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My '02 C5 has an intermittent problem when starting. In recent weeks my shop has put in a new alternator, 2 new batteries, and a new ignition cylinder (breaking the bezel in the process). When it decides not to cooperate, everything looks good until I try to turn the engine on. Then, nothing happens--randomly. No starter clicks, etc. I've learned at that point to check the voltage and it is always in the 11.5 range (typically, it's at 14 or 14.1 on the road). Apparently, the computer does not want to start the engine when it's being told the voltage is below 12 or so. Jump starting will not do it. A driver from AAA told me to let it sit a while and it'll eventually start. This seems to be true; today, it started after about 90 minutes. Has anyone else faced this? If so, what was the remedy? Thanks for your help and suggestions!!
Greg_E mentioned a possible "parasitic drain on the battery...." I can't find his reply but the CF e-mail quotes him. Anyway...would a cell-phone charger be sufficient to cause a parasitic drain?
Your detailed suggestions are very helpful and I'll be sharing them with the shop. I also followed your advice and looked further into the "No Crank" thread. I'll know more early next week. Thanks again!
Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
A cell phone charger could cause a drain but the battery would have to be pretty weak to not be able to with stand that small a drain.
Suggest that you measure the battery voltage across the battery posts with the NEG battery cable disconnected using a digital multi meter. As my above posts states, a good battery at full charge should measure 12.7 to 12.9 volts or more. If it were to measure say as low as 11.9 for example then there is some issue going on that may not be the starter solenoid sticking......
Just curious, why do you need to disconnect the NEG battery cable? Thanks.
If you are trying to check the state of battery health looking for that designed 12.7 to 12.9 volts, you would need to do it with an UNLOADED BATTERY.
Remember, your electrical system ALWAYS puts a load on the battery. Even when its shutdown/turned off. If you have the hood open (under hood light on), the loaded output of the battery will be lower than 12.7 to 12.9 volts and you may think that the battery is having an issue.
While the battery is disconnected, conduct the parasitic battery drain test to see if yours is NORMAL or if you have something that is drawing excessive current.
If you are trying to check the state of battery health looking for that designed 12.7 to 12.9 volts, you would need to do it with an UNLOADED BATTERY.
Remember, your electrical system ALWAYS puts a load on the battery. Even when its shutdown/turned off. If you have the hood open (under hood light on), the loaded output of the battery will be lower than 12.7 to 12.9 volts and you may think that the battery is having an issue.
While the battery is disconnected, conduct the parasitic battery drain test to see if yours is NORMAL or if you have something that is drawing excessive current.
Bill
So if I have a parasitic draw (but don't know) and I have just disconnected the battery and it shows less than 12.7, how do I know if it's the battery that's going bad or a parasitic draw?
So if I have a parasitic draw (but don't know) and I have just disconnected the battery and it shows less than 12.7, how do I know if it's the battery that's going bad or a parasitic draw?
ALL C5 have a standard as designed 20-30 MILLIAMP draw. If your battery is draining prematurely you have a couple things to do:
1. Take the fully charged battery to an autoparts store and have them conduct the following test on that battery
Cold Cranking Amp Test, & Reserve Capacity Test if the battery passes all the test, its good. They can aso test your charging system to see if it is functioning properly.
2. Conduct the current draw test on your electrical system. You need to do this with a Multimeter that can measure 10 AMPS. Insert the leads of the amp meter BETWEEN the NEGATIVE battery terminal and the NEGATIVE Battery cable. When the circuit is complete the BCM will shed loads and settle in on the SLEEP CURRENT. Can take as long as 10-12 min depending on state of the car Doors open, hood lamp ON etc.......
Thanks. So for current draw test, you would put one end of multimeter on negative battery terminal and other end on negative cable where it attaches to chassis to have a clean contact?
Thanks. So for current draw test, you would put one end of multimeter on negative battery terminal and other end on negative cable where it attaches to chassis to have a clean contact?
Sounds like the starter to me. I had a similar problem where randomly my car wouldn't crank, had my starter rebuilt with a new solenoid and haven't had a problem since.