Clutch grinding when released
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix Arizona
Clutch grinding when released
UPDATE: got a quote for a LS7 clutch kit replacement (clutch, bearings, slave, flywheel, remote bleeder) for 1600 including labor? Fair price?
99 FRC all of a sudden today I'm getting this problem.
When starting out from a stop (in first or second) I get a grinding sound and vibration in the shifter and clutch pedal. The noise goes away once the clutch is released all the way and stays away. When driving arround I notice no noise unless I shift and the RPMs aren't matched close- then I feel/hear a grinding in the shifter.
Also when stopped if I press the clutch in neutral then rev and try and shift into gear it pulls forward a little.
Throw out bearing failure? Clutch grenade? Flywheel issues? Some sort of spring failure? I hope it's not a transmission issue.
I'm not driving anymore for now.
99 FRC all of a sudden today I'm getting this problem.
When starting out from a stop (in first or second) I get a grinding sound and vibration in the shifter and clutch pedal. The noise goes away once the clutch is released all the way and stays away. When driving arround I notice no noise unless I shift and the RPMs aren't matched close- then I feel/hear a grinding in the shifter.
Also when stopped if I press the clutch in neutral then rev and try and shift into gear it pulls forward a little.
Throw out bearing failure? Clutch grenade? Flywheel issues? Some sort of spring failure? I hope it's not a transmission issue.
I'm not driving anymore for now.
Last edited by Forgetful; Aug 7, 2017 at 01:32 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
FACT 1: You have a CLUTCH ISSUE.
FACT 2: The longer you drive it in this condition, the more transmission damage you are doing.
If your car creeps forward, your clutch is not fully disengaging between shifts and damaging your synchros.
Recommendation:
You have noise so,, you have some sort of mechanical damage to the Throwout Brg/Pilot Brg and or BOTH.
Put the car down and make plans to replace the following:
Clutch
Throwout Brg
Pressure plate
Slave Cylinder
PILOT BEARING
Master cylinder
Add a quality remote bleeder.
You can TRY to properly bleed the clutch hydraulics BUT,, with mechnical noise, SOMETHING is damaged and needs to be addessed before it causes more damage.
How many miles do you have on this clutch???? Is it stock OEM and do you hve any MODs??
Bill
FACT 2: The longer you drive it in this condition, the more transmission damage you are doing.
If your car creeps forward, your clutch is not fully disengaging between shifts and damaging your synchros.
Recommendation:
You have noise so,, you have some sort of mechanical damage to the Throwout Brg/Pilot Brg and or BOTH.
Put the car down and make plans to replace the following:
Clutch
Throwout Brg
Pressure plate
Slave Cylinder
PILOT BEARING
Master cylinder
Add a quality remote bleeder.
You can TRY to properly bleed the clutch hydraulics BUT,, with mechnical noise, SOMETHING is damaged and needs to be addessed before it causes more damage.
How many miles do you have on this clutch???? Is it stock OEM and do you hve any MODs??
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Aug 6, 2017 at 01:19 AM.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix Arizona
FACT 1: You have a CLUTCH ISSUE.
FACT 2: The longer you drive it in this condition, the more transmission damage you are doing.
If your car creeps forward, your clutch is not fully disengaging between shifts and damaging your synchros.
Recommendation:
You have noise so,, you have some sort of mechanical damage to the Throwout Brg/Pilot Brg and or BOTH.
Put the car down and make plans to replace the following:
Clutch
Throwout Brg
Pressure plate
Slave Cylinder
PILOT BEARING
Master cylinder
Add a quality remote bleeder.
You can TRY to properly bleed the clutch hydraulics BUT,, with mechnical noise, SOMETHING is damaged and needs to be addessed before it causes more damage.
How many miles do you have on this clutch???? Is it stock OEM and do you hve any MODs??
Bill
FACT 2: The longer you drive it in this condition, the more transmission damage you are doing.
If your car creeps forward, your clutch is not fully disengaging between shifts and damaging your synchros.
Recommendation:
You have noise so,, you have some sort of mechanical damage to the Throwout Brg/Pilot Brg and or BOTH.
Put the car down and make plans to replace the following:
Clutch
Throwout Brg
Pressure plate
Slave Cylinder
PILOT BEARING
Master cylinder
Add a quality remote bleeder.
You can TRY to properly bleed the clutch hydraulics BUT,, with mechnical noise, SOMETHING is damaged and needs to be addessed before it causes more damage.
How many miles do you have on this clutch???? Is it stock OEM and do you hve any MODs??
Bill
Thanks it definitely is grounded for the moment.
I bought the car at 92k and it's 94k now, I suspect all OEM clutch parts. Car is all stock. The suddenness is what freaks me out. Yesterday the car was 100%, I ranger changed the clutch fluid when I got it.
.
After digging this thread sounds real similar.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5-tech/4006227-clutch-release-grinding-scraping-rattling-please-help-me.html
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix Arizona
UPDATE: got a quote for a LS7 clutch kit replacement (clutch, bearings, slave, flywheel, remote bleeder) for 1600 including labor? Fair price?
Last edited by Forgetful; Aug 7, 2017 at 01:33 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Is the shop familiar with ALL OF THE "QUIRKS" that need to be known to properly install a clutch in a C5??? This is not a F Body clutch type swap..
Do they examine the clutch, pressure plate/flywheel balance and correct if required?
Do the check and correct the CRITICAL clutch disk to press plate air gap and correct with a SHIM if needed??
You have an early LS1 with the smaller TT and smaller TT Bushings. EVERY and I mean EVERY early TT that I have inspected has had seriously deteriorated (ready to POP) rubber couplers. I would ALSO examine the TT bearings and be ready to have that replaced also if required.
If it were MY C5, I would replace the clutch MASTER CYLINDER also.
While the drive train is out (and it will be out) have you considered replacing the differential output shaft seals as they will most likely leak soon after if they are not already leaking/weeping.
I would HATE for you to have to redo any of this when the opportunity exists to take care of it once and for all now.
Bill
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix Arizona
To bring this to a close...
Pilot bearing was bad, springs on clutch were wearing the metal around their holding locations and causing a lot of the marbles in a can noise the car had. Clutch had decent material left but oh well. Fingers on pressure plate looked sad.
Replaced the rubber couplers in the torque tube since they were very cracked as Bill said.
Pilot bearing was bad, springs on clutch were wearing the metal around their holding locations and causing a lot of the marbles in a can noise the car had. Clutch had decent material left but oh well. Fingers on pressure plate looked sad.
Replaced the rubber couplers in the torque tube since they were very cracked as Bill said.
