the schematic and look at the ajar switch....you should have 12 volts on the dark blue wire...ground is on the other side
Rob,
Thanks so much for allowing me to call you on this and tying you up for over so hour.
It is very generous of you and I do owe you a drink or two.
Afterwards, I did ohm out the red wire A from the button to the LT green wire #11 on the BCM and I am not getting any continuity
I did this three times with the same result.
I starting burning out and walked away for a while.
Phil, thinking we should step back a little and since you found the fuse box in bad shape and the BCM may be compromised in what we are seeing. The first thing is to clear all your codes and then start the car and before shutting the car off check for any codes again...post your current codes...next check these 5 fuses in the IP fusebox...fuses 23 and 25 are "hot at all times' and fuses 9,13,22 are hot with the key ON...let us know what you find...what we know so far is the tonneau cover releases with your key FOB so the BCM is grounding the control side of the relay...we also proved that by grounding out that relay ground pin with your test light and the copper wire...we don't have 12 volts at BCM Connector C11 on the C2 connector (light green) but maybe the BCM is looking for a ground there completed through the switch possibly ??…so that is why I suggest checking the fuses and making sure power is getting to those BCM connector terminals (pic enclosed)...we also have to check the grounds !!...good video enclosed on how to properly check power and grounds at any module whether PCM,BCM,HVAC etc...it starts at 55:40 into the video.
I got back,button everything up, ran the car for 10 minutes and cleared all codes that were in history. (I guess the car needed to be started to resolve this.
While near the BCM, I opened the two star grounds, they were spotless but cleaned them anyway.
I took my meter and checked all the fuses you said to check, all fuses are good with an OHM meter
Thats were I am now.
I am happy that the car is running with no codes, LOL
