Got back from Laguna Seca and parked the car, three days later the Optima Redtop was dead, dead dead, not even interior lights. Replaced the battery and three days later the same thing.

While I recharged the new Redtop
battery, I did some research, discovering Bill Curlee's post:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1567522286

So I first pulled both seat relays and removed the big red wire from the alternator, then set up the test circuit pretty much as described by Bill.

The battery positive cable is connected to the battery positive terminal, the circuit then goes from the battery negative terminal to my $10 multimeter set on 10 amp scale, to ground.

A couple of minor changes- my circuit included a fuse holder with 10 amp fuse in case I screwed up, and instead of grounding to the battery negative CABLE, I grounded to the back of a bolt holding the belt tensioner to the water pump.

Connected as noted above, the amperage started out at about 2.5 and a minute or two later dropped to 1.16 amps. 20 minutes later, 0.02 amps, just as Bill has described.

I was quite happy because I now knew that the problem is either the seats or the alternator.

A test of the alternator showed it would not flow current through the diodes, so it is the seats, probably the driver's side.

Thanks, Bill!

Now I have to figure out what is wrong with the seat(s).

I will do some research on that.

Note that the Optima Redtop charged just fine with my ancient Sears charger even though the battery was below 7 volts at the start of charging. I did have to stop and let the charger cool a couple of times until battery voltage climbed above 10 V and charge amperage dropped below 15 amps.

 

nice write up good luck.

 

Its usually the seat position SWITCH. Sometimes it doesnt properly center to OFF and or theres a DIODE inside the switch that blows or shorts and causes the motors to drive.

Turn your easy entry OFF and make sure that the seat isnt in one of the stops and see if it still tries to drive in some direction.

The seat motors use a self resetting thermal over load breaker (in the passengers foot well fues box_) to protect the motors. If it drives into the stops, it will trip the breaker and when it cools down drive and trip until the battery is dead.

The LUMBAR pump can also cause a dead battery. If the bladder or pump tubing is bad, the pump will run and run and run!

 

OK, Thanks, Bill.

I just checked both seats and was surprised to find that with the seat relays pulled, the lumbar pumps and side pumps still work and all seems well with them.

No fore and aft adjustments with the relays pulled.

Both seats feel like they are in the same fore/ aft position as always.

In the past when unlocking with the fob, the driver side almost always stayed in position, but once in a while has exhibited some strange behavior, going full aft, or going to a different position than what I thought was in memory.

I have not yet checked easy entry, but I am thinking that since the driver seat has almost always stayed in position when unlocking with the fob, it is off. I will check.

Since the seats did not move it is starting to look like the seat position switch might have an internal power leak. Any idea how to diagnose further, or based upon the above, just replace if available?

Jim

 

Several options:

The switch can be disassembled and you can inspect the board and the switch operating assy

You can get that switch rebuilt. Some one offers that service

You can get a good used one from VETTENUTS (Marc)

Move your switch **** to all the positions and see if it properly CENTERS its self back to the center OFF position.

Bill

 

Thanks, I have found several sources for both new and to rebuild the switch.

When I get time I will pull it and examine it.

In the meanwhile I am happy that the car is drivable.

Jim