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My options are, install the 7.4 rods from TSP or order 7.370 from Manton 11/32
Im sorry for all these question, tho i am looking up to you as your by far the most knowledgeable person i know of..
Think I would want larger OD pushrods in the final build. However, if you want to get it running you could button it up with the current pushrods and then swap them out later. Given the amount of flex with the TSP pushrods I wouldn't push the car too much until you get better ones in there. But at least you can get the car running while you wait, or if the season is short swap them over the winter.
One other thing to consider as well, the MS4 has a lot of lift and you will be pushing the capability of the stock rocker and it will be scrubbing the valve stem. So rather than upgrade the pushrods immediately, you may want to consider aftermarket rockers such as the Yella Terra, but they will likely require a different pushrod length so if you go that route only buy the larger OD pushrods once.
One thing I would do based on my reading of the MS4, is once the pushrods are installed turn the motor over by hand a couple of times to bleed down the lifters.
I ordered the puah rods..i will vet them next wednsday. Should i line up the timing marks befor.installing the cover and balancer..
Theres marks on the balancer... shou i line anything up for futur use?
Yes, to use the GM procedure I posted for rocker installation you need to know which cylinder is on the TDC firing stroke. There are two steps, the first has cylinder #1 at TDC firing stroke and then certain rockers are on the base circle and tightened. Then rotate one full turn and the remaining rockers are on the base circle.
I would line it up so that cylinder #1 is at TDC firing stroke.
Ok got it... what i meant was if i should line up any marks on the balancer in accordance to timing marks..
Also, for the fireing stroke... i just need to know what piston is on base circle?
You can mark the balancer to line up with the crank timing mark. Don't use the key as it is not at the 12 o'clock position.
For the firing stroke, if the timing cover is still off, line up the timing marks. To figure out the firing stroke, I put a pushrod in the intake lifter hole and watch for it to go up (intake opening) then keep rotating the crank until it starts going down to close the valve. Note, since the lifter will stay up, you will need to push on the pushrod to makes sure the lifter is following the cam. Once the intake closes you know you are within 1/2 turn of the crank to TDC of the firing stroke. So once the intake closes, bring the crank timing mark to the 12 o'clock position and the piston should be at TDC.
Got the push rods from Manton today. They are very nicely made.
TSP, Stock, Manton
I installed the rods and rockers with Redline assembly lube and followed the GM procedure Vettnuts posted in post #83.
No loctite on the rocker bolts, torqued to 22 ft-lb.
I then applied some black rtv sealant to bottom of the timing cover and a little in the corners of the oil pan gasket. Placed it on the block with new gasket along with the sac city alignment tool.
tightend all the bolts evenly and torqued to 18 ft-lb then removed the tool and used it to pop in the new crank snout/pulley seal.I did not put any oil on the seal.
I then applied some nickel anti-seize on the inside diameter of the balancer and placed it on the crank snout.
This is the simple tool I made to press on the balancer.Similar to Vettenuts, I just used a piece of shaft and drilled it instead of using a lot of washers.
I opted to use the Gm procedure then the one from ARP.
Here is the APR one for whoever is interested.
What I did was use the tool to press on the balancer. I was able to get 4.23 mm of crank recess.
I then put on the old bolt and torque to 250 ft-lb. Then took the ARP bolt and applied the arp compound to the underside of the bolt head and on the side of the washer mating to the balancer. Also put a few drops of medium locktight on the threads.
Torqued it down to 36 ft-lb, marked the head of the bolt at 9 o'clock and tried to get it at 2:30.
I'm a pretty strong dude, and I used a 3 foot long 3/4" ratchet and a 2 foot pipe and it was really flexing.I don't see how a regular sized GM tech could do that...
Was able to get it to around 120 degrees i think... by eye
After this torquing process, I achieve this much recess.
Last edited by Georgies; May 16, 2018 at 01:41 PM.
The GM bolt in the procedure is torque to yield. The ARP bolt is not torque to yield but is torque to a value provided in their specification. Put a torque wrench on it and make sure you have 235 lb-ft.
Also, the recess you are measuring is only for the stock balancer. Your aftermarket balancer may have a different value. You would have had to measure it prior to installation. However, if you followed the GM procedure for pressing it on and then torque with the old bolt it is on there fine. The measurement is a second verification that the balancer bottomed.
I went for sure way over...will it damage anything?
Hopefully not. Some have broke the ARP bolt by overtightening. I also used a 3/4" 3 foot torque wrench when I did mine and it still took some muscle, especially since there is not a good place to brace yourself. I would just leave it alone at this point.
Last edited by vettenuts; Aug 5, 2017 at 10:43 AM.
