1999 Convertible hatch button does not work
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,486
Likes: 343
From: Long Island New York
Rob,
The codes were
58-SDM U1000H
58_SDM U1016H
58-SMD U1040H
58-SMD U1096H
28-TCS C1255H
I tried twice to clear the codes with engine off yesterday and the codes came back right away.
I think the car needed to be started and run for a while for all communications to set.
I currently have zero codes as before I started troubleshooting.
The codes were
58-SDM U1000H
58_SDM U1016H
58-SMD U1040H
58-SMD U1096H
28-TCS C1255H
I tried twice to clear the codes with engine off yesterday and the codes came back right away.
I think the car needed to be started and run for a while for all communications to set.
I currently have zero codes as before I started troubleshooting.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,486
Likes: 343
From: Long Island New York
what we know so far is the tonneau cover releases with your key FOB so the BCM is grounding the control side of the relay..
The fob does not pop the tonneau hatch cover, it pops the trunk.
Tomorrow I will try the relay leg with the copper wire to see if the windows go down & hatch cover open
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 3,572
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From: Taildragers rule! USA1
I haven't read this whole thread..............but if your trunk is popped slightly open the tonneau cover will not release with the button. Maybe something in that electrical circuit?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,486
Likes: 343
From: Long Island New York
Thanks ztheusa, yeah, we know that the trunk is involved in this and I confirmed that the trunk switch is working.
Hey Rob,
I did the relay leg test again today twice and the windows did not go down, it just pops the tonneah hatch cover.
This may be part of two circuits??
Hey Rob,
I did the relay leg test again today twice and the windows did not go down, it just pops the tonneah hatch cover.
This may be part of two circuits??
Moderator, Tech Contributor
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 15,561
Likes: 4,033
From: Cape Coral, Florida
Hi Phil !!…didn’t you say when you did this the other day the windows went down but today no ??…I think the next step is to trace the circuit where we had no continuity…from the switch to C11….so I guess the BCM is looking for a ground there to pop the tonneau….let me look in the windows section of the FSM and see what it shows…also think we should check the powers and grounds at the BCM…2 battery feeds and 3 ignition feeds and the ground.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,486
Likes: 343
From: Long Island New York
Hi Rob,
The windows went down when I used the test light to ground and tapping pin with LTgreen wire #11 on the BCM.
The latch pops open no windows down by test light from ground to relay leg #F11
The windows went down when I used the test light to ground and tapping pin with LTgreen wire #11 on the BCM.
The latch pops open no windows down by test light from ground to relay leg #F11
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,486
Likes: 343
From: Long Island New York
I also checked grounds 302, I did these when I bought the car and they are still clean as a whistle
* remember, when the tonneau hatch is fully open, and I press the trunk release button on the dashboard, I get three chimes, so the circuit knows that the hatch is open and will not allow the trunk to open.
* remember, when the tonneau hatch is fully open, and I press the trunk release button on the dashboard, I get three chimes, so the circuit knows that the hatch is open and will not allow the trunk to open.
Moderator, Tech Contributor
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 15,561
Likes: 4,033
From: Cape Coral, Florida
I also checked grounds 302, I did these when I bought the car and they are still clean as a whistle
* remember, when the tonneau hatch is fully open, and I press the trunk release button on the dashboard, I get three chimes, so the circuit knows that the hatch is open and will not allow the trunk to open.
* remember, when the tonneau hatch is fully open, and I press the trunk release button on the dashboard, I get three chimes, so the circuit knows that the hatch is open and will not allow the trunk to open.
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Moderator, Tech Contributor
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 15,561
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From: Cape Coral, Florida
You’ll like the kit…just pull all 3 connectors off the BCM and check the power and grounds…I think you have the pin outs...couldn't find anything in the windows schematic...it may a class 2 serial data bus message signal between the door control modules and the BCM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,486
Likes: 343
From: Long Island New York
I was reading the manual until my eyes were bleeding, then i started hitting the wine....
It appears that D11 from the fuse box (always hot) should supply C11 to the BCM, 12 volts
The hatch relay circuit was stating a light orange wire on C2 though, I had to put the book down and walk away...
The manual does not state, or I cant find how the three harness going into the BCM is numbered?? Harness C2 is in the middle or top?
It appears that D11 from the fuse box (always hot) should supply C11 to the BCM, 12 volts
The hatch relay circuit was stating a light orange wire on C2 though, I had to put the book down and walk away...
The manual does not state, or I cant find how the three harness going into the BCM is numbered?? Harness C2 is in the middle or top?
Moderator, Tech Contributor
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 15,561
Likes: 4,033
From: Cape Coral, Florida
I was reading the manual until my eyes were bleeding, then i started hitting the wine....
It appears that D11 from the fuse box (always hot) should supply C11 to the BCM, 12 volts
The hatch relay circuit was stating a light orange wire on C2 though, I had to put the book down and walk away...
The manual does not state, or I cant find how the three harness going into the BCM is numbered?? Harness C2 is in the middle or top?
It appears that D11 from the fuse box (always hot) should supply C11 to the BCM, 12 volts
The hatch relay circuit was stating a light orange wire on C2 though, I had to put the book down and walk away...
The manual does not state, or I cant find how the three harness going into the BCM is numbered?? Harness C2 is in the middle or top?
OK, BCM connectors-
C2- Top
C1- Middle
C3- Bottom
BCM Powers:
HOT AT ALL TIMES
C1 - A4 - Orange
C3 - A4 - Orange
HOT - Key ON:
C2 - D13 - Pink
C2 - D12 - Yellow
C1 - A9 - Brown
BCM Ground:
C1 - A9 - Black/White
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,486
Likes: 343
From: Long Island New York
Rob, as I wait for my probes to come in, I wanted to show you this from my manual.
C11 is LT orange?? on C2, in other diagrams it was LT green.
Is this an error in the manuals?
Moderator, Tech Contributor
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 15,561
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From: Cape Coral, Florida
On Alldata for your 1999 it shows a light green wire both on the OE drawing and the redrawn schematic for circuit # 2166 !!...what color on yours ??...I'm looking up a headlight and headlight bucket issue for someone and I found an error on a ground number so sometimes these wiring schematics are wrong !!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,486
Likes: 343
From: Long Island New York
Hey Rob,
I was working with this today.
HAT
C1-A4 Orange is good
C3-A4 Orange is good
HKO
C2-D13 Pink is good
C2-D12 Yellow is good
C1-B11 Brown, is good
C1-A9 Black with white stripe test good with a 12volt source from battery
What was C1-A9 suppose to be?
PS
The probes are a Godsend ...
Last edited by pjdbm; Feb 2, 2023 at 04:50 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,486
Likes: 343
From: Long Island New York
I am adding this to help someone else chase this issue or something very similar. Sometimes things make better sense and you can flow through troubleshooting when you draw it out and write it down.
Last edited by pjdbm; Feb 5, 2023 at 08:39 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,486
Likes: 343
From: Long Island New York
After doing as C5 Diag told me to do, I found that all my power going to the BCM was there, as well as the grounds.
It had to be an open or a bad BCM, right?
I decided to check for continuity between all wires involved in this circuit.
With the probes C5 diag recommended me to purchase, this made this job much easier and cut my working time in half.
Well, all was checking well and I had only one more wire to check, the Red wire with green stripe coming from the folding top release button to the back of the fuse box.
Sure enough, there was an open in that wire!!
I spliced in a new wire to the back of the fuse box, and this is now working
Windows come down and hatch opens, reset all codes from having the BCM out with ignition on and we are good to go.
The interior Fuse Box as well as two open wires fixed this 4 year old issue.
I cant say thank you enough to Rob here, without your patience, guidance,and giving me the confidence, this would have never been fixed.
Last edited by pjdbm; Feb 5, 2023 at 08:42 PM.
Moderator, Tech Contributor
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 15,561
Likes: 4,033
From: Cape Coral, Florida
Hey Phil !!…glad you found it…had a hunch it was a wiring issue at the fuse box…so I guess we can close this almost 6 year old thread…AND we have the resolution which we don’t see too much here….great job !!