I have a '98 that is drawing about 300 milliamps after about 12 minutes and the BCM is asleep. I metered it with a volt/amp meter and disconnecting the negative battery terminal.

Car has a double din mods touchscreen installed as per Dennis' instructions, and I even cut the wires off for some of this testing to verify it isn't the issue. Bose is disabled and bose fuse is removed.

Car has an aftermarket remote starter/keyless entry/alarm that was on it when I bought it. I have no idea how it is installed, and if it turns out to be the issue I will just continue to use a battery maintainer and battery disconnect as I don't want to get into the vats issues by messing with it.

So, I pulled all the fuses in the underhood fuse box and virtually no changes. In the passenger footwell fuse box, when I pull the IGN-2 60 amp maxifuse I lose 70 to 100 ma. I put the fuse back in, unplugged both plugs from the ignition switch and let it go back to sleep. Was back up to 300 ma, so I know the ignition switch isn't the problem. Pulling the IGN-1 fuse makes no change.

When I pull the HVACCON (fuse 27) I drop about 50 ma. I unplugged the HVAC temp controller, the fan motor and the fan control module. Let it go back to sleep, back up to 300 ma, so none of them are the problem.

When I pull the RDO/CD (fuse 5) I drop about 50 ma. Radio completely disconnected or connected, no difference really. CD player is uninstalled, unplugged and plug is still in the trunk. One thing of note, when fuse 5 is pulled the car will start and run fine, but when I put the ignition switch in the ACC position there is nothing, just like it is in the off position.

So, I would like to lower my parastitic drain as much as possible but do not want to get into dealing with the aftermarket remote start if that turns out to be the problem. BCM doesn't appear to have ever gotten wet but who knows for sure.

1. What all is on the IGN-2 fuse?

2. What could cause the HVACCON circuit to draw other than the 3 things I ruled out?

3. What all is on the RDO/CD fuse? Is it normal for the ACC key position to be dead with this fuse uninstalled? If not, any ideas?

 

Should add, none of the other fuses made much difference. Unplugging the headlight control module and unplugging the plugs under each seat made no difference.

 

Get the aftermarket crap remote start out of there. That is where most of your problem is. Get your self the wiring diagrams and put it back to factory condition.

The issue is going to be the crappy install done by what ever stereo shop installed it. I have pulled out work done by supposed professional shops that were so bad that I was surprised any thing was working.

Gary

 

If I unplug the aftermarket remote start/alarm box up under the dash, then buy a factory '98 key fob and program it to the car, will that work for me to still have keyless entry? Anything else I would need to do?

Im wanting to avoid cutting and splicing wiring and ending up with a car that won't start but still get rid of a lot of the battery drain.

I'm assuming my stock vats is bypassed because my aftermarket remote start does work, but I would just as soon leave it bypassed.

 

I'm fixed! After 3 long hard nights, I found that some retard direct wired the bose amp. The fuse was pulled, but it was still getting power all the time. I'm assuming it was bleeding power into other circuits or keeping some of the BCM awake causing power leaks on several circuits. I cut that wire off, unplugged all the wires from the aftermarket remote start/alarm system, and I have a draw of 24 to 25 milliamps.

I plugged the remote starter back in, waited for it to start snoring again, and the milliamps sit pretty steady at 37 to 38.

I'm thinking less than 40 with a remote start and working alarm isn't bad.

 

GOOD JOB my friend!!

I could live with that current draw!