Weird Electrical Problem
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 272
Likes: 1
From: Michigan
Weird Electrical Problem
Thought I would post here as well (posted in Autocross and Road Race forum as well)
My car (2003 Coupe - gutted and caged) is currently experiencing a weird electrical issue. The car has a master cutoff switch. The car dies (complete loss of electrical power), as if the ignition was shut off and the key was pulled while on track. After dying initially, the car comes back to life, dies again, comes back to life and so on. Checked the main power wires (all look good). Checked the main ground (on the trans, but planning on moving it), checked the ignition and that looks good too. Some suggestions have been to check/replace the fuse panels in the car and in the engine bay. Any other ideas? The problem seems to manifest on higher g turns. The car has thrown a P0650 code. Also, the gauge cluster does not remember its last position (for example set it on oil temp and when I restart defaults to the odometer). No other codes. Did not do a thorough exam; was at the track. Thanks in advance!
My car (2003 Coupe - gutted and caged) is currently experiencing a weird electrical issue. The car has a master cutoff switch. The car dies (complete loss of electrical power), as if the ignition was shut off and the key was pulled while on track. After dying initially, the car comes back to life, dies again, comes back to life and so on. Checked the main power wires (all look good). Checked the main ground (on the trans, but planning on moving it), checked the ignition and that looks good too. Some suggestions have been to check/replace the fuse panels in the car and in the engine bay. Any other ideas? The problem seems to manifest on higher g turns. The car has thrown a P0650 code. Also, the gauge cluster does not remember its last position (for example set it on oil temp and when I restart defaults to the odometer). No other codes. Did not do a thorough exam; was at the track. Thanks in advance!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 272
Likes: 1
From: Michigan
Thanks for the info; I am not sure if the battery is good. It is recent, but that is easy enough to replace. We eliminated the cutoff switch (just wired everything to one post) and the problem did not go away. Note that the gauge cluster lost memory even with the cutoff eliminated. Replacing the battery is an easy thing to do - I will try that.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 272
Likes: 1
From: Michigan
The car definitely has headers - and that is one of the items that I need to check more thoroughly. The connection end is definitely crispy - it did not appear loose, but that is an easy thing to change. Thank you again.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
I have no idea how much original C5 electrical system/s that you have retained or left in OEM location. Here is what I know. IF, your car is shutting down just like you cut off the key, it would NOT leave any DTCs. Shutting off like using the key means that you have lost the IGNITION SWITCH power feeds or the IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUTS to all the modules that require dual 12 VDC supplies.
If your IPC is resetting, you are loosing 12 VDC Hot at ALL TIMES voltage to that module (as well as others)
Some things that I would look at:
1. Battery cable connections on the battery terminals. (Must be clean and tight. GM OEM Torque spec is 11 ft/lbs).
2. Main Chassis 12 VDC battery ground. Look at the main chassis ground stud G-104/108 that is located on top of the frame near the battery. ALL the module chassis grounds go through that ground back to the battery. MUST BE 100% good!!
3. Each fuse box has a MAIN 12 VDC power feed from the battery cable. The + battery cable feeds the under hood fuse box and there is a cable from that B+ junction that feeds the passengers foot well fuse box. Make sure that Positive 12 VDC cable B+ junction is clean and tight.
Hope this helps
Bill
If your IPC is resetting, you are loosing 12 VDC Hot at ALL TIMES voltage to that module (as well as others)
Some things that I would look at:
1. Battery cable connections on the battery terminals. (Must be clean and tight. GM OEM Torque spec is 11 ft/lbs).
2. Main Chassis 12 VDC battery ground. Look at the main chassis ground stud G-104/108 that is located on top of the frame near the battery. ALL the module chassis grounds go through that ground back to the battery. MUST BE 100% good!!
3. Each fuse box has a MAIN 12 VDC power feed from the battery cable. The + battery cable feeds the under hood fuse box and there is a cable from that B+ junction that feeds the passengers foot well fuse box. Make sure that Positive 12 VDC cable B+ junction is clean and tight.
Hope this helps
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; May 30, 2017 at 12:01 PM.
