Lifter swap checklist
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Lifter swap checklist
Ok guys I've decided it's better to be safe than sorry so my mechanic and I are going to swap my lifters because I got a nasty tapping sound on every cold start. Just want to get opinions and make sure I am getting everything I need. Going to get GM ls7 lifters, new trays, factory GM multi layer steel head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, manifold gaskets, and ARP head bolts. Anything else I need?
#2
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St. Jude Donor '08
Ok guys I've decided it's better to be safe than sorry so my mechanic and I are going to swap my lifters because I got a nasty tapping sound on every cold start. Just want to get opinions and make sure I am getting everything I need. Going to get GM ls7 lifters, new trays, factory GM multi layer steel head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, manifold gaskets, and ARP head bolts. Anything else I need?
I would get the ARP HEAD STUDS. You will have less of a chance stripping out the head bolt threads inside the block. The head studs are absolutely amazing.. Once you use them, you will be HOOKED!
NOTE!!!!!!!! WARNING!!!!!!!!!
Regardless of what head fastener that you use,, Make absolutely positive that each head bold hole (in the block) is ABSOLUTY DRY & CLEAN. If you leave ANY water/liquid or debris inside the hole, you can and will RUPTURE the block. They are BLIND HOLES! Check, Check and double check!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
New lifter Trays!
There is an ALUMINUM PERCH for each head that each ROCKER sits on. Examine the small saddles on the perch for each rocker and make sure that it isn't worn. If it is, replace the perch. They are NOT expensive. I've seen worn ones that cause the rocker to sit on the valve crooked!
PUSHRODS. Purchase an adjustable push rod check tool. Measure the zero clearance length of each lifter/rocker and add in the manufactures recommended lifter piston PRE-LOAD to get the proper length pushrods. CHECK TWICE and order the correct length pushrods that provide you the proper lifter piston preload.
When was the last time you changed the valve seals and how many miles do you have on the ones installed??
BC
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Well,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Here is my take. Been down this road several times and...................
I would get the ARP HEAD STUDS. You will have less of a chance stripping out the head bolt threads inside the block. The head studs are absolutely amazing.. Once you use them, you will be HOOKED!
NOTE!!!!!!!! WARNING!!!!!!!!!
Regardless of what head fastener that you use,, Make absolutely positive that each head bold hole (in the block) is ABSOLUTY DRY & CLEAN. If you leave ANY water/liquid or debris inside the hole, you can and will RUPTURE the block. They are BLIND HOLES! Check, Check and double check!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
New lifter Trays!
There is an ALUMINUM PERCH for each head that each ROCKER sits on. Examine the small saddles on the perch for each rocker and make sure that it isn't worn. If it is, replace the perch. They are NOT expensive. I've seen worn ones that cause the rocker to sit on the valve crooked!
PUSHRODS. Purchase an adjustable push rod check tool. Measure the zero clearance length of each lifter/rocker and add in the manufactures recommended lifter piston PRE-LOAD to get the proper length pushrods. CHECK TWICE and order the correct length pushrods that provide you the proper lifter piston preload.
When was the last time you changed the valve seals and how many miles do you have on the ones installed??
BC
I would get the ARP HEAD STUDS. You will have less of a chance stripping out the head bolt threads inside the block. The head studs are absolutely amazing.. Once you use them, you will be HOOKED!
NOTE!!!!!!!! WARNING!!!!!!!!!
Regardless of what head fastener that you use,, Make absolutely positive that each head bold hole (in the block) is ABSOLUTY DRY & CLEAN. If you leave ANY water/liquid or debris inside the hole, you can and will RUPTURE the block. They are BLIND HOLES! Check, Check and double check!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
New lifter Trays!
There is an ALUMINUM PERCH for each head that each ROCKER sits on. Examine the small saddles on the perch for each rocker and make sure that it isn't worn. If it is, replace the perch. They are NOT expensive. I've seen worn ones that cause the rocker to sit on the valve crooked!
PUSHRODS. Purchase an adjustable push rod check tool. Measure the zero clearance length of each lifter/rocker and add in the manufactures recommended lifter piston PRE-LOAD to get the proper length pushrods. CHECK TWICE and order the correct length pushrods that provide you the proper lifter piston preload.
When was the last time you changed the valve seals and how many miles do you have on the ones installed??
BC
#4
Melting Slicks
I think Bills advice on the pushrods is for guys that did a aftermarket cam swap
#5
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St. Jude Donor '08
IF, they are the INCORRECT LENGTH, why would you use them? That alone could cause the noise.
Im NOT saying purchase new ones because its just a nice thought. You have to have the correct length push rods to put the correct PRE-LOAD on the small piston inside the lifter.
If you measure and the push rods are the correct length, YES, re-use them.
Im NOT saying purchase new ones because its just a nice thought. You have to have the correct length push rods to put the correct PRE-LOAD on the small piston inside the lifter.
If you measure and the push rods are the correct length, YES, re-use them.
Last edited by Bill Curlee; 05-22-2017 at 03:31 PM.
#6
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
IF, they are the INCORRECT LENGTH, why would you use them? That alone could cause the noise.
Im NOT saying purchase new ones because its just a nice thought. You have to have the correct length push rods to put the correct PRE-LOAD on the small piston inside the lifter.
If you measure and the push rods are the correct length, YES, re-use them.
Im NOT saying purchase new ones because its just a nice thought. You have to have the correct length push rods to put the correct PRE-LOAD on the small piston inside the lifter.
If you measure and the push rods are the correct length, YES, re-use them.
#7
Drifting
Factory exh manifolds or headers? Everyone that put headers on hear more valve train noises than before.
All I'm sayin' is make sure you have diagnosed the problem correctly. I would guess you would be unhappy after pulling the heads, getting them reworked ( a really good idea once you are that far) replacing the lifters, only to find you still have the noise.
Are you sure it is a lifter, sometimes a bit of carbon can accumulate at the top of the piston and will click until the engine warms up and everything grows thermally a bit. I had a Chevy 2500/6.0 that did that, and I could never get the dealer to fix it, and it went another100k hard pulling miles with that friggin' click when it was cold. IIRC in 2001 some engines had a ring issue that caused a click.
Before you pull your heads, why not first measure what pushrod length you need. That is the purpose of the tool Bill mentioned earlier. If the heads have never been re-worked (valve job) then there never should be a reason to replace the pushrods unless one is bent. If the heads are orig or were reworked PROPERLY, then you should only need to measure one valve with the tool. Then you can measure the length of the pushrod you take out. You can measure the others, but they should all be the same length.
Finally, if you do indeed decide you have a bad lifter, then there may be damage to that cam lobe, so I would probably pull the cam and have it checked. Now you are getting pretty deep into the engine and maybe looking at mistakes a previous builder made. Then, fur sure I'd replace the lifter trunnions with the ones with C clip retainers. The existing trunnion/bearing is pressed into the rocker arm and have been known to puke bearings.
All I'm sayin' is make sure you have diagnosed the problem correctly. I would guess you would be unhappy after pulling the heads, getting them reworked ( a really good idea once you are that far) replacing the lifters, only to find you still have the noise.
Are you sure it is a lifter, sometimes a bit of carbon can accumulate at the top of the piston and will click until the engine warms up and everything grows thermally a bit. I had a Chevy 2500/6.0 that did that, and I could never get the dealer to fix it, and it went another100k hard pulling miles with that friggin' click when it was cold. IIRC in 2001 some engines had a ring issue that caused a click.
Before you pull your heads, why not first measure what pushrod length you need. That is the purpose of the tool Bill mentioned earlier. If the heads have never been re-worked (valve job) then there never should be a reason to replace the pushrods unless one is bent. If the heads are orig or were reworked PROPERLY, then you should only need to measure one valve with the tool. Then you can measure the length of the pushrod you take out. You can measure the others, but they should all be the same length.
Finally, if you do indeed decide you have a bad lifter, then there may be damage to that cam lobe, so I would probably pull the cam and have it checked. Now you are getting pretty deep into the engine and maybe looking at mistakes a previous builder made. Then, fur sure I'd replace the lifter trunnions with the ones with C clip retainers. The existing trunnion/bearing is pressed into the rocker arm and have been known to puke bearings.
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Factory exh manifolds or headers? Everyone that put headers on hear more valve train noises than before.
All I'm sayin' is make sure you have diagnosed the problem correctly. I would guess you would be unhappy after pulling the heads, getting them reworked ( a really good idea once you are that far) replacing the lifters, only to find you still have the noise.
Are you sure it is a lifter, sometimes a bit of carbon can accumulate at the top of the piston and will click until the engine warms up and everything grows thermally a bit. I had a Chevy 2500/6.0 that did that, and I could never get the dealer to fix it, and it went another100k hard pulling miles with that friggin' click when it was cold. IIRC in 2001 some engines had a ring issue that caused a click.
Before you pull your heads, why not first measure what pushrod length you need. That is the purpose of the tool Bill mentioned earlier. If the heads have never been re-worked (valve job) then there never should be a reason to replace the pushrods unless one is bent. If the heads are orig or were reworked PROPERLY, then you should only need to measure one valve with the tool. Then you can measure the length of the pushrod you take out. You can measure the others, but they should all be the same length.
Finally, if you do indeed decide you have a bad lifter, then there may be damage to that cam lobe, so I would probably pull the cam and have it checked. Now you are getting pretty deep into the engine and maybe looking at mistakes a previous builder made. Then, fur sure I'd replace the lifter trunnions with the ones with C clip retainers. The existing trunnion/bearing is pressed into the rocker arm and have been known to puke bearings.
All I'm sayin' is make sure you have diagnosed the problem correctly. I would guess you would be unhappy after pulling the heads, getting them reworked ( a really good idea once you are that far) replacing the lifters, only to find you still have the noise.
Are you sure it is a lifter, sometimes a bit of carbon can accumulate at the top of the piston and will click until the engine warms up and everything grows thermally a bit. I had a Chevy 2500/6.0 that did that, and I could never get the dealer to fix it, and it went another100k hard pulling miles with that friggin' click when it was cold. IIRC in 2001 some engines had a ring issue that caused a click.
Before you pull your heads, why not first measure what pushrod length you need. That is the purpose of the tool Bill mentioned earlier. If the heads have never been re-worked (valve job) then there never should be a reason to replace the pushrods unless one is bent. If the heads are orig or were reworked PROPERLY, then you should only need to measure one valve with the tool. Then you can measure the length of the pushrod you take out. You can measure the others, but they should all be the same length.
Finally, if you do indeed decide you have a bad lifter, then there may be damage to that cam lobe, so I would probably pull the cam and have it checked. Now you are getting pretty deep into the engine and maybe looking at mistakes a previous builder made. Then, fur sure I'd replace the lifter trunnions with the ones with C clip retainers. The existing trunnion/bearing is pressed into the rocker arm and have been known to puke bearings.
https://youtu.be/4VLl_xAKSHU
#9
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St. Jude Donor '08
I have helped troubleshoot several LS engine valve train noise issues. Here is one thing I found to plague several engines after a cam swap or change to heavier springs:
Remove the valve covers. Engine HOT. Attempt to depress the pushrod into the lifter. If the lifter is working properly, it should be full of oil and resist the pushrod from easily being pushed into the lifter. If you can easily push the pushrod into the lifter, the piston inside the lifter or the small check valve inside the lifter is leaking (bleeding down) and the lifter is failing. That in its self can cause the noises that you are dealing with.
Restart the engine for a short time to pump the lifters back up and then let the engine sit and do the same check cold. Compare ALL the lifters to one another and if you have one or several that are exceptionally easy to collapse, I would look there for a possible noise issue.
I went to extreme measures to keep my LS6 from sounding like a Singer Sewing Machine after my Can swap. I was successful.
That being said, I have to fully agree with "k24556" about being able to hear the valve shutting on the seats when you have headers. At a slow Idle I can hear the valves shut. CLOP CLOP CLOP CLOP........
Remove the valve covers. Engine HOT. Attempt to depress the pushrod into the lifter. If the lifter is working properly, it should be full of oil and resist the pushrod from easily being pushed into the lifter. If you can easily push the pushrod into the lifter, the piston inside the lifter or the small check valve inside the lifter is leaking (bleeding down) and the lifter is failing. That in its self can cause the noises that you are dealing with.
Restart the engine for a short time to pump the lifters back up and then let the engine sit and do the same check cold. Compare ALL the lifters to one another and if you have one or several that are exceptionally easy to collapse, I would look there for a possible noise issue.
I went to extreme measures to keep my LS6 from sounding like a Singer Sewing Machine after my Can swap. I was successful.
That being said, I have to fully agree with "k24556" about being able to hear the valve shutting on the seats when you have headers. At a slow Idle I can hear the valves shut. CLOP CLOP CLOP CLOP........
#10
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I have helped troubleshoot several LS engine valve train noise issues. Here is one thing I found to plague several engines after a cam swap or change to heavier springs:
Remove the valve covers. Engine HOT. Attempt to depress the pushrod into the lifter. If the lifter is working properly, it should be full of oil and resist the pushrod from easily being pushed into the lifter. If you can easily push the pushrod into the lifter, the piston inside the lifter or the small check valve inside the lifter is leaking (bleeding down) and the lifter is failing. That in its self can cause the noises that you are dealing with.
Restart the engine for a short time to pump the lifters back up and then let the engine sit and do the same check cold. Compare ALL the lifters to one another and if you have one or several that are exceptionally easy to collapse, I would look there for a possible noise issue.
I went to extreme measures to keep my LS6 from sounding like a Singer Sewing Machine after my Can swap. I was successful.
That being said, I have to fully agree with "k24556" about being able to hear the valve shutting on the seats when you have headers. At a slow Idle I can hear the valves shut. CLOP CLOP CLOP CLOP........
Remove the valve covers. Engine HOT. Attempt to depress the pushrod into the lifter. If the lifter is working properly, it should be full of oil and resist the pushrod from easily being pushed into the lifter. If you can easily push the pushrod into the lifter, the piston inside the lifter or the small check valve inside the lifter is leaking (bleeding down) and the lifter is failing. That in its self can cause the noises that you are dealing with.
Restart the engine for a short time to pump the lifters back up and then let the engine sit and do the same check cold. Compare ALL the lifters to one another and if you have one or several that are exceptionally easy to collapse, I would look there for a possible noise issue.
I went to extreme measures to keep my LS6 from sounding like a Singer Sewing Machine after my Can swap. I was successful.
That being said, I have to fully agree with "k24556" about being able to hear the valve shutting on the seats when you have headers. At a slow Idle I can hear the valves shut. CLOP CLOP CLOP CLOP........
#12
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#13
Racer
Push rods. Check tool. Part # comp cams 7905-1. Stock length - 7.4"(incl pre load). Next size 7.425"
#14
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
a collapsed valve seat or a cooked No.7 piston. Some notes i made. No. 7 piston cracked - https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5-tech/3927117-another-cylinder-7-failure-victim.html#post1593816561
Push rods. Check tool. Part # comp cams 7905-1. Stock length - 7.4"(incl pre load). Next size 7.425"
Push rods. Check tool. Part # comp cams 7905-1. Stock length - 7.4"(incl pre load). Next size 7.425"
Last edited by bwill03z; 05-23-2017 at 05:57 PM.
#15
Racer
I wish one of you guys lived close by and could help me take a look at it. I really don't have the time or knowledge to tear the motor down and check everything. I really hope its only a lifter bleeding down and nothing more.. and hopefully my cam is ok. I guess Im just going to have my mechanic take it apart and check everything. I have let this bother me for too long now and cant enjoy the car.
#16
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#17
Drifting
Hold on a sec. I listened to your vid. I have the same noise in the engine of my track car, and it has been pounded on the road courses for a bunch of years now. Headers bring out a lot of valve train noise. It is also the same noise I had on my 2500/6.0 chev truck, which now is owned by a landscaper friend, and after I put 140k on the engine, he has proceeded to add another 100k. The only duty that truck saw was either hauling my trailer, or his. It still ticks all the time. He almost did not buy it from me because of it, but pretty much ignores it now.
So about a few suggestions to try before spending $5k chasing this.
1. change the oil. Change the drain plug to one with a magnet. At the next oil change check for particles. If a cam is being worn, the wear detritus will be magnetic.. Depending on the cam material (cast iron or a steel forging) the detritus will either be a fine black goo (cast iron) or shiny flakes (forged steel). At the risk of starting an argument, either cam material is suitable. No detritus is good news.
2. run your video on the other side of the car, if you hear similar noises, they MAY be normal for your setup.
3. If you are tracking the car, consider running Mobil 1 15W-50. The oil is not necessarily thicker at a give temperature, but the M1 15W-50 has additional sulfur and zinc that will offer better high temp lubrication. The downside is this is harder on your cat converters; the Mobil oil guys don't recommend this for street/daily driving.
4. put your stock exh system back on and see if you still have your concerning noise.
5. If you are concerned that your valve seals were not done right, then get them changed. Adding oil from the top end of the engine will crud up the combustion chamber unnecessarily. These LS engines like to be clean there and usually are unless you are burning oil.
If it were a rod-knock noise, then I would really worry, but what I hear is not. I think it is a piece of carbon on a valve.
So about a few suggestions to try before spending $5k chasing this.
1. change the oil. Change the drain plug to one with a magnet. At the next oil change check for particles. If a cam is being worn, the wear detritus will be magnetic.. Depending on the cam material (cast iron or a steel forging) the detritus will either be a fine black goo (cast iron) or shiny flakes (forged steel). At the risk of starting an argument, either cam material is suitable. No detritus is good news.
2. run your video on the other side of the car, if you hear similar noises, they MAY be normal for your setup.
3. If you are tracking the car, consider running Mobil 1 15W-50. The oil is not necessarily thicker at a give temperature, but the M1 15W-50 has additional sulfur and zinc that will offer better high temp lubrication. The downside is this is harder on your cat converters; the Mobil oil guys don't recommend this for street/daily driving.
4. put your stock exh system back on and see if you still have your concerning noise.
5. If you are concerned that your valve seals were not done right, then get them changed. Adding oil from the top end of the engine will crud up the combustion chamber unnecessarily. These LS engines like to be clean there and usually are unless you are burning oil.
If it were a rod-knock noise, then I would really worry, but what I hear is not. I think it is a piece of carbon on a valve.
#18
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Hold on a sec. I listened to your vid. I have the same noise in the engine of my track car, and it has been pounded on the road courses for a bunch of years now. Headers bring out a lot of valve train noise. It is also the same noise I had on my 2500/6.0 chev truck, which now is owned by a landscaper friend, and after I put 140k on the engine, he has proceeded to add another 100k. The only duty that truck saw was either hauling my trailer, or his. It still ticks all the time. He almost did not buy it from me because of it, but pretty much ignores it now.
So about a few suggestions to try before spending $5k chasing this.
1. change the oil. Change the drain plug to one with a magnet. At the next oil change check for particles. If a cam is being worn, the wear detritus will be magnetic.. Depending on the cam material (cast iron or a steel forging) the detritus will either be a fine black goo (cast iron) or shiny flakes (forged steel). At the risk of starting an argument, either cam material is suitable. No detritus is good news.
2. run your video on the other side of the car, if you hear similar noises, they MAY be normal for your setup.
3. If you are tracking the car, consider running Mobil 1 15W-50. The oil is not necessarily thicker at a give temperature, but the M1 15W-50 has additional sulfur and zinc that will offer better high temp lubrication. The downside is this is harder on your cat converters; the Mobil oil guys don't recommend this for street/daily driving.
4. put your stock exh system back on and see if you still have your concerning noise.
5. If you are concerned that your valve seals were not done right, then get them changed. Adding oil from the top end of the engine will crud up the combustion chamber unnecessarily. These LS engines like to be clean there and usually are unless you are burning oil.
If it were a rod-knock noise, then I would really worry, but what I hear is not. I think it is a piece of carbon on a valve.
So about a few suggestions to try before spending $5k chasing this.
1. change the oil. Change the drain plug to one with a magnet. At the next oil change check for particles. If a cam is being worn, the wear detritus will be magnetic.. Depending on the cam material (cast iron or a steel forging) the detritus will either be a fine black goo (cast iron) or shiny flakes (forged steel). At the risk of starting an argument, either cam material is suitable. No detritus is good news.
2. run your video on the other side of the car, if you hear similar noises, they MAY be normal for your setup.
3. If you are tracking the car, consider running Mobil 1 15W-50. The oil is not necessarily thicker at a give temperature, but the M1 15W-50 has additional sulfur and zinc that will offer better high temp lubrication. The downside is this is harder on your cat converters; the Mobil oil guys don't recommend this for street/daily driving.
4. put your stock exh system back on and see if you still have your concerning noise.
5. If you are concerned that your valve seals were not done right, then get them changed. Adding oil from the top end of the engine will crud up the combustion chamber unnecessarily. These LS engines like to be clean there and usually are unless you are burning oil.
If it were a rod-knock noise, then I would really worry, but what I hear is not. I think it is a piece of carbon on a valve.
Last edited by bwill03z; 05-24-2017 at 09:22 AM.
#19
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I had that issue and it turned out to be the crappy Mobil 1 oil. It turns thin and that has an effect on the oiling hence lifter tap.
Changed to the same 5/30 Castrol Syntec and it was cured. Might try that first.
Changed to the same 5/30 Castrol Syntec and it was cured. Might try that first.
#20
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Did yours sound like mine? I did try Penn Platinum 5w30 with no change
Last edited by bwill03z; 05-24-2017 at 01:07 PM.