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Lifter tap - cam swap - would you?

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Old Sep 28, 2017 | 08:12 PM
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Default Lifter tap - cam swap - would you?

I've posted a few times about a lifter tap I have on a cold start that goes away once warm, general consensus was that it's a lifter bleeding down. I want to do a cam swap sometime this winter, along with springs, pushrods and trunnions. My question is would you guys do a cam swap with this lifter tick going on or hold off on the cam and swap lifters first? Of course I would like to do it all at once but that's just not in the budget. I won't be doing the work so I have to account for labor costs on top of parts If the tapping did not go away I wouldn't even consider a cam until it was addressed but once the motor is warm it purs just fine. I really didn't/don't plan on swapping lifters unless I have to, but if you guys think it would be unwise to upgrade cams with a ticking motor I will hold off. The cam that I am looking at is a TSP 228r 112lsa. Weekend car no track time. Just enjoy aggressive street driving and occasional road trips.
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Old Sep 28, 2017 | 10:16 PM
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Are you sure it's a lifter bleeding down? It's very common for LS1 engines to have a ticking sound when cold. It's often piston slap caused by a combination of the aluminum engine and the hypereutectic pistons. However, there have been instances of ring problems causing a ticking or slapping noise in the engine, too. If your engine uses much oil this could be the issue. There have been a couple of GM Tech Service Bulletins about this (probably more than these), but check:
#01-06-01-023 Higher Than Expected Oil Consumption (Replace Rings) 1999-2001 Chevrolet Corvette;
#02-06-01-038 (12/02/2002) Engine Knock or Lifter Noise (Replace O-Ring) 2001-2003 Chevrolet Corvette
(Note: These bulletins covered other GM vehicles, but I tried to list the affected model years of Corvettes).
Hopefully, it's just the piston slap at start up. If so, I'd be comfortable with the cam swap. If it is a lifter bleed down issue, I'd wait until I could afford to change lifters with the cam.
Good luck.

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Old Sep 29, 2017 | 02:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Route99
Are you sure it's a lifter bleeding down? It's very common for LS1 engines to have a ticking sound when cold. It's often piston slap caused by a combination of the aluminum engine and the hypereutectic pistons. However, there have been instances of ring problems causing a ticking or slapping noise in the engine, too. If your engine uses much oil this could be the issue. There have been a couple of GM Tech Service Bulletins about this (probably more than these), but check:
#01-06-01-023 Higher Than Expected Oil Consumption (Replace Rings) 1999-2001 Chevrolet Corvette;
#02-06-01-038 (12/02/2002) Engine Knock or Lifter Noise (Replace O-Ring) 2001-2003 Chevrolet Corvette
(Note: These bulletins covered other GM vehicles, but I tried to list the affected model years of Corvettes).
Hopefully, it's just the piston slap at start up. If so, I'd be comfortable with the cam swap. If it is a lifter bleed down issue, I'd wait until I could afford to change lifters with the cam.
Good luck.

Not certain it's a lifter bleeding down but I believe that's most likely what it is. I have owned two other ls1 cars prior to my vette, plus a 5.3, so I'm familiar with piston slap and this is def not it. As far as the oil oil pick up o-ring that is always a possibility, however in that case the ticking supposedly doesn't go away. Actually it's supposed to get louder when warmed up. Mine disappears once warm, so I doubt that's what it is.
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Old Sep 29, 2017 | 07:13 AM
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How much preload are you running?

I had an issue with my Morels several years ago. Went with a lighter preload (0.030") and it would lifter tick on cold start every time. After a few minutes it would go away. During my last H/C swap, I increased the preload to 0.050" (noting again this is a Morel lifter) and now it is as quiet as a mouse even after being in storage over the winter for six months I get zero lifter tick on cold start.
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Old Sep 29, 2017 | 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
How much preload are you running?

I had an issue with my Morels several years ago. Went with a lighter preload (0.030") and it would lifter tick on cold start every time. After a few minutes it would go away. During my last H/C swap, I increased the preload to 0.050" (noting again this is a Morel lifter) and now it is as quiet as a mouse even after being in storage over the winter for six months I get zero lifter tick on cold start.
I don't know, I don't have the tools to check. Everything in the motor is bone stock other than swapping yellow springs for the blue springs
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Old Sep 29, 2017 | 09:23 AM
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Sorry, Brandon. Didn't pay attention to your having been here 6 years - it should have been obvious to me you were familiar with piston slap.
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Old Sep 29, 2017 | 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
How much preload are you running?

I had an issue with my Morels several years ago. Went with a lighter preload (0.030") and it would lifter tick on cold start every time. After a few minutes it would go away. During my last H/C swap, I increased the preload to 0.050" (noting again this is a Morel lifter) and now it is as quiet as a mouse even after being in storage over the winter for six months I get zero lifter tick on cold start.


100% agree.. If you have or suspect a lifter issue, plan on upgrading or at least replacing the old lifters with something NEW.

Old OEM GM lifters often have bleed down problems when subjected to higher lifts, longer durations and higher spring pressures.
Skip a few nights out on the town and save for better lifters.

Bill
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Old Sep 29, 2017 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Route99
Sorry, Brandon. Didn't pay attention to your having been here 6 years - it should have been obvious to me you were familiar with piston slap.
No problem at all, I appreciate your input.
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Old Sep 29, 2017 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
100% agree.. If you have or suspect a lifter issue, plan on upgrading or at least replacing the old lifters with something NEW.

Old OEM GM lifters often have bleed down problems when subjected to higher lifts, longer durations and higher spring pressures.
Skip a few nights out on the town and save for better lifters.

Bill
Lol Yeah I agree I need to cut back the spending. The blue GM springs I had put in about 5 years ago were supposed to have the same spring pressure as the yellows they replaced but maybe they weren' t exactly the same.... or maybe just being newer they had more pressure and eventually caused one of the lifters to start bleeding down. As far as new lifters, would GM ls7 lifters be the better choice?
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Old Sep 29, 2017 | 12:27 PM
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lifter tick seems synonymous wiht a number of LSx engines.
Have a 5.3 (02 vintage) had since new has done it
Going to dino oil really quited things down. Even flat tappet lifters can tick some...unless its alarmingly bad drive it.
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Old Sep 29, 2017 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
lifter tick seems synonymous wiht a number of LSx engines.
Have a 5.3 (02 vintage) had since new has done it
Going to dino oil really quited things down. Even flat tappet lifters can tick some...unless its alarmingly bad drive it.
Yeah I've noticed. Some say their LS motor ticked from day one and then I've heard of some people developing a tick/tap/knock and changing out lifters with the sound never going away. Thats one thing I am concerned about is spending all that money on new lifters and the tap never going away. I believe that's been the case for several ppl
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Old Sep 30, 2017 | 02:09 AM
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Wouldn't make sense to change the lifters later.
Do it with the H/C work.
Since you're paying a shop to do it, you'll be paying twice for the work. They'll probably take of the heads anyway when changing springs.
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Old Sep 30, 2017 | 06:53 AM
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Didn't understand you were still stock, thought you had a cam. I think I would also try a different oil as well. The latest version of the Mobil-1 0W40 is barely a 40W oil and might be worth a try in the meantime until you decide to dig into the lifters.
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