Hello....
I just purchased my first Corvette. I read about all the little gremlins prior to the purchase and was reasonably satisfied that there were very few to deal with. I got a pretty good deal on her and I figured if I had to put some sweat equity into a few bugs, it would still be a solid value.

Key Fobs didn't work: one had battery prongs broken and the other has an old battery.
i replaced the battery, did the training and an hour later it wouldn't work. Do the re-Sync and it would work most of the time.
I believe I need a new fob, but I will move the battery cover from one to the other to test it first.

Air Conditioning: Passenger side cool, but not COLD, and the drivers side blistering hot. The previous owner had the Dual Control and Passengers Blend Actuator replaced 6 months ago. I cannot rule out some man made issue there.
The first thought was to do the fuse 27 trick, but I have a 6 foot "borescope" that I ran into the duct and I see the door opening and closing with the dual control change on the drivers side and the same for the passenger side. I did the Fuse 27 reset and watched them cycle and return to the same function as before.
Going to vac it down and load the correct ounces of 134.... we will see how that works out. I believe it may be low and choking the system and appearing to be malfunctioning in one side, when in reality, it may not have enough cold air to go around Stay tuned.

Fog Lamps and Horn: Both have been tracked down and tested to the Outside Fuse Panel. The relay opens and closes when the selected device is activated. I think it is in the grounding or a connector going to the lower front grill area..... I started looking for that last night.

Here is the real issue: I had been driving the car and despite the above issues, all else was fine. No current codes. There were some historical codes that I cleared. Then Presto and Pow, I get in and start her up today and I got and empty tank, flat tires, need to service the engine, the airbags need service, the engine temp is a gazzillion degrees, the power windows won't work, the fob does nothing, traction control is off, the codes won't come up on the DIC, no headlights, flashing lights and dinging, reduced engine power, etc etc etc.

Here is the thing, I tested the grounds last night with a multimeter looking for the horn and fog light issue.... . I All tested within 001 ohms to the battery ground, but in the process of testing, I moved them around a little I am sure. I planned to tear into any that were not good.
Did I disrupt an important ground?
The other thing was the RTD Fuse. I don't have RTD, but there was a blown fuse in the slot. I guess I was thinking that it possibly fed something else. I homed it out and saw very little resistance, so I installed a Fuse.... could I have told the BCM that it had RTD, but without the module, it kinda crashed?

 

The first thing I would(and did) do is have the battery and charging system checked. Our Vette's need and thrive on a GOOD battery with a lot of reserve power and when they get low or are compromised they play havoc with the electrical system setting off many codes. Grounds would be my second inspection and go from there. I don't know about anyone else, but I keep a high quality battery tender on mine since it's not my daily driver even after installing the new battery. No problems since. Good luck.

 

I got a reduced power message once and the passenger electric window quit working. It turned out to be a bad connection in the door wiring inside the accordion. I manipulated the plug connectors with some needle nose pliers and it fixed the problem.

 

I agree with the first two posts. Start by confirming you have a good battery. Have it load tested. If OK, then check the door wiring. Do both doors. Pull the accordion from the chassis and fish the wires and connector from the chassis. Inspect, clean, and adjust as necessary to ensure a good connection.

 

For the last part , Grounds played a role.... pulled them, cleaned them, pulled the battery and reconnected and viola... all is well again...
now on to the AC.....fobs can wait, so can the fogs and horn.... gotta get some cooling going on.

 

You haven't said what year your car is but I believe the earlier year fobs were known to have issues with broken solder joints.

 

She is a 1998.... a classic red head... Lucy

 

Ok, most of my issues were overthought and were resolved simply, however, this AC one still remains.
i have cool air from the Passengers Side and HOT air from the drivers. I ran a camera up into the ducts and the blender valve is cycling open when set for cool and closed when set for heat.
Is there another valve behind that one?

 

So, Lucy had hot air on the drivers side, and cool on the Passengers side.
After reading every possible thing that I could find about the problem, and applying troubleshooting found on this site, the air blows cold on both sides.
Problem #1:
The Blend door on the left was moving, but was throwing a code. Fuse 27 fix did nothing. The actuator was visibly moving from lock to lock with a borescope camera. Finally, I broke down and found a tiny mechanic and swapped it from the floorboard(somewhere that my big frame just wasn't gonna fit.
Problem #2:
The AC pressures would never level out..... the orifice tube was clogged.
Replaced it and vacuumed it down. A fresh charge and it all works as it should.

Remaining issues?
I need to break down and buy a second Key Fob for the 98, or find all of the parts required to switch it to 2001 up.... for now, I have one that works sporadically.

The horn and fog lights do not function. Yes, I have tested, repaired, sealed, corrected all ground locations. It looks like the wiring goes down to them in the same loom. As soon as I can get her in the air, I will chase that down. The fuses are good and the relays actuate when the switches are pressed...

The drivers seat doesn't move up and down like it should. I will pull the seat and check the linkages/motors and lube it all up good...

Thanks for a great place to get answers.

 

Quick question... when you had a FOB that was working; if you press lock twice or initiate the panic- did the horn work? I ask because I think the horn is told to honk and the steering wheel pad is not used.
Or you could lock all doors with a window down. Close doors and the alarm should be set. Wait a few seconds and unlock the driver door reaching in from outside and that should activate the horn/alarm (if set up that way via DIC options). I hope this helps. You can turn the alarm off by putting the key in driver's door and unlocking if FOB doesn't work too.
Oh and have you tried cleaning the contacts with an eraser to have the FOB operate as it should? There's no telling what the previous owner(s) did with it. Or check that there is spring tension holding the battery in properly. Battery should be a 2450(?) too.

 

The bad fob has broken battery contacts. They are broken off and missing. I may try to fab a new set for it.
On the Good fob:
The horn doesn't work in any situation .... fobs, panic, lock alert, or horn buttons, but the relay clicks correctly.
All of the passive functions work correctly too, BUT after a few days, it will have to be re-learned.... it is the FOB, as I borrowed one from a friend and it stayed married without issue.