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I recharged my AC system a few weeks back and used a UV dye to help locate the leak. I looked all over the system, and the only spot where I found the dye had come out was at the compressor itself. I can't get a good look at it, but it looks like it's coming off the back passenger side of the compressor. Having looked at a few diagrams, it looks like this is where the lines come in.
Access to fix this looks frankly...horrible. I want to go in prepared. I have a variety pack of AC o-rings, does anyone know what size this takes? Is there a way to even access the compressor without pulling the engine or something drastic?
I attached the best photo I could get. I believe I was looking up just behind the leaf spring. You can see the green dye on the back and bottom of the compressor.
Yeah, I read that was an issue with these. If you look at my photo, it looks like the leak is coming from behind the rear mounting point. It looks like there's a seam in the housing in front of that mounting point. Looking at photos of the compressors online, it looks like the only leak point that could get on that spot would be the tubes coming in and out.
At the rear of the compressor there is a Hose Manifold that is held on by one 13mm bolt. You will invent at least 2 new cuss words getting this bolt off. I used a craftsman 13mm ratchet wrench . See replay number 52 in this thread. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...rite-up-3.html
I replaced the seal in this manifold 11 months and 10,000 miles ago. My AC is still working great. I bought the seal from the local Chevy dealership for about $12.00 The instructions said not to oil the seal before installing it. I did not use oil on the seal. Of course you will have to pull a vacuum and replace the R134 refrigerant. I add 1 once of oil also. I would try replacing this seal before I replaced the compressor.
I have a 2001 corvette. I had the car on jack stands and the passenger frond tire off. The seal part number for my car was: GM 2723477 Air Conditioning Compressor and Condenser Hose Manifold Seal Kit
You sir are a hero. That's exactly the kind of info I needed. I would have been going in blind without the correct seal. My dad is a former AC tech, so he's got a vacuum pump I can use.
At the rear of the compressor there is a Hose Manifold that is held on by one 13mm bolt. You will invent at least 2 new cuss words getting this bolt off. I used a craftsman 13mm ratchet wrench . See replay number 52 in this thread. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...rite-up-3.html
I replaced the seal in this manifold 11 months and 10,000 miles ago. My AC is still working great. I bought the seal from the local Chevy dealership for about $12.00 The instructions said not to oil the seal before installing it. I did not use oil on the seal. Of course you will have to pull a vacuum and replace the R134 refrigerant. I add 1 once of oil also. I would try replacing this seal before I replaced the compressor.
I have a 2001 corvette. I had the car on jack stands and the passenger frond tire off. The seal part number for my car was: GM 2723477 Air Conditioning Compressor and Condenser Hose Manifold Seal Kit
Well I can't find that part number anywhere, nor a mention of any kit by that name for this specific vehicle.
Well I can't find that part number anywhere, nor a mention of any kit by that name for this specific vehicle.
You should be able to get the Orings at an auto parts store. Bring the old one & match up or I just quick checked @ NAPA for an 01 corvette & found a kit for ten bucks.
NAPA Temp Products
Comments: Kit contains Gaskets and O-Rings required for complete A/C System Repair
Per Car Qty: 1 TEM 801735
FWIW, the engine on this car has been out before, so I imagine the AC lines have been disconnected before. You'd think the previous owner would have replaced the seals when he reinstalled it, but that wouldn't be the first cut corner I've found on this car. The body has 120,000 miles on it. I could certainly see reused seals leaking at that point. Hopefully I'm right, because even just getting to the seals looks like a huge hassle.
Well, 80 years later, I've finally gotten around to replacing the seals. Access actually wasn't bad at all with the brakes out of the way. I just reached up there with a 1ft extension, a swivel socket, and a 13mm socket. Maybe clearances are different since I have aftermarket headers, but it was easy. Looking at the old seals, I'm guessing they were both reused after they replaced the engine AND over torqued. The torque spec I looked at was pretty low, and the seal were VERY flattened and squished out. I'll finish the job this weekend when I can get a hold of a vacuum pump and gauges.
Well, 80 years later, I've finally gotten around to replacing the seals. Access actually wasn't bad at all with the brakes out of the way. I just reached up there with a 1ft extension, a swivel socket, and a 13mm socket. Maybe clearances are different since I have aftermarket headers, but it was easy. Looking at the old seals, I'm guessing they were both reused after they replaced the engine AND over torqued. The torque spec I looked at was pretty low, and the seal were VERY flattened and squished out. I'll finish the job this weekend when I can get a hold of a vacuum pump and gauges.
Here's a comparison shot of the new vs old seals.
Should you later find that you have the compressor seam leak, the task of replacing it is really not so difficult. Access can be gained by removing the water pump. When I replaced mine I also learned that the compressor belt tensioner required replacement.
Finished the job this weekend. Borrow a gauge kit from my dad's work, vacuumed the system out, and tested that it held vacuum for 25 minutes. Added the requires dose of R134, and for the first time since I've owned this car, it's blowing COLD. I'm in love. Can't believe I suffered through 2 hot summers when the job wasn't even a big deal.
Wanted to give a a bump to this thread and the info posted by @twostepdon and @jrp1588
had an obvious leak from the rear of the compressor. One shop told me I needed a new compressor and condenser for $1800.
later came across this thread. Two o-rings were about $10 and a friend replaced them in about 15 minutes. I’ll post some follow up in a few months but as of a now no more leak. I’ve learned that this type of compressor leak is very very common.
Wanted to give a a bump to this thread and the info posted by @twostepdon and @jrp1588
had an obvious leak from the rear of the compressor. One shop told me I needed a new compressor and condenser for $1800.
later came across this thread. Two o-rings were about $10 and a friend replaced them in about 15 minutes. I’ll post some follow up in a few months but as of a now no more leak. I’ve learned that this type of compressor leak is very very common.
I guess I forgot to update the thread. I think I let the system stay in this unsealed state too long. The AC worked for about a week, then the compressor took a ****. There was almost no difference in pressure between the high and low side while it was running. I ended up replacing the compressor, condenser, dryer, and orifice tube. It still wasn't THAT bad of a DIY job.
I guess I forgot to update the thread. I think I let the system stay in this unsealed state too long. The AC worked for about a week, then the compressor took a ****. There was almost no difference in pressure between the high and low side while it was running. I ended up replacing the compressor, condenser, dryer, and orifice tube. It still wasn't THAT bad of a DIY job.
oh wow! That’s interesting. Maybe you had something else going on. This fix seems to be working great for me so far.
oh wow! That’s interesting. Maybe you had something else going on. This fix seems to be working great for me so far.
I left the system "open" like this for like 2 years. I'm guessing the oil got acidic and contaminated with moisture. Oh, also, my air dryer desiccant media burst. My orifice tube screens were 1000% blocked.
Oh well, now I know how to do it. I plan to fix the AC on my beater truck this spring. Luckily the compressor on this thing is at the top of the engine, not tucked at the bottom, requiring the water pump to be removed. I wonder how much easier the job would have been if I had coilovers, and did away with the transverse leaf. Access to the bottom accessories would be SO MUCH BETTER.
AC Leak at Compressor
